lt1bird

I dont think it will tap in too easy..... it does not want to go in a little. I have 2 keys...one stock, one aftermarket..they both do not fit...

I have a stroker crank, went to put the flywheel on and the flywheel key does not fit the crank. The key is 5mm wide and the crank keyway is about 4.98mm wide... this is not supose to be a press fit correct..... What should I do? I could probably sand the key down a bit but is this BS common?? Thanks

funny, i bought one of those stands on ebay....tried to use it but it go in the way more than helped LOL.... no stand needed. Just put a towel down on the work bench...this will help keep it from moving to much....

trinity said I do not need them... with that said....I would feel better with them on there I dont know how well the "acorn nuts" will seal without the copper washers. Im gonna put them on anyway....

Im looking for the base advance for the banshee engine. I know the advance at idle is 17 dergees stock... but the CDI moves it to 17....what would it be if the CDI did not move it. I have a programable ignition and it needs the base advance(mechanical sepration from the trigger and the lobe on the flywheel from top dead center. I dont want to put my degree wheel on it if someone knows the answer Thanks!

do you use copper washers on the trinity cub head? It comes with acorn nuts but no copper wahsers. Those acorn nuts seal that good??? my cool head came with copper washers and acorn nuts...

I actually have a dyna ignition as well....bought it on a killer deal on ebay.... The ignitech is already wired in....very simple....but the one I have uses a 12V battery as well as I have a charging system like the RZ.....has all those same feetures.... limter, outputs, fully configurable....very small in size... I re-wired my whole bike with a new harness I made..... Great idea about asking dyna....im sure they might know what it is?

seven degrees will be to much for me....93 octane fuel.... I plan on running 0 degrees at the plate and make all the adjustments in the program....Probably will start with the stock curve. Im running a ignitech ignition. Like the dyna but supose to more acurate with more options etc....... pretty simple to program as well, just hook my laptor direct to it...dont need another $100 cable like the dyna..... I wonder what the base timing is on the banshee? I know at idle its supose to show 17 degrees .... but the CDI is doing most of that.... anyone every see that number? Im my software it has a place for base timing.... Guess I could find TDC and see where the pickup is at....

so cure 3 is what your using? do you have the programmable dyna??

SO heat the wrench with a torch and bend it?

Yup, machined some of the block and a tad on the plate to get a bit more adjusment. All fits perfect now

I have a 535 PV engine....no porting....pump gas 93 octane....38mm carbs...big bore pipes with 1" outlet for street use....compression should be about 165psi (ill verify once the head is on) Whats a safe timing curve....I see one from the dynatek webpage for the banshee...stock one seems to be Degrees @ RPM 17 0-2k 21 2-3.5k 20 5k 19 6k 17 7k 16 8k 14 9k 12.5 10-12k this is labeled stock. The modified curves seem to shift the timing +4 degrees.....from 3.5k to 12k rpms. Anyone have a better curve for basic street riding.... I have a programmable ignition so can make it anything i want....

will do.....

Cant say it's a big problem.....Just looking at it im saying i want one better....Dont like the Boss one.... Guess if i had a wrench that was 90 degrees on the end to fit in there. Im not sure how it can be done with the lockup in place using the Boss pusher??? Doesnt look like that cascade sticks out to much either...... doesnt anyone make a longer one that extends out made for lockup clutch setups?

Who makes a long clutch pusher.....I have a lockup clutch on the end....the boss pusher cannot be adjusted as the shaft is very short....more for a stock cutch setup... Where to buy the longer pusher as well..... Thanks!!!

Just figured it out....yes you use the stock nut with stock adjuster stud and put everything in from behind. make sure the part with the flats "longer shaft section" sticks out of the pressure plate. this will allow you to grab ahold of the shaft to tighten the nut... I had mine backwards....figured it was something simple.....

pusher this is the one i have

I have the clutch assembly on etc...went to adjust it and noticed that the lock nut does not lock LOL. Just spins....recalled in one of my late night work sessions that the pusher did seem odd as it seem to be lacking a feature to lock into the pressure plate etc.... I have the shop manual....stock one is simple to adjust....

Its got a few flats on one end....looks like the wrench would go on that but it does not stick out enough to put a wrench on it??? made by BOSS....came with no instructions....With the cost of a piece of paper.....WTF.....

Im trying to adjust it. How do you adjust it? The whole assembly seems to spin freely...I do not think there is anything holding it from behind..... Please dont tell me that you need to adjust it before you put the pressure plate on...... The stock one has nut that sits in the pocket on the pressure plate...this keeps it from spinning... any words of wizdom? Ive got it all put in from the back...nothing sticking through the front except the adjuster stud...and the lock nut... Thanks!

Ok, talked with mattoon. They leave this chunk of aluminum in that location so folks can machine the cases for big bore kits, this way you do not have to weld the cases for the bigger cylinders......They said to machine the case a bit or machine the timing plate.....Just an FYI...

Why do they put them in? Just for the casting process? Ya, mine were not tapped to deep...caused me some pain....

It was supose to be a regular case.....I put the ignition in last night...It does acutually fit.... There is a potrusion from the case that does not let the stator sit all the way down into the slots. Im thinking the potrusions are for setting up the proper distance. It seems to fit ok now but still seems a bit wierd the way they made it. Ill call them to confirm....

You will need to grind down the heads on the plugs just a tad before you install them. Just did this on mine. Test fit them without sealer first..... Without grinding the plugs will stick past seal surface!!! Optionally I guess I could have tapped the holes just a tad deeper...your choice... use a streight edge to check that they are counter sunk.

Im from the school of learn and do it yourself.....I understand where your coming from I dont think the build has been bad at all.....Just taking my time on my winter project.... Yes, bought all the parts from folks refrenced from here on the board.....RDZ, Trinity etc.... The folks who answer the phones.... They all have been top notch folks..... Many folks on the board have had lots of tricks and opinoins..... Great Board..... I will still have many more questions as I continue this build.....I still have carb and ignition questions.... I already have many answers on my own, just nice to bounce them off other members