lt1bird

I just looked and thier webpage is up and running again. I have thier phone number now....Thanks

Stock one does not fit as well. Looks like the boss's that stick out on the bottom of the plate are not tall enough to clear a few points on the side case........ The billet timing plates look like they have longer bosses.....Wonder if that would work. I do not want to grind the cases to make the plate fit flat......

Why does a stock or RM stator plate not fit the matoon engine case?? It will not sit flush.....Im sure I could put a few washers behind the stator plate to move it out a bit but there must be a better answer......????

Why does a stock or RM stator not fit the matoon engine case?? It will not sit flush.....Im sure I could put a washer behind the stator plate to move it out a bit but there must be a better answer......????

Think ill run a bead in between the primary gear and the water pump gear....it will get trapped in there from the gear anyway...this way it will seal but still come off easy

So some folks do and some do not....Hmmmmmmmm

Anyone run sealer on the primary gear? I hear that a super thin coat on the inside of the primary gear shaft....this will help seal up any possable leaks from the crankcase...sucking tranny fluid in...

I agree.....seems to make sense if the beraings are pinched a bit that the crank would be a bit tighter.....Like I said....about 20% tighter.....Still spins smooth, just not like super easy with no torque...... So you found the same thing.....you just did yours as well???

Well, I pulled the gear, loosedend the bolts and tested......it spins fine....Torqued the bolts.....spins fine....final torque and it spins a bit tighter...... Trinity tech guy says its normal for the crank to tighten up a bit when torqued in place. He said it should still spin free and not bind etc..... Is this what most folks find? It will tighten up a bit when the bolts are torqued.......it gets about 20% more difficult to spin after torqued....... can anyone confirm this?

Ill pull the primary gear off....this will eliminate the seal tension.... Im sure its just the oil seal....

Forgot to mention I do have the primary gear on..... that oil seal is very tight! Think I should pull it off and then see how it spins? Seems like putting the primary gear on was a bitch.....Did not seem to want to go on easy unless i wiggled it on before assembly...

It has no pins.....just O-Rings hold the crank...... aftermarket crank.... Dowels are fine..... I can turn the crank by hand using the rods....I think it seems a bit harder beacuse now that the case top is on, it restricts how far the rods can move back and fourth....you have less angle to push the rods....kinda hard to explain... I think the oil seals make it a bit harder to spin? It's not like im grunting to turn it... It just does not spin super easy like without the oil seals......

Ok, got the two haves together, glued etc........ Tranny spins perfect. How easy should the crank spin? With no oil seals and just the crank assembly sitting in the bottom half...it spun super easy. with the oil seals on the crank and fully torqued down it spins harder.....Still spins by hand...no binding or wierd feelings..... I seem a bit paranoid about how easy it should spin.... I can turn the crank by hand with the primary gear....no isses.....Just cant remember how hard it was to spin before the glue/torque was done..... Does not spin as easy as the tranny...... Anyone got an opionion?

Ok, got the two haves together, glued etc........ Tranny spins perfect. How easy should the crank spin? With no oil seals and just the crank assembly sitting in the bottom half...it spun super easy. with the oil seals on the crank and fully torqued down it spins harder.....Still spins by hand...no binding or wierd feelings..... I seem a bit paranoid about how easy it should spin.... I can turn the crank by hand with the primary gear....no isses.....Just cant remember how hard it was to spin before the glue/torque was done..... Does not spin as easy as the tranny...... Anyone got an opionion?

your saying your have 2.36 streight cut gears and they do not hit the plastic gear shaft???? You sure they are 2.36..... You might want to check and see if you have some platic in the bottom of your engine Ill snap a picture...

The 2.36 streight cut gears are larger than the stock ones..... beacuse its a bit larger it hits the water pump gear collar.....I turned it down so the gears will now clear. my buddy gave me the "Oh ya..... forgot you needed to do that" line.....LOL.... He built the same engine.... Thanks!

Exactly! I am turing down the plastic gear a bit....Remove the big washer....Put a little one in front of the e-clip so the eclip will not get caught in the hole.....Going to make sure the alignment is good on the gears.... I bet your running a smaller gear than the 2.36....if it were a bit smaller I would not have to relieve the case or turn down the water pump gear.... Oh well....

nice write-up.......Good hint on some of those things...

got the billet basket and gears from rdz......nice guys...

exactly! Thats what I see..... there is a very tiny little diffrence in the thickness of the outer seal ring on one side vs the other..... Those little metal indentations.......yes.....wonder in or out.....probabaly does not matter.... How about cir clips on the crank....looks like I could use 2 on each bearing but the manual only shows one per bearing etc....

I took a good look at it......Looks like the white gear will need to be machines down on the shoulder....about .06" also need to machine the case a tad so the primary gear does not hit the case....its only a smidge...... also need to trim the side cover a bit as the big stiffener inside hits the gear a bit.....Also a new washer at the end of the water pump shaft. The stock large washer will hit the gear. The washer will be moved to the other side of the circlip up against the engne case as a spacer to keep the plastic water pump gear in the correct location. I guess It cant be billet......beacuse the primary gear would eat that up Anyone have this issue before beacuse of the larger diameter primary gear?

it has srpings on both sides......both sides look exacly the same except one side has tiny little metal ribs inside near the spring...

2.36 primary gear hitting water pump gear! Looks like I would need a diffrent gear for the waterpump.... The White pump gear hits my primary gear.... Anyone make a billet gear with a smaller shaft section? What a pain in the ***...... If I knew the 2.36 primary was not a bolt in i would have gone smaller....... anyone know a easy fix?? Thanks

Everything going well! The primary gear oil seal......the manual says to put the seal on with the green mark facing a certain direction. My seal do not have a green mark on it. The only visable sign of a diffrence from either side of the seal is that one side seems to have a tad larger opening where the spring is.....I put this facing outward as I figured the larger opening might give more streach when the gear is put in.... anyone know what im talkin about??? is there really a diffrnece?? Thanks!

Thank you for the info! I was wondering if the clutch would pull that slop out of the shaft........ Got ya on the yamabond....only the case 1/2...not bearings.....or seals..... Thanks again for the deatailed response!!!!!! I will continue the assembly