lt1bird

Whats the opinion on this? Im building a 485, I ran a lockup on my last 535 and it seemed to work fine. ....Using new stock springs... on the new engineive got a stcok side cover on the 485...Was planing on a slingshot lockup but now I might change. The slingshot looks so darn heavy!!!! Im not sure about all that weight having to spin up during accelleration. So now im thinking heavy springs and a hydraulic clutch. Looking for folks who have done either way to post up about their setup! Need help choosing Thanks boys!

Yes, cheetah cyl's.... Not sure where you are talking about in the center? I know there is only a tiny strip of aluminum left in the center between the two cyl's....When I put the base gasket on i use a little formagasket to lock the gasket part in so it does not blow out at that thin part...seems to work fine...... Are you filling in a diffrent location other than the water jackets?

I agree,I would think with such a small ring or material left that filling them in would make the gaskets seal better for sure...

Not epoxy becuse of metal break through on the flywheel side, im talking about the small water jacket holes in the top of the cases. I heard its good to do it as it will help the base gasket sealing...maybe your saying the same thing... has anyone with a big bore done this epoxy to the deck?

Should I fill the engine case water jackets with devcon aluminum, then deck the surfaces? Im building a 485 and figure that would be a good idea? What do other folks do? Thanks for the help...

You know, I had the same issue. Thought I was building a "pump gas" engine. 27cc domes on a 535......165psi cranking pressure. Nope, would detonate no matter what timing I uses. 93 octane and stock advance timing it still detonated... I use 110 sunoco...stores in the tak real well for long periods, does not effect carb floats etc. Im sure I could mix 50/50 but for how much I use it the race gas is fne. Loves the gas thats for sure. I run +4 timing with the race gas. Does trinity make domes larger than 27CC? At what point will I not need race gas??? 150PSI cold cranking???

The crank is billet per them, the cyl's are not cub but cheetah PV cyl's..... they claim 112hp....maybe with race gas but im sure its more like 100hp on pump gas...thats very reasonable with a street port job not full drag... the electronic power valves are just plain awsome....full programmable using my ignetech ignition, you can make that power as smooth as you want, when you want it. At the end of that day ill probably go with a trinity billet, 485 cheetah kit, use the TSS power valves and other slick parts from TSS. Oil injection, etc..... ive got many of the parts already...

Yup, greased it good inside the groove. Kinda looks like only one edge of the seal is marking/rubbing the bushing. I only see one line where it contacts the bushing. That would leave a very marginal seal with only one edge sealing. Ill have to take a real close look tonight..

I have a new motor, the drive side sprocket tranny seal leaks. New bushing and oil seal was installed. Seems to be seaping from the seal where it meets the bushing. Will it brake in and stop or is there another reason for the leak? Should I just slap amother seal in? Thanks!

overpriced? If you add the parts up its not really over priced... dont worry, there is nothing you could say to hurt my feelings. Its all good, always value folks opinions....

a 485 definatly does not vibrate like a 535... 4mil vs 10 mil stroke is a ton. I do street bike riding. The TSS 485 engine is very well engineered.... fully balanced crank...nobody else is doing this probably beacuse they dont care about the vibs on quads in the dirt etc...On street bikes you feel the vibes... single ring pistons have been around a long time, they are much lighter than 2 ring pistons, revs quicker, less drag etc. I agree, might not seal as good but will always make a few hp more.... and get to max RPM quicker. I dont think the shafts/bearings will wear any quicker than any tranny bearing as its got the same setup... Ill let you know how it works out... if I go that route LOL

I think some of you are getting confused with "floating" The floating part from what I understand is that the bearing inner hole is a bit larger than the crank shaft. This is not a press fit onto the crank! It slips on by hand....so at low rpm when the engine wants to rev quicker the crank would spin freely as the bearing would not spin until the bearing eventually got up to speed... sound correct?

I know what you mean, but those guys do a ton of stuff to eek out every little bit of power..... single ring pistons, balanced crank, lightweight flywheel, light weight clutch etc... again, it might be a bit over kill but its what they are all about. max performance/long gevity, super smooth runing... My 535 runs real sweet on the street but it would be nice to have less vibs...but going from the 535 to the 485 alone will reduce a bunch of vibes due to the shorter stroke... I was thinking of machinng the cases per thier spec and make up my mind about the crank setup after.... I do not think the bering would spin in the case with a little yamabond... the baering is a slip fit over the crank not pressed on, this will allow the crank to spin more freely and let the bearing catch up... again, splitting hairs but say its worth 1HP down low... for a pretty simple change that 1hp is basically free......

Thats a tough one. Im planning on going with thier kit. But would love the option to use the trinity kit. When using streigh cut gears most folks use a tz style bearing anyway... I guess thier bearing is massive thus the need for moving the clip inboard.... Seems to make sense. Im still email them on the proper maching of the case for the clip and the 485 case bore.... I think its only the bottom 1/2 of the case that gets the one 1/2 moon groove..... I could send them the cases but the turn around time might be an issue.....

ok, got a email back from them, seems to make sense.... The center half-circlip groove is there to locate the crank axially. It takes the place of the usual drive side retaining groove/circlip. We have to do this when running roller outer mains; because these are no good at coping with any side loads. They are designed to have double the radial load-carrying capacity of ball bearings though; so what we do is we have a hybrid crank with balls for the two center mains, one of which is used to locate the crank axially - and then rollers at the ignition and drive sides ... and hey presto, we have the strongest possible crank that can be built. And then we have an o-ring on the other center main. The two outer mains don't have circlip grooves or o-rings and they don't need them. This is because the crank is what is called a 'floating crank' whereby the outer two mains are a hand slide fit; the same as the main countershaft bearing. And so these bearings are not fixed to the crank the same as a conventional crank, and this prevents binding between the bearings, which otherwise would impose side loads on each other - thus robbing the engine of horsepower. All GP engines run floating cranks. It all sounds reasonable, maybe a hair nuerotic but they are really looking for every HP they can with the lightest rotating mass.... checkout their webpage at www.twostrokeshop.com Cheers

Hey, im with you guys...Ive never done it, but Im still waiting for a response from the engineer at the company. The company is the Two stroke shop in austrailia. The crank is for a 485, 90 degree firing order ,custom balanced with weights. Im still waiting to hear back from them. Origially I thought they said something about the grooves for keepting the bearings and everything from moving around. It looks like another grove for a 1/2 moon clip. This would help keep the bearing in location and give more side thrust retention, not all the pressure on the clip on the flywheel bearing. Lets see what they say...

Interesting idea about the big c clip. Guess that would not work well in holding the bearing tight...Hmmm....Ill let you know what they say...

The forks do not have any rollers! Im pretty They are identical to the bashee ones.... even the shift drum looks exactly the same... If you think about it, why would it be diffrent? The RZ and banshee gears are interchngeable, the gearing is a bit diffrent but the physical gears are almost exactly the same. 1st gear on the banshee is a bit beefier... wider but the location where the shift fork rides looks the same. Wired, ive herd someone else talk about this "roller" setup on the shift forks but there is no info in any of the OEM drawings either....

I know what you mean....... Thanks for the opinions....Ill let you know what the manufature says...

They will still do the job...The orings will simply sit 1/2 in the grove but still extend outward. They would still be compressed, maybe hold even tighter. This way larger berings might be able to be used? I have not measued the opening where the bearings fit. I wonder how much over sized is the case hole where the beraings fit so it leaves room for the orings?? The bearings must be a tad smaller than the opening...maybe a tad smaller on the aftermarket cranks than oem bearings?

Yes, they definatly serve that purpose but, would mating machined groves in the cases maybe help keep the bearings in place better?

aftermarket cranks with orings! Machine some groves in the center bearing area to accept the orings for better alignmet? Im chatting with a company who wants these groves machined into the cases.... even my matoon cases dont have this. What would be the real reason to have these? Would the groves really hurt? Anyone ever hear about folks doing this? Thanks!

Looks like I found one, thanks for the help!

Sounds good....Ive got a few other folks emailing me as well... they seem to want to much money for them for the crapy looking condition. I just need them to be very good shape, no chips, rust, wear etc... Thanks!

I have the shift forks/drum for the rz already....just need the gear set. Please check them out and see the condtion...They must be real nice.... please email be back at LT1BIRD@AOL.COM Thanks!