Rodneya

You could try grand river racing

Why would mixing gas and oil in the tank make it blow up???????????????

Timing plate gives a bit of low end power, and theoretically takes away some top end power. No jetting change needed Losing the airbox lid will require a jetting increase of at least 2 sizes. The plate is not a waste of money, just not the greatest power increase mod if you are on a budget.

Take off the clutch cover and take a look in there. If you were just working in there, that may be your issue. If not, pull the head and look inside.

The small hose is on top of the head is there to prevent air collecting there. There is no way possible to get an air bubble at the impeller that will cause cavitation.

Maybe Kph The only thing that will make a banshee go 125Mph is Craigslist

Loosing the airbox cover will give you a noticeable increase in performance, while the timing plate is only a low end increase that is not very noticeable. Just my opinion though.

I have also ridden Banshees and RZ's in Africa where it gets way above 90 and never had issues there either.

Trust Loco to put GTFO first

The black paint on the rad helps dissipate heat. Stripping the paint will make your rad less efficient and your motor run hotter. Polished rads look cool on drag bikes, but they only run for seconds at a time. Regular bikes have to stay cool for hours when riding. If your motor is jetted correctly you will not overheat as long as you keep moving. Putting in a billet impeller is a good idea though. I run some hairy trails in the mountains and woods and have never overheated.

Running a plug lock is asking to demo your motor.

Plugs backing out are caused by detonation due to too low octane fuel for your compression. Vibration will not do it unless they are only finger tight and lean jetting will cause pre-ignition which will melt holes in the piston. Dont run it like that. It will be expensive. You bjust beat me with your answer, but 7 deg timing could also be a cause

http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/rds/mcy/1598551994.html $250 for what looks like a complete motor and electronics

The cylinders may be a cheetah, but I I did nit mention the cylinders. Read the heading. 90 degree CRANK

Case savers do seem a good idea, but from what guys have posted on here, the billet ones can cometimes cause more damage if the chain lets go. The TM design plastic one seems to be the best.

Two Stroke Shop here is the link. Interesting stuff

I saw an Australian site offering setups with 90 degree crankshaft. Anybody have experience with running something like that?

There is a RZ forum where some members have put together EFI systems. You would have to Google it

When the piston gets too hot and expands too much and leaves leaves streaks of itself on the sides of the cylinder it is seizing. It does not have to lock up. Hammering the motor when it is cold will cause a cold seize, and not lock the motor up as well, just leave piston material on the bore.

You should consider putting on new sprockets with a new chain. Old sprockets will ruin a new chain fast. To check tension, sit on the quad and move the chain up and down between the sprockets. About 3/4 to an inch movement is good.

Usually an air leak will lean you out and burn a hole through the piston, not cause it to seize.

I don't think you would ever get it to start at 75, and even 90 would be difficult. Maybe your tester is wrong, or you are not testing the correct way. Plugs out, throttle open and kick until the needle stops moving.

Double up on the o ring. Works great.

Just curious to know what E85 costs down there compared to gas.

According to FMF website, dirt bike pipes are nickel plated and ATV pipes are chrome. It has to be the crappiest chrome available though