rb0804

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Make sure you clutch is adjusted properly and you can also put lighter springs in it to make it not want to creep while your on the two step. Dont know how long you are on the two step for with the clutch creeping but the long you do it, the hotter your clutch is going to get and the more aggressive it will be. Is your clutch cable old and worn out? Do you have an ez pull type lever?

Not sure where to get the little springs, must be a trade secret. They are different heights though.

play around with you springs pressures just because they are HD springs dont mean that they are all the same psi. stock springs are like 40lbs this manufacture is like 50, that one is 60, etc. You may want to try the Barnett Kevlar clutch as they need more spring pressure and sometimes more lockup weight to stop them from slipping. They seem to be pretty tough tho. The other thing who ported your motor? Do you know your durations? I had a motor last year where the port timing was mismatched and there was a big hole in the power band where I was trying to take off. It would bog 99% of the time. Never got a chance to figure the clutch out as I was trying to figure out why the motor was falling off of power so easily. Hope this helps a little.

please send me an email with pics of the cylinders to RB0804@aol.com thanks

Can you send me pics of the cylinders to RB0804@AOL.COM? thanks

do they have a speed rating?

does anyone have any pictures or know where to get some pictures of the piston/head setup for these cylinders? thanks

I think hes talking 12k for the total bike, frame swing arm, etc. not just the motor. You have a long road to travel and it may take you several tries to get it right. You may go a direction and it may not be what you want, so you start over buying new pipes, carbs, cylinders, crank, etc , basically starting over. your best bet would be to setup a nice chassis that is going to handle whatever you would want to throw at it in the end. This way you have a good starting point. There is nothing scarier that a fast motor in a POS chassis. There are certian motor upgrades like the override and lockup that will work with almost any engine combo, but then you have to chose do you want a 1-5 or a 1-4 manual 5-6 or whatever. hope that helps and good luck

looking for a long rod crank stock stroke and a set of straight cut gears.

pictures of the plastics?

so how fast is it?

At what point do you need a bearing support? Does it stop trans breakage?

NYUK Is that an outboard bearing support? Where did you get it? The only one that I have seen was from packard. Are those grand river pipes?

is that a stock crank or a long rod crank????

lmfao.....so is the cub better lol

banshee brake rotors $15 shipped Ez pull clutch handle $10 shipped

reed spacers, cylinder, and shifpro sold

pic of the airbox it needs some cleaning up shift pro new in bag billet reed spacers 3/8" thick $15.00 shipped kicker gear, make offer right side cylinder with reeds and intake boot 65mm make offer

pic of the airbox it needs some cleaning up shift pro new in bag billet reed spacers 3/8" thick $15.00 shipped kicker gear, make offer right side cylinder with reeds and intake boot 65mm make offer

i have a stock airbox with boots and shift pro from Tudors performance. I'll take $10 plus shipping for the air box and $40 for the shift pro. The shift pro is brand new in the package i purchased it to use in my bike but then i purchased an override. I'll post some pics when I get a chance.

did you readjust your clutch cable after you installed the clutch? there should be free play in the handle, if not the clutch cable could be holding the springs back from putting full pressure on your clutch pack, making it slip. If you are unable to adjust it in with the cable you may have to pull the cover and adjust it on the pressure plate. good luck

i have a stock airbox, i dont think i have the boots though. let me know

i think i might have a shift pro somewhere, PM me if your interested

Listen to your builder. When i was looking for pipes for my bike I heard good things about Shearer's pipes, but i had one question, big bore or small bore. I called and talked to Matt in depth several times and I explained to him my engine combination and what i was wanting to do with the motor and asked if he could recommend a pipe. He said the builders that he sells too all use the small bore pipe for that kind of application except for one. That one builders engine will run with or better than the motors with the small bore pipes. This means its more of a port timing/engine combo choice. To the best of my memory the big bore pipes were made for strokers and have a lower operating range. The small bores are made for more of a "hi rev" application. I would bet on the right motor that big bores would yield a wider, more usable power band which in many cases makes the bike faster without having a high peak HP number. sorry for the long post.