rb0804

I am wanting to sell my 1996 drag banshee with an RZ350 engine. No title but will be able to provide a bill of sale. It is going to need a set of cases in the future and the powervalves are non-operational. Does not come with the tires/wheels. Would be a great starting point for someone who wanted to build a drag shee. Asking price of $2500, the bike is located in Wilmington DE. Here is a list of some of the stuff, please PM me for details. +6 stock style swingarm +6 round style swingarm with silver powdercoat and blue anodized modquad axle carrier extended braided rear brake line Direct Drive lockup with extended cover RZ350 Trans every other dog removed and backcut RZ350 cylinders with pinned powervalves RZ350 cool head with 20cc domes 38mm Mikuni carbs with powerjets and UPP intakes v-force 2 reeds K&N air filters Wiseco billet clutch basket 2.86 Straight cut gears PD billet water pump with billet cover plate w/drain Struted rear with 300ex shocks up front Lonestar adjustable axle Shearer small bore inframe pipes with EGT bungs, comes with probes and analog gauge Dyna ignition with two step hooked up to clutch handle Dyna coil FBG prostock clutch handle with two switches (one for two step other could be used for NOS) Wiseco +4 mil crank (4) passes down the 1/4 drag strip 66mm 795 pistons battery mounted in front of bike

In need of an early style four bolt sprocket hub in good shape. Thanks

Any update on this? Did anyone get their stuff back?

post some more pics. Whats with the epoxy in the upper corners?

The type of lever that you use has a lot to do with it as does the cable. The heavier the springs the more the cable wants to stretch, if its already old and worn out and you put 6hd springs in you may be asking for trouble.

I thought the rekluse was the clutch that the GP bikes were using to prevent engine braking in the corners...but after looking at the setup on their website they have what they call an automatic clutch which is similar to the one that I posted. The difference being that they use the balls to apply the pressure instead of the weighted arms. On the hays unit those weighted arms must overcome the spring pressure to be able to apply force to the clutch pack. With the rekluse, I could see why you would be able to ride at 1/2 throttle because the balls do not have to overcome any force to work. They can just kind of sling out at 1/2 throttle and stay there.

The thicker the oil, the more HP your are going to be losing to parasitic drag.

Very well put. As you increase the weight on the lockup fingers they will come in sooner and will apply more force to the clutch pack. If you were to go out and purchase a new Hays 'convertable' clutch for the banshee then you would have what is known in the motorcycle world as a 'slider'. This type of clutch works off of engine RPM and does not need to use the clutch handle to get the bike going. The down side is that it is really a drag race only application because you must always be accelerating (wide open) to make the clutch 'work' as it is intended or it slip excessively. Here is a picture of what one looks like and a little video giving a demonstration. Enjoy.

Better sprocket selection, you are able to run a smaller rear sprocket should the occasion ever arise.

pics?

The lockup does not apply force as the RPM's go up. Since the lockup is connected to the inner hub, the faster the wheel speed, the more clamping force is applied to the pressure plate. The lockup you are referring to is the direct drive style and offers lots of tuning options between spring and weight selection. There is also what is know as a slingshot lockup with can fit under your stock cover and has a bunch of little balls that work against a ramped groove to apply pressure to the pressure plate.

Everyone pretty well answered most of your questions. As for the 24cc chamber being stock, Yamaha determined that it would be good for the 92/93/94 octane that is available and the various uses/riding conditions present, knowing that somewhere along the line someone was going to put in 87. Could they have designed the chamber better with a higher compression ratio? Sure they could but you have to remember that this is a bike sold to the general public with a factory warranty.

ATF is more of a hydraulic oil. Automatics also have pumps and oil passages that apply 'pressure' to the drums to eliminate slippage. A lot of the aftermarket shift kits up the working pressure of the transmission, making it harder for the clutch pack to slip. As far as the bike goes I use SAE 30.

Looking good. I just have one question: After spending all that money on that nice axle and all of those billet hubs why stay with the shee sprocket hub instead of switching over to the Honda style (four bolt hole) sprocket hub?

I think what he is trying to say is that on the 2.36's the gear on the crank is so larger that it rubs part of the water pump gear and a little tweaking is required. I am assuming that Brandon is going to try and redesign so that the buyer/assembler doesn't have to do a field mod, it would just be a drop in.

what are you planning to do for upper a-arms?

the super cubs require a special head and I believe that they have sealing problems in elevated HP due to cylinder head spacing. I do not have first hand experience with that maybe someone who does will chime in...

The problem with the longer arm and more tire is that you have to 'pull' that larger tire on the other end. Now your pulling the extra weight of the arm, the extra weight of the larger tires and the fancy o-ring chain is still robbing horsepower. You can run a smaller tire and a shorter swingarm with a little clutch tuning.

Is that all you have to say Brian? No controversy? I am sure that you have an opinion. lol. Good to see you back.

Who built the new frame? Is it stretched out the front? do you have any more pics? It looks pretty slick.

the more chain you have the more drag you have. O-ring chains take more power to turn then a standard chain due to the extra drag of all those little orings. the x-ring style chain robs slightly less power. You also have to pull the extra weight of the arm. I know of builders that run a stock length swinger with a bar and a smaller tire on their drag bikes.

I think that the hard to tune thing is from using the blowthrough setup. carbs were setup up to work off of vaccume, not have pressure forced through them. The fuel injection will work well and will not be as sensitive to air temp and density altitude. good luck just remember you need about twice as much fuel on alky so make sure you have enough injector before you start cranking the boost up. The other thing is mae sure you have enough injector pressure so that they open under boost. didn't kevin have a turbo 250r?

pictures of cases to rb0804@aol.com? do you accept paypal?

what type of tires?

Timing and placement has a lot to do with the reading that your EGT gauge will register. If you don't have enough timing in the engine, the mixture will still be burning coming out of the exhaust port giving you a false 'high temp' reading. Too much timing and it could read on the low side. Also, t is not wise to compare EGT numbers with someone because if they have the probe in a different place then they are going to see different numbers. They could be higher or lower depending on placement.