rb0804

i ran 94 with 17/41 in the quarter

do they make an 18 tooth sprocket for the banshee? If so where can i get one?

i am going to try the other tires first, they are smaller in diameter and if it still bogs i am going to try the lighter springs. hopefully ill get a chance to try it tomorrow.

are you running on asphalt? do you have an override? whats your gearing? i am 17/41 with 3/3 on the springs and it bogged at the race track. but i dont think i left as hard as i could have either. i may try the 6 stock springs down the road.

has anyone had to add weight to there lockup to get it to lock fully?

i use the SAE 30. i just buy a case and that does the bike and the lawn mower

most places make you have a dead man switch too, like the one from prodesign, just in case you happen to fall off

there is a high temp exhaust paint thats black, you can pick it up at the auto parts store, and when you run the bike and get it hot it kinda cooks itself on there

i ran mine at 17/42 for awhile, then i went to 16/42. The 17/42 is very similar to your 16/40 it was hard to get it moving (if i was drag racing) i would have to beat the hell out of the thing to not bog it. it was fun once it got moving though. You should be fine unless you do a lot of holeshots. right now I'm at 17/41 now with a 1-5 override on asphalt.

dont forget to drill out your gas cap to a larger hole to aid the fuel valve in doing its job

lol... its best to just go to the local parts store and buy a pack of feeler gauges, there pretty cheap and then you know its right...

did you modify that mulitstage to work with the shee? looks like the one for a 'busa

not less than .020 i set mine @ .025 to be safe. it supposed to be as close as possible without touching. dont set it too close or it will hit, mine broke the cheap china stator plate

what do i do with the little brass tit sticking out below the water pump? is it ok to plug it?

i just installed my lockup clutch, should i add more oil since the side cover is now wider?

theres a million builders out there, you gotta find the one that suits you. A +4 crank will give you more low end torque, a plus for riding the trails, but the banshee isn't really a trail bike. Your gonna have to hit your pipe, port, carb combo dead on because your going after two totally different extremes. Ones low end torque and the other is a top end screamer, somewhere you gonna have to compromise.

i need a set of the metal reed stops that bolt to the outside of the reeds. i'll take the cages too if the price is right but i dont really need them. thanks

should the clutch adjuster move back and forth or am i missing a washer somewhere?

some times when the floats get old they lose there buoyancy. they dont rise up high enough to close the needle valve and seat. a 370 main jet seems big are you running alky?

where does this take place? is there a schedule or something?

i just installed a new dynatek ignition system. the coil seems to work good. the plug wires do not come with ends so i installed ngk 5k resistor ends and run a b series plug not a br. it starts a lot better, i was using RZ electronics and i previously remounted the coil, and the dyna slid right in no probs (not sure if its a direct bolt on in the factory spot)

whats wrong with a boost bottle??

i agree there is so much to the stock banshee cylinders, they are so f'd up

j-madd any idea where to get them from or what they are? i am looking for a set of pistons with the stock pin diam that do not have the intake "windows" cut into the piston.

just yank the motor out and roll it over, take the clutch basket, stator and all that other stuff that holds the two cases together and you can pull the bottom case and access the trans and bottom end without touching the cylinders, just be very careful to not loose those clips that retain the bearings or to damage the seals. good luck.