GrMeyer

What is a full port? What pipes are you running? Elevation? Temp?

Plug chop!!!!! Check and make sure your gas cap is no clogged. Pull the pet cock out and look and clean the screens. Do you have good spark? You should be able to tell the difference from 250, 300, and 330's in the bike. If you cant then something is wrong. I would throw the 330's in and pull the choke. If it gets worse then your rich. If it gets better then your lean. The air screw is most effective between idle through 1/8 throttle. The pilot (slow) jet is most effective between 1/8 through 1/4 throttle. The jet needle is most effective between 1/4 through 3/4 throttle. The main jet is most effective between 3/4 through wide-open throttle.

Yeah it is on there!!!! I guess Ill just put the shock back together and if it starts to leak after the rebuild Ill have to take it apart and fix it then. But just found out that the kit I ordered from Elka doesnt come with the Piston wear bands. What a joke. I would think that when you order a full rebuild kit for the shocks that they would put those in there. NOPE. boy was I wrong. But it has everything else. Damn them!!! Oh well. I have to rebuild the elkas on my rhino so ill just order them then when I order more parts.

Sweet Man. I will try to get them off tomorrow. There was a light build up dirt. But I really dont know if they are bad due to a seal head going bad. So I have the parts and will get them done. I only have another pair of shocks on a raptor 700 that are the same but brand new. But it is nice knowing how they will come apart. The rest is CAKE... The oil did smell bad and as you had told me before to check and see if the oil felt it had a metallic feeling and they do. Well 3 hard years of dune riding will do that I guess. Only need to find parts for (Seal head and wear band) the rear- Banshee, 660 Raptor and Yfz450 front shocks.

Sorry forgot to attach the file

well everything is taken apart. Just need to figure out that knob part. Damn this thing!!! Sorry for the bad pic. from the cell phone. Left my camera in the 5th wheel.

Well Im in the middle of rebuilding my elka shocks and wanting to know if anyone knows how to rebuild the rebound adj (Knob) type. Well mostly just take it apart to put new O-rings in.

Well I know the spring rate was a little much for trial riding when I had them on my stock arms. Adding them to +2+1 arms. The only thing I could see is stiffening up the Highspeed compression and. But other then that, I couldnt have been happier for a shock like that for the price. Hope all will work out for you.

Hey man sorry if I came off on a bad way. Work was kicking my ass and no rest over the weekends because of the heat these days. A few things I would change Softer compression valving. And moving them to a dual rate spring set up. All in all. If your cutting the shafts shorter, this will make for a great add on to a banshee that someone is not wanting to add longer arms on their bike. I was going to PM you on seeing if you know how to rebuild the rebound adj off of elka shocks. The knob type that can be turned without tools.

1) Is the shock to firm? too soft? Just right? Just a little stiff if your a light guy 2) What type of riding do you do? Dunes, trails and was MX 3) Do you ever notice the front end bottoming out? YUP. Because they are not made for the bashee. They are longer shocks. 4) Do you notice any "pogo stick" like effect with the 450 shocks. POGO is meaning that someone doesnt know how to tune in shocks. 5) Have you noticed any ill effects on your stock ball joints from running the 450 shocks? You will blow out the ball joints because they are extending more then they are made fore 6) How do these shocks compare to the stock shocks? Better upgrade over stock 7) .... NOT worth the time and money to put them on stock arms. Im not one to cut down the shock so I cut the bottom of the arm out in between the bottom mounting points. So I just cut a square out so the bottom so the shock would not hit. You will have to shave the top mounting shock points so it clears the 450 rez. If you really want the full effect of the shocks. Buy some +2+1 arms.

Go with something that is made for the banshee. Not a take off of another bike. IE the yfz450. going to a wider arm is great. Also if you go with a +4 axle out back. The bike will handle like it is on rails.

You need to set the main jets first. Then the needle then he pilots/air screws. Make sure your carbs are sycned or you will have a hard time on the bottom end. IE on carb will work harder then the other. Causing a bog as well. If your moving the air screws in (richer) and the bog gets worse then your prob rich on the pilots due to warmer temps. The air screw is most effective between idle through 1/8 throttle. The pilot (slow) jet is most effective between 1/8 through 1/4 throttle. The jet needle is most effective between 1/4 through 3/4 throttle. The main jet is most effective between 3/4 through wide-open throttle.

Make sure you resync the carbs as well. Having them out of sync will cause a hard time dialing in the bottom end.

Im a guy that will always go rich before I go lean moving it down on the needle will make it rich. going up to the blunt end will make it lean.

Well play'ed Sir...

When you get new o-rings. Put some RTV on them to help seal. And let it sit over night. Alot of after market pipes will have blow by. The RTV just helps seal up the head pipe to jug.

What oil are u running? I have always used tusk HD kits in all my bikes. Right now I just run three stock springs and three hd springs. Make sure u soak the clutches over night before install

Did u check to see if the pistons are in spec for the jugs? There are three spots that u have to check. If there was not an over bore done. Then I'm guessing ur getting piston slap. IE the piston is lose in the jug. What kind of pistons did u put in? Are they cast or forged? Did u check ring gap at all three spots in the jug? Did the wrist clips Click in when put on the rods? Did u re tq everything back down after first heat? Just some food for thought.

there are lot of people that run 40:1 with no probs. The reason why it will get worse is because you will be getting more fuel causing it to be rich. If your having probs in that throttle range. You need to mess with the needle and not the air-screw. Every time you pull the tops. You will need to re check the sync of the carbs. Read up on this http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

Only the 01 raptor 660 will fit. The reason is because the 01's came with a remote rez and not a fixed like the rest of the following years.

The air screw is most effective between idle through 1/8 throttle. The pilot (slow) jet is most effective between 1/8 through 1/4 throttle. The jet needle is most effective between 1/4 through 3/4 throttle. The main jet is most effective between 3/4 through wide-open throttle. Where are you having probs on the throttle at? You will need to set the main jet first, then the needle, then the air screws.

If your wanting added insurance, you can just at one gal of 100ll to 4gal of premium. It will slightly bring up the oct. for 4 gals of 91. it would bring it up to 92.8. For 93 it would bring it up to 94.4 I run 3 gal of 100ll and 2 gal of 91 on 155psi. The only reason why I do this is because I dont like Arizona fuel. And just having the added insurance is safe on my books.. Fire knows his shit and alot of other people do on here as well.

Well if your bike only has about 40hrs on it then the shock should be fine. If the rebound is set to high then the back end will kick when it gets in the air. set the preload (spring) in the middle of the shock. Set the compression and rebound in the mid and start from there. Each bike is different because of a number of things. So you will have to find the happy place you want it to be at. Just take your time and understand what does when when you change them.

sounds like your in for a new rebuild and resprung. Having shocks set up for your weight and riding style is a major PLUS.... Only way to ride in my book. I will do suspension on a bike before I start doing motor mods. You will be able to ride and handle stuff 10x better then stock. My bike's handle like they are on rails. Shocks do take time to learn how to dial in but once you understand how on what does what... You will have one sweet ride you will not want to get off. But the bad side is that it is all $$$ to get it there. But I have never looked back. I try to rebuild my shocks now every two years of dune riding. If I ride all year round. I will put a new seal head in and fresh oil for the dunes. Other then than that. Having fresh shocks is sweet. If your wanting it to be softer. Back the preload up (spring nuts). If your starting to bottom out then you need to crank up the compression nob. I try to tune my shocks in so that I bottom out at least once a run. If your not bottoming out, then your not using the full suspension. The best starting place is to start with the compression and rebound settings in the middle. You need to ride and tune to as what the bike is feeling like. If the bike is packing. IE the rear shock is not coming out fast enough, then you need to speed up the rebound settings. I do two clicks at a time. If your bottoming out when you come off of a drop off or a landing then you need to speed up the compression. It take me about 30mins to tune in a bike for my buddies. People also need to remember that shocks need to warm up before they start messing with the settings. It is just like motor oil. When its cold, it is thick. When warm, its like water. So take a quick run and warm up the shocks and tune as you go. I just keep a small flat head in my cargo pant and adj when I find what needs to be fixed. Read up on this http://atv.off-road.com/atv/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=192286

Just dont. They tend to wear out fast and if you dont keep them clean. They will squeak. I have to replace them every two years in my rhino arms. Had them on a set of full flight arms and they did nothing but squeak. You could tell that the bike was coming from a mile away! If you plan on riding in sand...You will need to make sure you keep them clean after every trip. Them more shit that gets in there will wear them down and cause slop in the joints making them feel loose and can pop out. Had that happen on my bottom arm of my rhino. Not a fun dunes trip. Only way you can get new ones in is to press them in. There are some good things about them, but I just dont like them for what I do. I have had to many probs with them. Just my .02<_<