GrMeyer

3x on the port and welding of the crank.

Im one for parts made for the bike. But I can say that i had Burgard make my arms so they are made for the extra length of the 450 shocks. The only thing I can say is I need to revalve my shocks later on down the road and make them into dual rate springs set up. The bike handles like it is on rails in the dunes. But like said above. Just save your money and get some shocks made for the bike. Find some that are used and get them rebuilt and maybe a valving for the riding style your doing. Matt is the man on here for suspension. He has helped me alot in my journey and many others. He can make you a set of 450 shocks for after market banshee arms. And valve and rebuild any shocking needs out there! But if money is really really tight. You can find take of shocks for cheap. The reason why I really like the yfz shocks are because they offer compression and rebound already. the basic works and elka's dont and you will pay to have those adj. So for a $200 bills I got a set up I can tune in for the riding im doing. But you need to watch out for shocks with alot of wear on them. I use to have my shocks rebuilt every 2-3 years of riding. Now that I have learned how to rebuild shocks. EI change the oil and wear parts. I will be doing it every year. But I know Matt can tell you the major signs of wear. The yfz shocks and the full front end of the yfz has been talked about many many many of times. There are people that like the ride of the yfz arms on the banshee; which I didnt and didnt think it was safe.

I once had a smart teacher. He said, " You will always learn something new every day." Boy was he right!!!!

If you dont have the idle screws in the carbs then you will not get the bike to idle unless you use the throttle cable adj to adj the idle. NOT a good way of doing stuff!!! If you have another set of carbs with the idle screws in them, then just switch carbs unless something is broken or stripped. But you will need the idle screws. Hints the name of the screw. "Idle" The air screws are the screws that go in the carbs at a 45 deg angle. The the screws are on the left sides of the carbs. The right carb is a bitch to get to sometimes. Did you remove the black box under the tank? If your sitting on the bike, it is up under the left side of the tank. TORS box. It must be removed!!!!!!!!!!

Here are my ?'s Why are you running a reed/carb spacer? Are you running stock carbs? Do they have the TORS removed? What intake filter set up are you running?(Pods, Air box with no lid, Air box with lid. Air box lid with holes cut or drilled in it? Im going so say that the 25 pilots are going to be cutting it short when winter comes if your not running the lid. As for the mains. We need to know the intake set up.

Did you Add the TORS kit? And if so did you have to drill and tap anything? How are you setting the carb sync? Did you make sure that the slides with the slop on it is out toward the filter? Are you sure that the slides are not getting stuck when you pull the throttle. (with the engine off, pull the throttle a few times and make sure the slides go up and down without hang ups. My bet is that your moving in the AirScrew and not the idle screw. The air screw's only on the left sides of the carbs and at a 45deg angle. The idle screws are one the out side of the carbs. IE the left screw is on the left side of the left carb & the right screw is on the right side of the right carb.

Well thats just for summer... I would prob look into getting some all the way up to 320's. Then you will never have to worry if you are lean on the top end. Just keep putting larger mains in tell it eats its face and then you know your rich!

Your mains are way to big. If your going to be running the lid. You will prob end up in the 270ish range. Read up on this page http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

Well you will have to rejet for the different temps. I would start with around 310(should be rich) and a 27.5 pilot on 2 turns out on the air screw. Needle in the middle. That should be good enough to get you going. As for oct. I would prob look at the 110 race gas. Some of builders should chime in on what oct to run.

Well played SIR. Its cheaper to replace plugs then it is pistons.

Well im guessing that the open filter is meaning that you dont have the lid on. Or do you have pods? What temps are you seeing? IE what temps will you be riding in? What elevation are you at? As for Gas oct. You will need to do a compression check to see what gas you need to run. You might be in the 100oct range if your in low elevation.

Umm... Well you will have to rejet for both temps. Starting point for the heat. Pilots 25 Mains 260 Needle Middle clip Air screw 1-1/2 turns from LIGHTLY fully seated. Read up on this site to help better under stand the jetting of a banshee and what problems mean what. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html Make sure you resync the carbs when your done messing with the carb tops. Make sure you set your Mains first. Then the needle. Then the Pilot/Air Screw. Changing the main's will change the jetting on the needle but not by much. I find what the bike likes the most and just let the needle be. And just changing the mains when temps change.

And yes I have ride'n a bike that has the conversion done and doesn not come close to the +2+1 arms that are made for the bike. I might as well just mod the frame for some forks and make it the good old 3 wheeler. Im guessing you have never riden a quad/bike that is really set up for a person. 90% of people dont know how to properly set the suspension for them.

Thank You... Come Again!!! Why are you wanting to add parts from another bike just to make it some what handle better. That of which are not sent for the correct center of gravity. And just as Sandjragon said,"Major F-up waiting" The old will lead the young

The Cheapest one!!!

You might want to look at getting bigger pilots. 27.5. Helped me before I went to a port work.

You can try to get it by eye all you want. But they will always be off unless you have the so called "snail". I always did mine by eye and after I got the snail tool. Talk about much better low end. But eye's will do just fine.

There are some good write ups in the Drag section on Alcohol

Im at the same point but there are more things you ill also need to be doing. You will need carbs drilled for alcohol You will need a dual feed pingel You will need Number (9) plugs. Timing at around 7+ish And im sure more. But from what I have read, it should be fun and im getting my foot in the door for this coming dunes season at Glamis

Do you know the type of port that was done?

Jenny Craig the lighter the bike. The fast it will be. And that is the cheapest way!

Yeah they are sick shocks. But I have a guy that gives me his pricing on all the shocks because I have so many quads and a rhino with them. But all in all thats what I said in my email is that was the main part that I was looking for along with the seal head on the rebuild kit. Ill just have him throw them in when I put my order together tomorrow. What oil are you using for your shocks? Are you using a lighter oil for the fronts then the rear? And do you know where I can order the seal heads and wear bands for the rear shocks of the banshee and 660 raptor? I contacted Atv parts Unlimited and they said that the seal heads are $15.00 each but didnt have a clue on the part number's for the wear bands

Sorry... I Will start typing this way for everyone!

The air screw is most effective between idle through 1/8 throttle. The pilot (slow) jet is most effective between 1/8 through 1/4 throttle. The jet needle is most effective between 1/4 through 3/4 throttle. The main jet is most effective between 3/4 through wide-open throttle.