GrMeyer

your putting 36mm on stock port jugs?

I just use a normal car spring compressor. If your not worried about he PC on the spring then go for it. If you are, then try to find a local that will take them off for you. And why are you taking the springs off?

2 are better then one for some reason no the banshee. Plus if your going to be moving to some R2 pipes, then I would prob be looking for some 28-30mm carbs. Unless your going to move to a stroker crank. The stock carbs are easy to tune if you under stand the carbs and have a vac gauge. Most people think that looking and seen both slides move at the same time they are synced. WRONG. You can get them close, but they will we off not matter how good your eye/s are. There are alot of people on here that have Fattys or have had them.

Manual is there for a reason

http://www.dunereview.com/electricalupgrade-1.htm

That mainly what all I ride is sand. Having a +2+1 front and a +4 axle will really make the bike feel like its on rails.

What ever which one reads about a 2mm ring.

370 mains? Wow that is rich! Is ur bike ported? Or are in like the artic somewhere?

Contact a site sponsor for ur jetting needs. With the lid on and 25 pilots, turn the air screws 1 turn from seated. Make sure the gas is shaken to keep the oil from separating in the tank. But that takes a long time to happen. As long as the smoke is not white I would say ur good to go. Mine smokes like a forest fire till it gets warmed up.

As long as they are not big dings. I would just paint the pipes. What are u looking to get out of the switch? I say spend the money on something else like suspension,porting, motor mods, or riding gear.

Main jets dont effect the idle. Make sure the carb slides are in the right carbs and that the choke tube is in place.

Should be close. U might want to get some 27.5 pilots on hand as well. 300 is a good starting point. More the likely it might be rich with the 300. So plug chop and see where ur at.

We can't teLl u what to do with out riding the bike. So this is were plug chops come in play. Also, when u say the carbs are synced, did u use a vac gauge to dial them in?

There are a some different types of swingers you can get. The straight = higher. Or a ladder swinger that will help keep it more level. The shock will depend on if the swinger was made for the stock shock length. If it is then I would talk to MATT on here and see what all you need. You might be able to just get away with just a new spring. But if your shocks has never been serviced, then its time to get worked on. You can have Matt revalve it and spring it for your swing arm riding needs. I know for one that I wouldnt put a stock shock on a +6/8 swinger with out having a heavier spring added at the min.

If you running then lid then the mains should be around 240-250 If your not running the lid then the mains should be around 290ish with a 27.5 pilot. So you need to decide if your wanting to run the lid or not. Or you can drill some holes in the top of the lid to help bring in more air but still get the added protection from the lid. You need to remember when jetting the banshee. Mains 3/4-WOT Needles 1/4-3/4 throttle. Pilots/Airscrew's idle-1/4 Also you need to make sure the slides are synced or you will have a hard time fine tuning the bottom end in. I try to get the needle and the air screws close. But you need to set the main first. Then the needle, then the low end. Changing mains will change the needle setting some times. I just got lazy and left my needle and just changed my main when temps started to change on me. Then just fine tuned the air screws as the day went by. There are some great write ups on here about how to do plug chops. There is also a video on how to sync the carbs as well.

+2 for Matt:cheers:

I know what you mean now when you say you can smell the oil and feel the oil. I just got done with my rear banshee shock and WTF. Well i guess I didnt really expect much from being a 98. But what a major diff about a rebuild. I think when I took it apart, it only had maybe half of the oil left in it.

Just contact a site sponsor. I would look at getting 27.5 pilots. Mains jets from 280-330 This will cover you if you go to higher/lower elevations and major temp changes as well.

Ok so I got the carbs on and the needles in. Needles 4-2. Started at 51.8 with 1 turn in. Sounded lean so turned 1 more turn richer. Found out that both floats need to be adj. One of the bowls are slightly leaking around the gasket. Probs - Ideals fine, then it will jump up about another 500rpm for about 10secs and then idle just fine for about a min. then repeat. Can snap the throttle and it takes about 5 secs to come back down to idle. Im not running a cross over. Fresh gaskets on the intake side from jugs back to manifolds. Boots look good. Wondering if having one bowl filled all the way and the other about 3/4 will have and effect on this. From what I can tell is that the bike sounds 10x better then the stock carbs. Not starving for air anymore. Will not be able to ride it till this weekend; I have to move the 5th wheel out of the way. So this weekend will be getting the floats set to the right heights. Fixing the gasket leak. And fine tuning in the cable/carbs.

Do you know how old the shocks are? And if so when was the last service on the shocks. Matt can back me on this one. Even if they dont show signs of leaking, I would get them serviced at the max of 2-3years of riding.

Are you running the Lid? What is the Elevation? What is the Temps you are running in? What are in the carbs now?

You can cut the stock timing plate and save some coin. Just need the special flywheel puller and then you can cut up to +5deg of timing. I only went with +4

Yup did it about 2 years ago. But will have to get an adj one due to wanting to switch to meth.

Its a black tube that connects both carbs together. It is about 2-1/2 inch long. Its about half way up the carb on the inside.