GrMeyer

Im going to say that sense it is getting cold. I would just jet one up to be on the safe side.

I have been running 100ll for three years now with no probs.

OK so what are you wanting?

Swap the spark plug boots around and see if the same side still fouls out.

was there a leak down test done after the rebuild? I would say that you ran lean on that side. Air leak im guessing. But if there are metal shavings in the crank, i would prob start looking for a new one.

I had no prob with down low RPM and Mid RPM with stock carbs. The big thing on dual carbs is having they synced. If they are not sycned, then you will have one hell of a time with the low end. I would just put your money some where else like a timing plate, intake-filter/s, suspension, cool head and or porting. If you have not yet done a +4 deg on the timing. It will help much with the low end sense you dont see very high RPMs.

Gerth02 is mine.

I would have to say the same thing. Why not keep what you have now? Dual carbs are easy to tune in. All you really need is a vac gauge. They are like $30 That where alot of people go wrong.

Unless you have a buddy that has a press. It is almost cheaper to buy a new one. Then you get everything new. I would look at getting it Trued and Welded as well. Then you will never look back wondering if a pin is starting to walk on you.

start at 1-1/2 turns out from fully seated.

going up in the mains will do no damage. Going lean will do damage in no time. I always jet up before I jet down. Easier to see if the bog gets worse or better.

OK so I just writing that gave me a bug to go out and ride it. Much much better. Bottom and Mid seem to be right on. I have my PJ's 1 turn open and seemed to be rich on top. Went to turn them in 1/4 of a turn and I saw a cop out the corner of my eye driving down the other street. So just jumped back on and came straight home. But it will pick up the front end with ease from just a quick stab of the throttle. Man I am so happy I took the risk in trying these carbs. From the time I have spent with them. They are much easier to mess with then having to pull or tilt a carb to have to rejet. Nothing better then just pulling three screws. Turning the rod in or out. Then checking to see if both rods are equal. I would have to say that I just shaved about 5-10mins just in jetting. No more having to look and see if I have the right jets ready to be put in. Thanks for all the help everyone.

Matter of fact. I just washed the Toy Hauler. So now I have room to get it out and run it up and down the street a few times. Just waiting for this evening to run it because its 95deg out side right now. But not this coming weekend but the next, ill have it out at Glamis to see how much of a real difference the carbs will make.

Do those have rebound adj? I see that they have compression.

Bansheeryder21, if your running those mods. Then you should be around the 320 main and 27.5 pilots. Mains are WOT Needles are 1/4-3/4 throttle. Pilot/air screws are idle-1/4 throttle. When your jetting. Make sure you set the Main first. Then the needle, then the pilots/air screws. After you have set the needle. Make sure you sync the carbs. Or you will not be able to get the bottom end dialed in.

same here. Just do it by feel.

try the search button. This has been covered about 1 million times just like what pipes are the best.

spend your money else were.

Here is an old but good site that offers GPS way points for some of the dunes out west here. http://www.dunereview.com/home.htm

Killerpeck sand dunes in Wyoming will be a good bet if you want sand and snow

If you use the stock shocks for starting off, then you will prob have the preload of the spings set to the stiffest to counter act the longer arms. If money is a prob. Contact Matt on here and see if he has any shocks layn around. I have been look that the classifieds and have seen some good deals on arms and shocks.

You might not be in need of valving. Matts going to ask you if the shocks are set up for your weight? What riding style are they set up for? Are the shocks set up for stock or aftermarket suspension? If you got them used, then they are most deff in need for a rebuild. There should be a SN on the shocks that you can contact Ohlins and see how they are set up. But Matt will beable to get you set up for your needs. Your prob in for a revalve and spring set up.

8 paddle haulers are plenty. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Sand-Hauler-Paddle-Tire-Set-2-Rear-ATV-Paddle-Tire-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3360e19558QQitemZ220668728664QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories I have ran these for 3 years and have had nothing wrong with them. Have 3 other friends that run them and couldnt be happier.

I would prob look for some 30mm carbs then for all around. But here is another ? for you. Are you done with the more mods. IE stoker crank later on? CUB? If your going to be getting more into the more then you might want to look at some other carbs. But if your done and can get the 28s for a great deal. I would get them and run them. Not like you cant sell them later on down the road for more or = for what you got them for.

Umm...I always jet one up to be on the safe side and do a plug chop. It is easier to change a plug then it is a piston.