GrMeyer

I have the G-force on my banshee for two years now and look just like new. I have a lonestar on my raptor and the mother snapped right in half. Got a new one for free. But I guess they have changed the way the forged them sense then. I also kept breaking lonestar axles in my rhino. But they once again changed the way they where made. Been running it for the dune season and have had great luck.

No... sorry I was talking about Peters post. Also I have had probs when buying used shocks that the shafts will get pitted from someone riding to close to someone and it will be hard for the shocks to seal on the seal head. New shafts are not cheap!!! Also for people that use the outwears on the shocks are a bad idea if your not riding in mud. They will keep in the find dust and it will act like sand paper on the seal heads.

I have fatty's with a Dune part and it pulls hard. I have the stock swinger on and thinking I might have to move to a +2 or +4 to help keep the front end down. I also moved my timing to +4 and it helped out alot on the bottom end. When I comes on the pipe; all I can say is you better hold on because the damn thing pulls. Like said above. Just make sure your jetted right.

I would start with 27.5 pilots. Air Screw 1-1/2 turns from fully seated. Needle in the middle. And around 330's or 340's for the mains. But that also depends on how cold you are to.

True true. But you need to watch out when buying used shocks. People will tell you they are great shocks. But what really you dont see is if they are leaking at all. You have to factor in around $100 just for the tear down and around another $100 or so for parts. That is depending on if they are valved for you and the springs are for your weight. Thats why I would say if not a real hard core rider with jumping. I would just try to find some used YFZ shocks for around $200 and go from there. Then you have all 3 adj of the shock to work with and not just the preload on the cheaper set of Elkas. Im not trying to steer you away from buying Elkas, but if your not wanting to shell out the money for shocks. Then I would start small and work from there. There are many people that have the 450 shocks on their banshees and with no probs. I jump my banshee and ride the piss out of it at the dunes. The only thing I want to do with my yfz shocks are revalve them for high speed compression and make them into deal rate springs. So prob around $400 for me to do that. So If you figure that in to the price I paid. I will have about $600 and I have Compression, Rebound and Preload adj. If you try to get those adj from an after market shock dealer. You will be paying out the ass. Plus it is nice to be able to dial in the shocks for the riding I will be doing. I has taken me about a year of off and on riding to really figure out how to dial in shocks. But once you learn that side of how shocks work and what changes what. You will have one great riding quad and will be able to ride 3x longer. Also.... Look into buying a steering stabilizer. You will not have all that arm pump when hitting rocks or rough terrain.

To find out how big the carbs are you have to measure the ID (inside diameter) of the carbs. The part that goes to the intake boot. And if you need to find filters. You just measure the OD (outside diameter) of the mouth of the carbs. You might as well just go and buy a micrometer. They are only about $10 for a cheap on with digital read out. I got mine from Checker when I use to work there. It will measure shit in MM and Inches. It is a good investment because you will all ways be using that tool for other things as well. Also comes in handy for shims in shocks and other engine parts.

I have about the same set up and it is a lot of fun to ride. I had to change my gearing to stay in the power band long. Now im wanting some CPI inframes and thinking of switching to meth for the dunes. Or just staying at 100ll because it right down the road from me. But would really like to try out the meth on the bike, but think I would have to upgrade to a +2/+4 swinger. But its all money in the end. But all in all, I dont know why I didnt get my jugs ported long time ago. Best mod for the money!!!

I would really like to see a pic!

The reason why they put jets in are for people with stock bikes and wanting to add a jet kit to their bike thinking that it will make some great performance upgrade to it.

Read up on this to help learn more about the banshee http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

SEARCH Button

I could see if you are riding the dunes or mx track to get some elkas. But like said above, just buy some take off 450 shocks and you will have preload, compression and rebound adj. And if you want to revalve them and new springs later on, there are alot of channels out there that make after market parts for those shocks. I have them on my banshee with +2 arms for 2 dunes seasons and they have been great.

When people change out the clutch basket. They make a big mistake on retorque'n the nut. Some people just zip them back on with an air gun and call it a day. Well over a some R&R on my self. Found out that if you go over the torque specks, it will start to fold the washer into the basket and cause it to grab. Which will result in harder "N" finds and feels like the clutch is not disengaging all the way.

WTF!!! Get working on that!

How many hours are on the top end? Do a compression test. If it gets to low, then it will be hard to start.

True with and oil residue. But you should have burn out the packing before hey are socked with oil. Every time I have changed out my packing, they are burned out and hard with little oil on the bottom side. I also just use reg wall insulation because I had some around the house from redoing a room in the house. Seems to work just fine to me. And with having 6 quads and a rhino. The packing really adds up. People also need to remember not to repack to tight.

If you cant get it to load. Then go to GOOGLE. Type in: Banshee carb tuning. Click search. Then the name of the site is called. (Banshee Jetting FAQ).

As for the vac hose, I dont know. I just us the old school vw air meter gauge. As for the 27.5, it should be fine. Just set the air screws all the way in and turn the around 1-1/2 turns out. Here is a great site on banshee carb tuning. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

Get your self some Elka Dune Edition shock. They are money but they have everything you could want in a shock. I have had mine for 3+ years now and never looked back. Had Works...What a shit show that was.

Just buy a clymers manual and you will be ok.

Yeah I use to have a CR250R... What a fun bike. But moved to 4wheels, but look back some times wishing I could still ride 2 wheels.

well the +2 = to be 2 inch wider on one side. So you will have a total of 4 inches over stock. +3 is 6 inches over stock.

When you let the bike sit. Do you shake the bike to help the oil remix in the tank? When you run the bike, do you ride it like a grandma or ride it like it was built for? What is the oil ratio you mix it at? Are you running rich?

LT shocks are a nice penny if you know what im sayn. The more travel uses the standard travel shock. You will have a better and easier time finding shocks for the +2 arms. and if you come to a pinch and need some shocks to get by, the yfz 450 shocks will work just fine.

the +1 forward you will not really tell a diff any at all But I have only gone to +2 arms and always love them. I go for an offset rims for the dunes to make it a +3 and the reg tires for trail riding to keep those extra 2 for the trees. But if you go wide up front. Make sure you go wide in the back and your bike will handle like it is on rails.