mdhc500

#'s from NOSS Machine... .........Sea Level..1000'.2000'.3000'..4000'..5000' 18cc.........197.....178...171...170.....165.....145 19cc.........183.....167...160...158.....152.....137 20cc.........169.....156...149...146.....140.....129 21cc.........156.....145...138...134.....128.....121 stock........130.....125...118...112.....106.....100 I would say between 120 and 130 psi give or take and look for them to be betwwen 1-3 psi difference per side. Check it cold, with WOT and kick it until you get the highest #... Good luck

Will do... Its a K&S, Inc cheapo kill tether. When the red cap is on the housing it pushes a button it. They say when the circuit is closed it should run, and when the cap is pulled the switch opens and it should kill the engine. The bike was 100% before I tore it down, I really hope the coil, cdi, or stator just went out on it... I did do some re-taping and routing on the kill switch and the plastic housing cracked on me when I was re-installing it on the handlebars... I will piss around with it tonight... I do have a multi-meter but will be luck if I can turn it on!!! lol

No, I did not change anything with other than re-taping it to the harness that goes to the plug under the gas tnak. Is there wa way to test that switch like twisting the wire together since it runs in the closed position? okbeast Posted Today, 11:02 AM Pickup gap can still change, had it happen on a few bikes for some reason, check it. Also take 30 mins. to learn how to check the electrical, obviously it would be worth it and pay for itself. How can it move? I take it back, I did have the stator cover off when I added the new stainless hardware... I spun the flywheel around a few times by hand... Where do I look to see the pickup gap? Is this the thing that should be a matchbook cover thickness in clearance?

Good catch... That would have resulted in a WTF just happened moment!

The stator cover never came off so the gap did not change I would not guess??? The key switch has been removed and the red and black wires have been joined. It has an aftermarket kill switch installed, it is a closed circuit switch and its tapped into the plug/harness that goes down the handlebars to a plug under the gas tank. It somehow has the swtich on the bars disabled as you could flick it back and forth before and the engine would not die... The kill switch was the only way to kill the motor. And no.... I dont want to get ass raped at $59 per hour by a shop, BUT I also want to ride! I am soon nearing my technical abilities as far as what I am able to do...

I was hoping for some easier to understand tips/tricks... If not, well there is always the repair shop!

I have seen this thread or ones similar to it before, but they all seem unanswered or at least unresolved, so please read and hang with me! I am having an issue here... I tore the Shee down a month or so ago to strip and paint the frame. I marked all connections carfully, and made notes as to what went where? I got it all back together this weekend and yep you got it, it did'nt start! Mother F*%#er... All the plugs were cleaned out and re-connected with dielectric grease. The spots on the frame where the ground wire goes was sanded to bare metal. All the plugs were plugged into the plug they came from... What I know... Its getting fuel/air, the plugs are wet after you kick it a few times... And I verified I am not getting spark because I held onto the plug as I kicked it over... Its a 2006 motor with like 10 hours on it, so I doubt the stator is bad. The bike ran 100% and started on the first kick before this rebuild. Does anyone know of a way to rule out each possible variable one at a time? I did read BenB's electrical FAQ, but I am a retard when it comes to electrical stuff... Any pointers would be good, as I am just about ready to take it to a shop that does electrical stuff. Thanks in advance...

replica of stock, just beafier...

It was the gauge... New gauge shows the Left Cylinder at 151psi and the Right Cylinder at 149psi... Thanks for the input...

Thanks to my PA boys, Meat, BWD, PABM... I called a few "Key" resellers and asked a few questions. This is what I was told... Around 2% of keys that are sold usually result in a customer calling back saying that the key broke or sheared off... 1/2 of these calls, the customers broke or damaged them trying to install them incorrectly. The sheared off call are most often because they are not torquing them flywheel to the proper torque setting, running them motor until its warm, and then re-torquing. 7 degree keys are reported broken/sheared more often than 4 degree keys... As for mine, it's in Fuller Lake near Pine Grove State Park if anyone wants it...

Sorry, Advance auto parts is where I got mine, and they will have to break out their catalog. They all stock the Thermocap in domestic only. They can get it for sure... AZ were idiots, they sold/sell the domestic size but told me they dont make an import size...

Yeah, if that tick turns into a rattle dont be womping on it... If they are cast pistons you could have a skirt coming apart or something doin with the pistons/rings... My neighbor learned the hard way with his blaster... Just tear it down and take a look...

$2000 for lights = stupid... Nuf said!

Just ask for a Mr. Gasket Thermocap. You want it in Import/Euro "small size" as opposed to domestic, and get the 16 psi, not the 13... 30 bucks at Autozone.

We shall see... I picked up 2 to try... I should just buy one to have in the shop.

I made a reply I was not proud of, and editied it to be more diplomatic. So yes I deleted what I originally said. lol on the MFT... I own some too!

The bottom line is... Boobies Rule!

I'm sure you could use them if the lined up and coupled correctly, but these pipe companies all say they are specifically tuned and designed for their pipes, etc... I supposed it could effect performance...?

Were they forged or cast pistons? Just curious... Also who is rebuilding your shocks, and whats the damage $$ gonna be if you dont mind me asking?

I have two testers lined up that I will use tonight... I installed a new o-ring kit and used some grease to hold them in place... They all looked to still be in place just before the head made touchdown with the jugs so I hope its not an o-ring issue... I will report back after testing... Thanx

I hope its off...

Throw them both away or sell them!!! ha ha... JK If you do mostly high rev riding keep the PT's...

I know... how f-ing dare I ask for advice! What I learned from it...? It does not make you feel any better to throw a tiny little piece of metal into a lake!

cool...

I will go so far as to say this... If that comment pisses the person reading it off, I would just about 100% say its directed directly to that person... :biggrin: