mdhc500

Thats makes two of us... NYUK has some parts waiting in the wings if need be...

Yeah, I'd agree... If the Gnarly's are similar to the Fattys (what I have) and you have the airbox OFF with a K&N, I may just start at 300's or 310's and do a plg chop right off the bat... You will prolly be at 280's or 290's, but its better to be a tad rich and work down... Also keep the needle in the 3rd spot, you should be good with the stock pilot, and try the air-screws 1.5 out to start with... Read BenB's jetting FAQ document and after you get your main's rigth just put some time on the plugs to get some color on them... You may need to drop the needle to the 4th clip if it moves at all and you can adjust the air srews as needed... Have fun... It's a learing curve but its easy when you get the hang of it...

Thanks... I think the colors were black and black with a yellow stripe??? I am going to take like 50 pics so its like having my bike hre... Dude! I hope I get this thing figured out! Thanks for all your help!

Here is the motor you were looking for! http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...c=99005&hl=

Maybe if you close one eye and kinda squint a little... You eye has to be calibrated first though... Oh and you have to hold your mouth right too!

I am working through some major electrical issues and although I am not ready to just start swapping out parts I want to get some located. Does anyone have a WORKING CDI box that has the round style plugs? $$ & Shipping to 17307 please... Thanx

The MM says .015 - .020, and mine is set at .018 (for a matter of reference)...

You know I was just funnin with ya!

Ben, The kill switch it tapped into the Black and Black with a White stripe wires. With my meter set to tone, I get continuity (or the meter beeps) when the cap is off the kill switch. When I put the kill switch cap back on the beeping stops. I tried for spark with the cap on and off the kill switch. Per the Electrical FAQ kill switch test this passes. I have a by-passed key swtich, where the Red and Black wires go to themselves. On my coil, the primary resistance was .8 ohms with continuity. Just like you I could not get any readings on the secondary. I put some good NGK wires and 5K ohm plug caps on my coil, I cleaned up all the leads and still no spark. I verified througout my entire harness that I have good ground, I touch any black wire in my harness with one lead, and touch a bare spot on the frame, and on nuts and bolts on the frame and get continuity.??? Also, something I was just trying, If I put my meter to measure DC voltage, and I put the leads on the orange and black wires that plug into the coil, I get voltage when I kick the bike over??? I seem to get voltage with or without the kill switch engaged, unless I am just doing something wrong??? I found a shop, a Kawasaki Shop of all places that said they can test my coil for $5 bucks... Dude, I am at a loss... I hope its the coil... Is it possible its something with the old T.O.R.S. BS? I have an extra plug on my harness that goes to nothing, I assumed it was for the TORS...

I think you can find out everything you need to know and then some on; http://www.quadzillahq.com LOL

Can you stick the leads from cap to cap? Yamahore wants to charge me 50 buck to test my coil, and in my face verified the way I was testing it with the multimeter was correct... I get continuity on the primary side test touch my MM leads to where the orange & black wires go, and nothing when I go boot to boot... I was told I should get continuity going boot to boot and 2000-4000 ohms restistance. I pulled the wires and I get continuity through the wires but not through the 90 degree caps... They are pretty gunked up to... Can you just see it you get a reading going boot to boot?

LMAO....

Good point, I know what its like to want to ride! If you do sell it, just let the person know what they are buying you know bro...

Yeah... last time I looked there was no Quadzillahq!!!

Ben, Have you ever registered a reading from boot to boot for the secondary resistance?

I will double check the colors... I have been testing for spark by just holding the spark plug in my hand hoping it knocks the shit out of me...

Yes, I cleaned up the metal contacts where the coil meets the frame on the coil and the frame and we have nice clean bare metal!

I'm pretty sure it's going to black/white and black. But I tested it and verified the switch works and has continuity when depressed. I have tried for spark with it on/off??? Until i get home this afternoon I wont know for sure... I am taking the coil to a huge Yamaha dealer to see if they can test it for me at lunch?

Correction... When I put the multimeter leads on the black and orange plugs of the coil I get 00.7 or 00.8, and when I move them around the numbers jump around. When I go boot to boot nothing at all happens on the meter. When I go black or orange to either or boot or any of these combinations I get nothing? I have the coil and meter here at my desk if anyone has anything for me to try?

So... Did you ever find out what it was? Also did you ever find a way to properly test the coil?

Dont try and BS that motor back together and sell it... Sell it as is so whomever buys it knows what they are dealing with... Just my .02 as we all have been burned at one time or another... Some more .02 for ya... If you got cash burning a hole in your pocket, pull the motor, take the top end off and have a builder go through it. It would be that same $$ as you would loose in buying another motor and trying to sell your mess and fixing up the new one... Ya know... Something to consider!

Mother Bitching Soma Fuckers... You should allowed to cut peoples hands off if you catch them stealing!!!

My brother has a mild port job, and he runs 13/43 with 21" rears and seems to fair pretty well. He runs 50/50 trails/dunes...

Ok... Here is an update after a late night... When the tether switch is on, the circuit is complete and I have continuity. When I pull the cap off the meter stops making noise. So... The kill switch looks ok... I verified I have good ground from the bike through the harness... The handlebar kill switch seems to be by-passed as it always has been since I've owned it... The keyswitch was by-passed as well, but I checked the connection and it looks good as well... I followed the instructions and checked the Ignition coil on the "Stator" its was 18.5 ohms I followed the instructions and checked the Pickup coil and it was 114.3 ohms, the GAP was .018 When I checked the Coil for the spark plugs I get nothing? I put one of the multimeter leads where the black wire goes, and a lead where the orange wire goes and I get not reading? I cleaned the terminals to where they were shining and if I move the MM leads around a bit I see numbers fluctuation on the multimeter but no reading... Also if I put one lead on the oragne terminal of the coil and another in either boot/cap I get no reading??? Does this mean my coil is bad? Am I doing something wrong? How can it just go bad from being removed for a few days and then re-installed??? I have done my homework guys... Can anyone offer some suggestions on the next step?

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