Meat

Let me add that the frame that I broke was an old '88 and the year it broke was around 2000, and it had alot of miles on her over those 12 years. Ya I used to love be able to hammer the 7 miles it takes to get from my house to Coal Hill and then top off the gas tank with the 1 gallon of gas, and then still have enough gas to have a fun fast ride back home. I would look for a rack that has the gas tank centered behind the bike and that has nothing blocking the exhaust pipes. My PowerCore silencers where literally an inch away from the aluminum plating on the rack and it would just get covered in exhaust crap. So ya, I wouldnt recommend the Armadillo "out and back" rack to anyone. Iridea250r, your rack looks pretty good. Tank centered behind ya, a big tank too, plus it looks like there's no exhaust pipes blowin' anywhere on the rack, hard to tell tho. How much does two gallons of premix, plus the weight of the can weigh ? Someone with an older frame, might want to consider gussets on the subframe.

Thats western Pa and Ohio seriers correct ? Im about a 4 hour drive to Pittsburg. Im in the AMA District 6 area so thats eastern PA, NJ and MD too I think. I'd be afraid of damaging something with speed shiftin'. Iv never ever done it. I'v been in a hare scramble where my clutch arm was getting REALLY tired, but I kept using the clutch, and thats about the only time where I'v even thought about shifting without the clutch. If you have enough strengh in your forearm to still pull in the clutch, I'd keep using the clutch. There's a ton of different ways to make clutchin easier.

ya i forgot about that. mine was always a oily mess, plus it always made me nervous cause the exhaust is blowin real close to that gallon of gas. one nasty backfire and I coulda been on fire ! I have to ride atleast 2 miles from my garage to get to any good riding areas, and then another two miles to get back home. I used to ride out to my favorite spots riding real slow, to conserve gas. First time I ever rode a banshee i ran it out of gas.

my favorite is the standard maxxis razors in the 20 inch size for the rears.

i had an armadillio "out and back" rack, it came with a little one gallon gas can. I was riding fast over some rough stuff one day and the rack cracked and I didnt notice it right away and kept on hammerin along, till I heard my exhaust note get louder. after the rack broke, the weight of the gallon of gas and the rack caused my frame to break right where the grab bar mounts, and that caused my left stinger pipe to break in two peices. It was a mess.

the longer shocks are defintly whats giving you all that wheel camber. I tried using 19 inch shocks with arms that required 17 inch shocks, guess what, it didnt work and one of the problems was the camber was too much. I had my ball joints screwed out as far as I could get em and that got me close to the ideal camber degree, but It was a rig job and I knew it. Iv taken off the 19 inch shocks and now use the proper 17 inchers and BAM, perfect, with all kinda camber adjustment to play with.

im another owner of a junk RS stator. I had the high output one, it never worked for me. I bought mine brand new of a dude who sells em on Ebay by the hundreds. I didnt install mine right away and I didnt keep the receipt. The dude woulndt give me a refund, even tho its obvious I bought it from Ebay and the stator looked brand new. They used to be a good company, from what I understand, they outsourced thier labor to another country and their quality went down the shitter. So fuck em. I run a stock Banshee stator now

Extra long sigs cause hub bolts to snap. fact.

whats the eye to eye lenght on those kfx shocks ??

I agree, i had both frames and you can't feel a difference. My first banshee was an '88

my 2 cents. keep the cpi's, drop a tooth and most importantly... like NYUK said... "get the feel for where the pipe comes on and learn to ride it." You have to stay on the pipe, I found with mine If I was in a gear too high, or for whatever reason that I was losing momentum or falling off the pipe, I'd just quickly lift my ass up off the seat, lean forward or do whatever it takes to get your weight off the rear tires, and at the same time twist the throttle hard, this will allow the tires to break traction and spin wildly and in a heartbeat your back on the pipe and holdin' on for dear life.

I dunno Grinchy, first thing I thought when I seen your picture is "that dont look right " But its hard to really say if its right or wrong without seeing pictures of it mounted the other way. It looks like if you'd flip your upper A-arm around, it would match the angles of the lower A-arm. I think you'd want both arms parrallel to each other. I dunno man, its a hard call. This ain't the first time this question popped up BTW. It seems that a simple set of directions from these A-arm companies would help alot of people.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- guys stay away from Cannon mini DV camcorders. I bought a helmet cam and needed a camera for it, Cannon and Sony are the only two companies that offer a nice selection of cameras that come with AV Inputs to plug a helmet cam into. So I bought a Cannon MiniDV on Ebay. It worked great when I got it, but 3 weeks later it just kept ejecting tapes as soon as you put em in and I'd get a little error message on the screen. So I start googling "tape ejecting cannon camcorders" and found TONS of info on Cannon MiniDV ejecting tapes EXACTLY how mine was doing it. There seems there's a problem with how they designed the heads and something eventually breaks so the tape wont line up with the heads... so it ejects the tape and you get the error message. The cost to fix it is like $400, plus shipping and its NOT covered on Cannons warrenties. Alot of people are very mad at Cannon because they bought a 800 dollar camera and its broke in a few months. And from what I read, if yours is not broken yet, it will eventually. Some were lasting for years, some a few weeks. There's a whole website dedicated to the Cannon tape ejection problem, there's also a whole website dedicated to a class action lawsuit againt Cannon soley on this ejection problem. So....... dont buy a Cannon MiniDV. Someone asked about flash cards and hard drive camcorders. I own an Aiptek DVR. Thats Digital Video Recorder. This thing is awsome. I found it from a recommendation from a helmet cam website. It has the AV inputs for my helmet cam !!! Plus it records in true HIGH DEF quality. It has three video settings, internet quality, DVD quality and hi-def. The camera has some small internal memory, but your supposed to use an SD card. I bought an 8GB card for $40 bucks and i can record 4 hours of video in hi-def quality. It also takes still pictures. three settings for pictures is 3, 5 ad 8 megapixels. Pictures look great. There are a few downfalls with this camera, the zoom sucks, it wasnt designed to be zooming anyways. Its only has a 4x zoom. The video format is .mov which is played in Apple's Quicktime player. And high def video played back on your computer can be slow and sketchy if you have an older computer, low ram or a basic video card. Playback on the tv plays great and the video looks really really good in high def. You can plug this camcorder into the RCA jacks of your television and record TV shows and movies onto the SD card.... and then transfer those files to your computer. It so small it fits in your shirt pocket and it has a nice clear LCD screen. The quality of the case and the buttons are sub-par to the big Japanese camcorder manufactures, but nothing has failed me yet. Only costs $140 bucks, if you shop around you can get em for $120 bucks new. I also have a Sony DVD-R camcorder and I don't like it. Any good bump in the road makes the video skip. Its impossible to go offroad without it skipping. I found the camera was relativly big compared to the smaller mini DV's. I though editing, viewing, erasing clips was harder than it should be. It was nice to be able to view scenes without having to fast forward or rewind a tape. The little DVD discs are just like any other disc, its prone to scratching and they are re-writable so you can reuse them. I wouldnt recommend this camera to anyone who video's action sports. Good for filming grandma's birthday.... yes. My third camcorder is a cheap Panasonic I picked up at Wal-mart. Its a mini-dv and its awsome. 700x digital zoom, 30x optical. $300 bucks. low end model, but the videos are fine and everything works nicely. You don't really need a digital camcorder full of special effects, fancy fades and editing features, picuture frames, etc.., you want to add those effects with the video editing software thats on your computer. video taken with the Panasonic miniDV

no no no no don't change em. quicksand a-arms ARE designed with the bend in the front. ASR and the other brands that use FireBall Racing's A-arms should have the bend on the upper A-arms towards the back. After I wrote my first post in this thread, I thought about you QuickSand guys, but didnt think anyone with QS arms would reply

ya iv seen a coupla brands of A-arms that could mount up either way. ya'd think the manufacturers would address that confusion with a simple note or a mark or something. post a picture and we'll figure it out for ya. the top arm should have straight tube and tube with a bend in it, the straight tube should be at the front of the quad and the bent tubing should be towards the rear of the quad

Its raining right now, rained alot yesterday, rained a shitload last weekend, rained cats and dogs last Friday. Hope you guys like mud and water. I think its safe to say that Coal Hill will be a big rutted mess too. Be carefull, the rain causes deep ruts to form in the coal around coal hill, ride smart. One good dry weekend and then the following weekend is usually fine, but Coal Hill gets un-ridable after this much rain. We need those die-hards out there riding the rutted hill climbs to smooth things back out.

Guys I apoligize but Im going to have to stop the auction. I truely am sorry that I have to do this, but I damaged one of the shocks shafts, and I can't sell em like that. I fucked up BIG TIME. Really pissed at myself right now, but I put a scratch in the shaft thats not pretty. Sorry folks. Now I'll have to get the shocks serviced to get the shaft replaced, once that's done I'll put em back up for sale. boy did i fuck up ruined my day

Nope, not sold yet. Im going to wrap it up soon tho. Make an offer. $425 is the current high bid. I have a set of shockwears that I'll give to the winner. They're all black but they're not actually Shockwear's brand, just knock-offs. I used em with the Elka's. Few small holes in em, but overall they're a nice set of shock covers. They're black nylon type material. I accept Paypal payments, checks, money orders, cash. I'll ship em USPS Priority and provide a tracking number.

High bid of $425. GOIN' ONCE !!!

I cleaned em up. they look great. Free shipping on these shocks to anyone in the lower 48.

ooookay. I can prolly go for the bansheebay sale. But let me say a few things about these shocks, so everyone is clear. First of all, I would recommend having them rebuilt, but there's also a very good chance that they would bolt up and ride great. I don't know for sure if they'd need rebuilt, I just don't want anyone mad at me. The shocks are almost six years old, but only used for three years, so just the time alone on the shocks would justify having them rebuilt. I think GT Thunder rebuilds both shocks for around $100 bucks. History. I bought these shocks brand new in the summer of 2002. I put alot of miles of em. I rode em for the 2002, 2003 and 2004 riding seasons. In 2005 I bought my 250r and parked the banshee except for the occasianal rip. So for '05, 06 and '07 the shocks were barely used. I am a trail rider, not an MX rider, these shocks were used for trail riding, they have never seen any racing action and not a whole hellava lot of jumps either, just trail riding. From the day I got em, I always thought the shocks were a little too soft, and I weight about 160 lbs, so you bigger dudes keep that in mind. Anyone over 160 lbs, should have them re-valved for their weight. The shocks have never been in a wreck and have nothing phsyically wrong with em. They look good. I like the idea of the shocks going to a bansheehq guy, so if you guys are still interested I'll sell em right here, Ebay style. Iv auctioned of banshee parts here before and everything worked out smooth, so I guess we can do it again. The bidding stops basically when no more bids come in, no time frame. I'll give a "goin once, goin twice" warning and someone will get a nice set of front shocks for their banshee. So after reading all of that, could guys that are interested please start the bidding over again. -denny

john I don't know what they're worth. Maybe I should do a bansheehq'bay and auction em off right here.