hercalmighty

Cool. Thanks. Great info. Zilla. It wasn't so much the rear tires it was more in the front. And 2 pounds of rotating mass can be a lot. Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

Thanks. I have been looking at them for a little while now. Just have to bite the bullet on one or the other Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

I can notice a difference with weight while riding. For example, I had two banshees set up pretty much the same way with the only difference being tires. One had ITP GNCC front and rears, the other had Kenda Klaws. The Kendas were much heavier then the GNCC and I could really notice it riding. So, weight is important to me. I'm also looking for real world experience between the two if anyone has it. As for price they are pretty close so that's not a big deal. Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

That would be awesome. I would really appreciate it Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

Hey guys. I'm looking to get a new set of rims for the front and rear. I want single beadlocks for both the front and rear. I'm trying to decide between Hiper CF1 and the DWT Champion in a Box (Rok n Lock single beadlock fronts and G2 single beadlock rear, kit CB-8 Worcs kit) I have read the pros and cons on the two as far as hipers can break vs just bend and that though they can break they are still stronger then aluminum rims. I know a bunch of guys on hear have had hipers but I was wondering who has had the DWT rims. I ride mostly woods and mx. One big thing I'm looking at is the weight difference between the two. I can't seem to find much on weight. Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

Like said above, go hot rods. Are you planning on getting the cylinders ported for the 4mil? Might want to look at other pipes. Don't do a single carb. Stick to dual carbs. Also don't do a lightened flywheel if you do trails and mx. Go with vf4 not vf3. Plan on spending 2000 on just the motor. Add at least another 2000 on a arms, swing arm and shocks Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

If I had the time and money to screw around with I would love to try doing an electronic pv setup. Sort of like what tts was trying to do. Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

It seems that the cheetah pv motors are a pita to get right. Right now I have a 7mm stroke 72mm bore cheetah pv motor. Still trying to get the thing tuned in. Awhile back someone had mentioned that there were other powervalves that would fit the cheetah cylinders other then the ones from trinity but like everything else with this motors, no one wants to talk about them Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

Does he have a website or Facebook? Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

I don't know to be honest. Since you are not near them you can't measure them. Banshee long travel shocks are usually 19.25 inches to 19.75 inches. The elkas I have for my long travel fireball arms are 19.5 inches Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

The reason guys are getting pissed off is that they told you it won't work correctly. You can make the arms fit but you will have to modify them to fit. Once they are fitted you are going to run into screwed up geometry. Another words, they will fit but your handling is going to be really messed up. Your shock angles, caster and toe are going to be wrong for the banshee frame. Plus if it's a plus +3 on a yzf it might put you at around +4 to +5 on a banshee. That is extremely wide. You will also probably have to get custom toe rods to even come close to working right. Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

He meant that you have two separate oiling systems. One is the premix that you put in your tank that oils your pistons and crank. The other is the transmision oil that oils your transmission and clutch Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

You might have to find a wiring diagram for an rz350 to make sure everything is wired correctly Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

I would really look into the powervalves and see if they are working. The pipes you have might be hurting you too Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

I liked the PWK 28s over the Stock 26s. Yes, the 28s will for stock intakes Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

Yeah. At most go 28mm carbs. But go with the v4s. Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

First things first. Go through the motor and make sure it's up to par Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

Stock carbs and go with v4s Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

If it runs like crap down low but great up top, there is a good possibility that the valves are stuck open. Take your time, listen to the guys around here, and run a bunch of test. Start with a leak down test and a compression check. Look to see if the power valves are working. If they are not, look to see if they are open or closed. Measure the intake side of the carbs to figure out what size you have Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

This is a good read Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/105993-dyno-poll-results/ Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

What do you mean "you lost your thumb" Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

Awhile ago one guy (snop) did a bunch of test between a single carb vs dual carbs. He was a huge single carb fan until he actually did a bunch of dyno testing with the two setups. After the testing he said that dual carbs maybe better power every where through the dyno curve. Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

Do you know if the power valves are functioning? Right off the bat it looks like you have a lot of work to get that thing going well. Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

Also, what CP cylinders are you looking at? Are you looking at Cub or Serval? Where did you see stage 2 porting? Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk