uwenr

18CC big bore

$150 shipped

I will take some tonight and post them. I have more than the 18CC that just what happened to in the head.

I have a used Pro Design Billet Cool Head Includes~18cc Small Bore Domes, & Cylinder Studs. You will need a new o ring kit to install this Part: PDCH-18 THIS COOL HEAD PACKAGE WILL AID IN COOLING YOUR MOTOR WHILE PROVIDING MORE POWER! $165 shipped.

Yes, I ran stock carbs on my 7 when i first built it. Drill them out, cut half of the float off and put a powerjet on it. It will work for a low budget build.

You can replace them, you have to drill the rivots out either way billet basket or replacing the cushions. http://vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/product.php?productid=11178&cat=184&page=1

Holding a GPS?? I use the ol lick my finger and stick in the air to check my top speed.

That is not normal for an override, they should be as smooth or smoother than stock

Sounds like the adjuster on the outer hub is loose

Like I said I took mine to ten and didnt have any issues besides it getting hot. Moved it back to 9, and yes you will see a difference.

Your best bet is to take it to a shop and get it bored and have them tell you what they bored it to. I wouldnt buy anything but wiseco pistons. If you are at 65.5 (1.5 over stock 64) have them bore it to 66 and get a set of wiseco pistons. Banshee stock cylinders only go to 66.5 you are getting close to the end. http://www.wiseco.com/ProductSearch.aspx the last 4 digits are the size

we run our 350s anywhere from 6 to 10. I put mine at 10 and back it down until it stops getting hot. ended up around 9. I know everyone is going to bag on me for this but thats what i run on 4 different 350s.

water pump impeller seal

Thanks thats what I was looking for. I had picked up this bottom end cheap and the crank was in it. Took it to metaltech and they said the rod and bearing are good. Fully rebuildable

with some work you can make a stock plate go up to about 4 1/2 or buy a ricky stator for 45 that goes up to ten. Easy choice

Can someone tell the difference between the 4 mil +5 rod and the 4 mil stock rod. Logic tells me moving the rod 4mm is 4mm no matter how long the rod is. A longer rod will raise the piston but still have the same stroke. Then you put stroker or blaster pistons in it to lower the top of the piston down. I'm confused! I get the less stress on the sides but what about power? more less same?

read this first http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=117548

Do you really think someone is going to read this thread and buy that motor from you? You are high you couldnt even give it away now. And when you reply all worked up take a deep breath and type slow so we all can read it. You get all bent out of shape and dont type in english then its harder to laugh at you. This has to be a joke!

No videos, to hard in the dark and dust. Will have to wait until winter time in the daylight.

Is this even english? I dont know you from the next guy but reading this post you do sound like a d bag.

No but it is very entertaining, 6 pages of name calling all trying to sell a motor. Dude give up already, no one is going to buy it after all this.

We will be racing in Gila Bend this Saturday. Hit me up if you need directions.

66.5, stock is 64 so you have plenty of life left

The only thing I dont like about the pj is the idle ajustment is on the chock knob. And i've heard that ajusting it that way will lean out at wot. The pwk has a set screw for the slide

bore it and wiseco pistons