uwenr

Mine looked stock when i first built it. 7 mil stock cylinder, stock chambered head stock carbs comverted to alky with half the float cut off for more fuel in the bowl and the powerjets facing the inside. Couldnt see them from the side, inframe cpi's, 2-5 override, and even a boost bottle. That would hang with any 4 mil cub and people would come over take my seat off and inspect the bike. But after looping it over a couple of times, it has a 12 over swinger and +2 out the front lsr a arms and big bore out frames. Not much a sleeper any more.

It has been closed for a while, long story but if you want to read what happened check planet sand

Offer still stands 250 shipped.

Try switching the plug wires and see if the problem moves to the other side. Then switch the carbs, if they are stock you will have to do something with the choke tube in between them. Just for testing i would just plug the holes. That should help you isolate the problem.

You're probably going to have to sawzaw it off between the frame and swingarm on both sides. It sounds like the bolt rusted to the sleeve. Mine did the same thing had to buy a new bolt and dust caps.

There is a builder here in phoenix that will cut and chamber a stock head for strokers. I doubt he will tell you what to do but im sure he will cut it for you. PM me if youre interested.

Yes mine where leaking between the rubber boot and the aluminum.

There is a difference in the years of blaster axles. I think the 04 and later are the same just 3" narrower. The older ones have different size splines for the wheel hubs. And yes it will work just fine, we use them on the drag bikes for a cheap narrow axle.

Toomey T5 is a good around pipe.

Like these, CPI did these but any PC place will do them

Should only need them for 100+ hp.

In Phoenix, Metaltech will true and weld them for like $35.

Before replacing all the bushings make sure its not the ball joint, fyi they are not replaceable.

WHY? What a waste, do all that motor work and no override, PT pipes???

Just read your other post, i say you have a crank problem, lower rod bearing or main bearing or it is out of phase.

yes i have bought a few kits from them and for 185 you get the top end kit. Not going to find it cheaper than that

Did you pick up the crank new or used, if i remember right you got it used. Degree tdc of both pistons to make sure the crank is not out of phase.

I wouldnt cut the springs, a lot of people do but it will effect how fast the slides close. Try to clean the cable and assembly, and then get a thumb throttle extention http://www.modquad.com/catalog/product_inf...products_id=707

Ride it like you stole it, rebuild whenyou blow it up.

You need to list your mods, carbs and jets.

The switches on the bars do not have to be plugged in, but the red and black for the key needs to be looped together. And stop with all the colors already.

stock

If it ever does run good luck keeping it on the ground. I have a little stock cylinder 7 mil with the same swingarm and +2 out the front a arms and it stands up half the time.

If your turning your bike into a strictly drag bike you will need to get rid of the T5s. They are a good all around pipe but will hold a 4 mil back.

This may be a stupid question but how long has it been since you changed it last. Sound like normal wear on the clutch especially if its been a while for the oil change.