Chariot Performance

If it is the two piece head then we used to make them for Vito's but not the first ones (those were from elsewhere). The one in the picture was a two piece and we made that one for Vito's. We do not make the one piece heads for Vito's nor do we make anything else for them now. We made all of his billet parts at one time. Just an additional "surprise".

Very good point! I don't believe there is a conspiracy in China to kill our kids, unlike terrorists. America business has done a good job of killing people also and mistreating employees. The leaded toys for example are always manufactured for American companies who don't dilligently police the manufacturers and or are responsible for the design flaws (cribs that kill kids etc.). Having said that I would never ask anyone to go against their conscience and purchase items made in china. I am all for American but in a lot of cases small business can't stay in business unless they work with third world manufacturers.

Wow! I am compelled (sounds like demon posession) to disagree. I understand the anger for the auto industry part in the economy failure but they played a small part. I buy american unless I have to pay three times as much because I am an individual or a small business. When products here are forced to go through three layers of distribution so the rich can get a piece of every sale then I go overseas to purchase. For example, why pay $.40 for a nut that I can buy for $.03 in china.

Rubbing should not cause shavings here unless the impeller is tightly pressed against the cover. Maybe the pin holding the plastic gear is somehow mislocated or the washer is up tight against the case (inner). Take a straight edge from one side of the side cover to the other. The washer should clear the straight edge. If it does not then you have a serious problem with the impeller setup. If you can't find the problem (should be obvious) then the hole (plastic gear pin) location in relation to the impeller is wrong. Throw it away and buy a different brand if that is so. Jerry

Thanks a lot for the business and the comments. We are gonna have some paintbrushed products soon and will post pictures as soon as we have some finished. Thanks Jerry

Yes, at the screw holes. We took our cages and changed that curve just as you did. We changed that curve, leaving all other variables the same, about 20 different confiurations from squared off to more of a curve than stock. We only tested the changes on the flow bench and found that the stock curve was close to the best flow.

If ported right you gain about 20% more flow. Removing the tip about 3/16" back is a big factor. Squaring off the cage at the top of the pedal is bad. You can square off the insides at top of the pedals but not outside. The stock radius is just about perfect for flow. Even better is to get blaster cages (stock) and cut the flange and drill the flange to fit the banshee. Stock blaster cage, if I remember correctly is about 20% better than a correctly ported banshee cage. Or you could by our cage, of course and get the best performance. If you have the pedals already then our cages are $120.00 for the set. $162.00 with reeds. Thanks Jerry

The dowel pin is necessary for the gear to turn. If it is an aftermarket impeller then it is possible the hole location for the dowl or the location of the c clip groove is wrong. If either is wrong then the pin could fall out or the washer will rub on the case causing problems. Three possibilities exist: 1)wrong locations as noted above 2)dowel not inserted when installed 3)bearing froze up and dowel rubbed to pieces till it fell out. I would believe either 1 or 2. If stock then 2 is likely the culprit. If aftermarket then 1 is likely also. If the locations are wrong then the washer tight against the case would wear out the aluminum a tthe case and the plastic gear where it seats against. When the plastic gear wears then the dowel could fall out.

We have two choices on ebay. A standard aftermarket design impeller (same as most other aftermarket impellers). We also have a deeper impeller "ultra" and it does a better job at equalizing the temperature through the cases and cylinder by increasing the flow rate. On most engines it does not lower the temperature more than our standard does at exit of the head which is fine. I am sure this will end up a debated topic and possibly a long thread after my next statement. I will pose the statement as a question. If an impeller lowers the temp throughout the cases and cylinders by equalizing the temp through higher flow rate but rarely lowers it at the exit of the head back to the radiator then what is being accomplished? My answer is that an impeller does not affect the heat made by the engine. The generated heat is the same but the way it is carried away is different. The largest advantage of higher flow rate is the more even dispersal of heat over the course of flow (the distance of fluid travel). Unless the difference in flow rate is extreme then right at the source of heat very little temperature difference will be noticed.

Definitely replace the studs from the hardware. I don't know who to recommend but many sponsors on here are likely to have them.

I didn't think you were putting our product down. I just used the opportunity to point out that we do in fact offer domes of high quality. Thanks Jerry

David, Thanks for the reply. I was meaning to show you a lot of respect in our reply. "In your back pocket" was not meant to be derogatory, but true it did need clarification. I just meant that I acquire knowledge from a lot of the same builders for our standard domes. We don't cut custom domes and do acknowledge that you have tremendous service and great pricing. Further we haven't heard anything but great reviews and comments about your products both from customers and dealers. Jerry

Coolant volume is easily achieved with a one piece head. As you stated though volume is not the key. direction and flow and "not impeding flow are the keys. Our head performs as well as the Noss head. The Noss head is a good head just a different style. As far as domes we have cut thousands but we do not cut custom domes. Noss is the guy for custom domes, no doubt. As far as cookie cutter domes ours are not. Any builder who has used our domes and cut them will tell you that our aluminum is harder by far than any other aluminum used by other dome manufacturers. Yes, we use 6061 t6511 while many others use only 6061 or 6061 t6. The main difference, for that section size material, is simply the artifical aging which produces toughness (to be simple). Toughness is very important for banshee domes because of the thin oring retaining wall on the dome. In addition we use the highest, absolutely highest quality aluminum you can purchase. Cut on one of our domes and cut on any other dome out there and you will easily see the difference in toughness I am referring to. You may even brake your tools if you cut like you were cutting other domes. As far as the dome being only as good as the designer, I can reply again. Once again, Noss does a great job and knows domes. I doubt that he has any engine builders in his back pocket who are any better than the ones I aquire knowledge from. Having said that we do not do custom domes so in that respect we have cookie cutter domes-but. But we have design characteristics in ours which others don't because they accomodate the guys who take any dome and any gasket and don't check squish or even consider it. We accomodate those who want a performing dome.

Thanks for the reviews guys. Yes, we have had mixed reviews from buyers. Some have had lower temps everywhere and some not at the guage but before the coolant makes it to the exhaust area. Some haven't reported any difference from the last setup they had. Thankfully at the end of the day no one has negative results (hotter engines) after our impeller is installed. There are quite a few out there now so hopefully more of them will post here. I know that I direct many many customers to this site to get setup advice I am not qualified to give. Thanks again to the hq crew and our customers. Jerry

I am actually in Colorado on an elk hunt. No luck with the elk though, it seems they are all miles into the forrest. Next year we will be prepared for a seven mile hike into the forrest.

The pictures posted above are good to look at. The bottom wheel is the only one you want for aluminum mostly because it keeps air flowing and doesn't allow the alum to get as hot. Too much heat is very bad when polishing aluminum. The compounds look like stainless compounds to me. I would not recommend them for aluminum. Compounds not only polish but they impart color to the part. Formax A4 and A5 are the best I have found for billet alum.

You simply can't get something from atozone which will work. The link I posted is very fair pricing. Cast aluminum is more difficult to polish and you would start with abrasives, abrasive wheels or sandpaper. Others could give better direction when starting on cast aluminum.

polishing stuff Use brown tripoli with a golden boy bias wheel. On a grinder that turns 3450 rpm use abot an 8" wheel not larger. The absolute best compound to use is formax A4 then formax A5 for the extra shine (although almost unnoticeable). Just A4 is fine. Easy instructions for billet is 5or6 times back and forth on the same spot 2" to 3" of motion in length. After that move over and 5 or 6 times. After 1 minuite touch the compound to the wheel for about 2 to 3 seconds. After 5 minuites use a rake on the wheel for about 4 seconds and re apply compound. Repeat this pattern until you are happy with the finish. The A4 is the easiest to use and not destroy the part. The brown tripoli is most common for industrial shops because it cuts a little faster but is a little less forgiving. A4 polished parts look better with no doubt. Do not mix compounds on the wheel or part. A4 also cleans off the part easier. Mothers is a touch up compound for already polished parts.

Notice the features such as overflow tube.Mikuni Bowls

We sell them parts and they are closing-closed. Hopefully we get paid what is due . Jerry

We are still getting some mixed reviews. Improvements with some and the same with others on the outlet hose anyway. We don't have enough to determine which setups benefit the most yet.

I am not sure if we fixed that problem. If there are not casting flaws I am sure the oring will seal. I believe our new larger bowls should not leak around the threads because our fasteners have a nice square shoulder and our surface is machined with no cutter mark that the fluid will follow. Maybe it still does on some? I wonder if a piece of electrical tape or teflon tape as a washer would work well. I t should.

I have a 4mm cub on my bike and they fit great no space issues or clearance issues.

Vince (Vito's Performance) has built a blaster to take to the salt flats and have the fastest blaster in the world. I believe he has had it there and had a very high speed wipeout. I am sure he is going back and will have a very fast bike. No matter whether you use his parts, he knows his stuff! Every builder who has been around knows him and knows he is good at building bikes.

Unfortunately for the consumer, we don't have any discounts. Unlike a lot of other manufacturers who also sell parts retail, we protect our dealers by imposing minimum sale prices and that is what we sell at. Other manufacturers undercut their dealers but we do not. Occasionally on parts which for some reason don't sell well we discontinue them and may have clearance prices but those clearance prices are typically available to dealers. Thanks Jerry