bansheejoel

mine did the EXACT same thing and it came out to be one of the wires that runs to the cdi box touched the silencer stinger by where the pipes meet the silencers and it was shorting out on the metal....i taped it up and it ran perfect again!!!!

i ordered the kit jeff sells so hopefully i wont smoke this one with 5hrs on it like i did that tusk one.....i think it was my fault though, i dont think i had it adjusted properly.....is there any tips anyone could tell me so i dont smoke my new $95 clutch and $50 worth of new clutch hubs? i thought i knew what i was doing on the other clutch and that damn thing is toast i dont feel like doing that again lol.....and am i supposed to run those o-rings or w/e in the clutch basket? or do i run it with nothing except fibers and steels? thanks

thanks guys i think im going with the fast clutch...and yeah 70 shipped for a tusk is a total rip off i bought mine for 35 with the gasket off ebay

would you buy the one f.a.s.t. sells, vitos, ebc, barnett. etc.....i put a tusk kit in mine and now rocky mountain is sold out of them and i think i fried mine so im looking to buy a new one...what would be my best bet....i dont know if my clutch frying is my fault or just a shitty clutch but i just need a good reliable clutch, im sick of taking this thing apart what would you guys recomend? thanks

thanks man

is your tors black box disconnected? are you getting power to and from your stop switch and ignition? are your plugs caps on good?

word^^^^

im in if i can get this damn clutch together and working right.....if not im still going to meet up with ya for that grill :beer:

yeah there a very nice tire....and they throw a shit load of sand :beer:

when you change your gear lube should there be a little bit of FINE shavings of stuff in the oil?

both times ive changed my gear oil it has only had maybe 2-3 hrs max on it and there was shiny shavings mixed in with the gear oil in the bottom of my case under my clutch is that normal? i know that things wear and there will be some but i didnt know if it should do it so often....its not like pieces or anything just REALLY REALLY FINE shavings....i just went and checked and the basket wiggles about half the thickness of a penny....

yup

yup i have it exactly that way....i have the first washer, then the large metal spacer/bushing that the basket rides on, then the basket, then the large washer, then inner hub, then lock washer, then nut, tightened down to 66 ft. lbs....its doesnt wiggle alot just enough for me to move it, maybe the thickness of a penny or so. when its tightened down all the force is on the large bushing/spacer not on the basket itself, correct?

thanks man

shit man, im broke already lol..i bought the shee for $1500 which was a good deal b/c it was in good shape but damn ive got already got around $3300 into it since i bought it in january. my gf is getting pist b/c ALL my money is going toward that now....thats fine haha but i want it to work the way it should after i put the money into it. I dont mind spending the money if the shit works but so far it hasnt..............theshee banshee-man said there shouldnt be any movement? so a little bit of "wiggle" is ok? shit b/c that metal spacer was expensive lol

what would happen if i ran it this way? i plan on buying a new billet basket next winter along with many other things.....would it be fine to run it this season or will it break something? i would rather be safe than sorry but if its ok to run worn out bushings for this year ill do that....

yeah im sure lol, i quess im doing a shitty job explaining whats going on...its not going in and out...if i put one hand on the top of the basket and one hand on the bottom and pull with one hand and push with the other it moves, kinda like your trying to wiggle a rim off of a car....the play is comming from between the copper spacer thats pressed in the basket and the large metal spacer/bushing that the basket rides on.......and theshee it doesnt move back and forth when i grab the gear but if i have the basket on the shaft and the crank gear grabs it i can turn it back and forth a little bit....can i get a new copper bushing pressed into my basket?? thanks

no, the rivets are tight. The cushions are prolly shot b/c i can move it back and forth a little bit but what i am talking about is the clutch basket is able to move front to back (push and pull) when the inner hub is on and the nut is tightened down.....its like the big bushing/spacer or the copper bushing in the basket is worn out so i ordered a new bushing/spacer from fast today and i am planning on getting a new copper bushing pressed into the basket. has any of you guys ever put a new copper bushing in your basket? I am thinking about buying a new billet basket but if the damn copper bushing in the basket is shot what the point?

it moves a little bit by turning it then it stops then you can turn it the other way but thats b/c of the cushions...the wiggle im talking about is you can pull it toward you, and push it away from you it moves maybe maybe 1/16th inch....i can see that its the big bushing/spacer and the copper basket bushing is where its comming from..i ordered a new bushing/spacer from f.a.s.t along with some new clutch hubs..can the copper bushing in the basket be pressed out and a new one pressed in? thanks

before i first took off my clutch basket it didnt wiggle at all then i put it all back together now it is able to wiggle a little bit. Its almost like the basket isnt tightening down or something...the inner clutch hub is tight and doesnt wiggle at all....what could it be? the two washers touch on the large metal bushing so when you tighten it down all the force is on the bushing, its not actually tightening down the basket right? i think maybe my copper bushing inside my basket of worn out...are they hard to replace? thanks

what could cause it to be able to wiggle a little bit a bad bushing?

im running honda hp...ive tried gear saver as well. if there is just my clutch basket and my inner clutch hub with the nut tightened down should my clutch basket be able to wiggle a little bit? just want to make sure thats ok because mine does a little bit thanks

well that makes me feel a little better i quess...i think since its all apart im going to buy a new inner clutch hub atleast....thanks for the input

it only creeps at high rpm's.....its wierd like for example...if i pull in the clutch and get the rpm's maybe around 7000 it will creep then release...creep then release...like it only creeps for a second then releases then does it again and again.

the clutch hubs i was looking at are stockers i thought...they are only $50 for the both of them...i just dont know what to do anymore the damn clutch is torn apart more than its together....if i buy the new inner and outer clutch hubs along with a new clutch and cable do you think that will solve it or is there more to it than that...thanks...im just sick of taking it apart and putting it back together without any change....