bansheejoel

first off i will say im glad that you can back up your v-10 and give me specs, im supprised to see that it has that much torque. Im not trying to be a dick or anything but personally i would take a diesel over a gas (fullsize truck) anytime, besides for fuel prices. You are correct on there factory turbos being kinda iffy, and the injectors being junk. That being the reason my dad got a different turbo and different injectors. Every truck is going to have its problems untill they figure out all the bugs. Also oil changes dont cost $100 fuel filters are cheap as are oil filters, the most expensive thing is the oil b/c it takes so much. The only thing i dont belive is that you get 14 mpg out of it on the highway. I had a 1999 f-150 with the 5.4 triton and that fucker got around 14 and thats lighter and has two less cylinders. I dont want to be a prick or anything, i dont come on this site to start shit but if i see someone talking shit about something i like im going to ask them why they have a problem. Other than that maybe sometime this summer i can show you some DIESEL POWER up at silver lake and we can line them up. You clearly like your v-10 and i clearly like any turbo diesels.

i wish i had a "doller" for everytime a dumbass like you thinks v-10's are the shit. If there so badass why doesnt ford make them anymore? :yelrotflmao: and they stopped putting 7.3's in early 2000's so its a 6.0. LOL. i can tell this is going to go on and on with you. I dont really give a shit but dont rag on diesels they are a hell of alot more engine than that v-10 will ever be. So have fun putting gas in a truck that gets maybe 8mpg . I will stick with a diesel truck that gets 16mpg and has more power/torque than a "v-10"

its alright man, its up for sale now as i fucking fryed yet ANOTHER clutch and this time it was a $95 fast clutch...and YES they are fryable! So its up for sale so if anyone wants a quad with EVERYTHING new in the clutch with oem parts let me know im pist

and some Gasser has to go there and beatup on those crappy oil burning diesels every ones and a while. lol crappy oil burning diesels? ok, first off stock for stock i would rather take a diesel anyday besides the price of fuel but they sure as hell get better mpg than that v-10. my buddy had a f-250 with a v-10 in it and my dad has a 2004 f-250 powerstroke with propane injection, chip, bigger injectors, banks exhaust and a banks turbo kit and it will SMOKE that v-10 anyday those things are gutless. You can have your supercharger i would take a turbo diesel put 5k into it and smoke your ass, in a race and pulling. Ofcource a stock diesel against a supercharged v-10 is going to lose but a stock powerstroke will still kick its ass in towing hands down. I dont care what you say, my vote is for "crappy oil buring diesels"

im not asking for exact specs. or anything just a general question, so im looking for a general answer so i dont fuck up $400 worth of new clutch shit. Dont worry about it man if i screw it up i screw it up. Its kinda hard to learn if my shee is going to fry another clutch or not. I thought i did it correct the first time and its toast, oh well i have money growing on the trees in my front yard anyway no big deal. :thumbsup:

sounds like a retarded way to spend a grand.

ok guys i got it all together but am waiting on getting gear lube untill tommarow. Now when i push on the lever that is "supposed" to line up with the case mark i want it a little bit to the stator side correct? So as long as there is play in that lever and not tight i should be good right? Thanks

i was wondering if its possiable to break a trans gear by tightening down the clutch basket nut. I wouldnt think so b/c the engine puts out more force than 66ft lbs. if you were to dump the clutch....what do you guys think?

i was just looking for some other ways to adjust the clutch other than going by the manual and how much play in the clutch is correct as far as how much you can move the lever that the clutch cable is connected to....i went by the manual the first time and i thought i did it right and i f'd it up and dont feel like screwing up my new clutch. thanks

hey guys i just got all my clutch stuff in...new oem basket, oem inner and outer clutch hubs, new oem basket bushing and new f.a.s.t clutch kit. I thought i knew how to adjust my clutch but last time i did it i fried my old clutch and dont feel like doing it again...any help to what works best would be nice....i already went by the clymer manual and that didnt work for shit either...i have a aftermarket clutch lever, could it be im not getting enough pull? thanks

i agree, I would try some 27.5's or 25's. i am at about 610ft above sea level and im running 25 pilots with no problems at all. Throw in some smaller pilots and see what happens

i got sick of dealing with trying to fix 13 year old clutch componets so o broke down and bought everything new....complete oem clutch basket, oem inner and outer clutch hubs, f.a.s.t. clutch kit, and new clutch basket bushing....if this damn thing fits loose or doesnt work right i am going to shit!!! $378.41 later everything is on order........

those nerfs almost look as badass as those elka piggybacks :thumbsup:

same thing happened to one of my a-arm bolts on my gfs quad...they are a BITCH to get out when they rust solid in there expecially when there rubber mounted (swingarm isnt i dont think), have fun :laugh:

how old is the bronze bushing on it? i dont feel like buying a $170 setup with another bad bushing i already have one of those lol....you said yours fit loose to so you bought a new billet basket and that didnt fix the problem.....im taking it thats the one that fit loose right??

i talked to jeff at f.a.s.t and he said that t-rex makes them but they are all out of them...i think im going to go to my local yamaha dealer tommarow and see if they can get me one...i would rather buy just that rather than the whole new oem yamaha setup if im going to buy a billet basket soon anywase.....

yeah i know but so far the only way i can see getting that new bushing is to buy a new stock basket and thats $169.99 then buying a billet basket is $150 so thats like $320 just for a damn copper or bronze bushing and a billet basket b/c i wont need the new stock basket so thats a waste if im going to buy a new billet basket soon anywase...i dont have that kinda money for the clutch componets thats outrages.

if you, or anyone can find one of these could you let me know...i want to go to a billet basket next winter and dont feel like buying a complete setup just to get a new bushing...thanks

yup, thats the bushing im talking about....ive tired to find some but so far no luck...im going to my local engine builder that also has 3 banshees that he drags at the michigan drags or w/e right by silver lake...with a little luck he might be able to press me in one...il let you know how it goes...thanks for the input guys i appreciate it

yeah but your running a hinson basket but you still have the stock back with the gear on it and the same copper bushing im talking about.......has anyone put a new copper bushing in there basket hub?? if so where did you buy it from? thanks....

ok i quess i should re-phrase it....would you run them?

its the complete basket that is wiggleing on the bushing.....i can see right where its comming from, its comming from inbetween the large metal bushing/spacer and the copper bushing that is pressed into the basket....the copper bushing in the basket rides on the large metal spacer/bushing.....its like either the copper bushing is wore or the metal bushing/spacer is wore....i ordered a new metal bushing/spacer from f.a.s.t. so all thats left is that copper bushing that rides on it....can those be pressed out and a new one pressed in?

so a little movment of the clutch basket is normal correct? not left and right movment but rather push and pull movement....just want to make sure before i put it all together with the new inner and outer hubs and new clutch....

im not trying to sound like a dick either but the only answer i got about the o-ring or w/e was not to run it with a aftermarket basket...im running the stock basket so can anyone tell me...do i have to run them or what?

i was just out in the garage looking at the stock clutch adjustment setup and then looked at my pancake bearing setup and im not positive i have it right.....when you get a pancake bearing you just take the hex nut off and slide the adjuster in the pressure plate then put the nut back on right? b/c the old one had like a hex nut built into it and it went into the hex part of the pressure plate and didnt move and the new pancake bearing is round where the stocker is hex so the pancake can spin on the pressure plate, i dont understand why its round where the stocker is hex if it has the bearing to spin why is it round there so that can spin to? can anyone shine some light on this for me, it seems kinda half assed and would seem like the pancake adjuster being round would just wear on the pressure plate where its hex