Wildcardracing

You're gonna have to go up, probably a couple of sizes and do a plug chop. More air = the need for more fuel

410 mains, that's HUGE!! Especially with FMF's and stock carbs with an airbox. I only run 320's and I got CPI's and pod filters. Don't know what your elevation is but 410 would be huge at sea level. Run it I guess, but I got a hunch your gonna be way rich.

That's a damn good point, also my experience has been that they always read a few pounds lower warm as oppossed to cold. That was the only real ? asked in the original post, later he asked about the #'s and that depends on info we don't know. I always double check compression after the engines broken in good. Jonny i hope shee runs awesome for ya bud.

I only told him it could be right depending on the squish clearance and chamber work.

If your head had .060 shaved off then they had to rechamber it for squish clearance, so 145ish could be right depending on how much squish they set and your elevation. That is a good compression number for premium pump gas, and the cyls are only off by 4lbs which indicates it is a faily healthy top end. I like to see them within 5lbs of each other.

Thanks fellas!

Yup, cold air is more dense than hot air.

You're gonna have a tough time findin someone with 1 week turnaround time. I'd look to buy a set of ported ones used, just make sure they are at a 65mm or less bore. Also make sure the work was done by a reputable builder and the port type fits your intended riding style. slo

Thanks bud.

Was just wondering if anyone knows the website address for chariot performance, did a search and couldn't find anything. Thanks, -slo

I wonder if the crank is true??

You can get a good used stock crank for less than $100, if you're set on new then why not do the 4mil since you're buying a new crank anyways. Go for the extra power potential. However keep in mind that stepping up to a 4mil will cost a few hundred more than just the extra $50 that the crank will cost.

No problem, sweet paint job :thumbsup:

no, just eliminates the headaches associated with tors and the p.i.t.a. boxes on top of the carbs

8mm x1.25 pitch

Nope, depends on the make/model of the bike...some are different lengths/diameters. I'm pretty sure that most if not all of the ones for the banshee have the same dimensions, but be sure you get one for the right size of axle ie: 40mm or 35mm

I think you'll be happy, never heard a bad thing about Kev's work :thumbsup:

agreed

That works too. I prefer to move the bracket as opposed to bending it myself.

No problem, just a little trick I though I'd pass on.

open the drain valve on the carb on the bad side and see if the float bowl is getting fuel, how is your carb sync? Just a couple of things to look at.

There is a lot of work done on the intakes of your cylinders, but as mentioned earlier that is a very very small part of how a port job performs. Do you have access to a cam degree wheel?? If you do then mount it to your flywheel, pull your head off and tell us in degrees of rotation how long the exhaust port is open and also how long the transfer ports are open as these are two of the biggest factors in how a port job should perform. If not, measure from the deck of the cylinder to the roof of the exhaust and transfer ports. Also measure the width of the exhaust port and snap some pics so we have an idea on the shapes. Also, your 10pdls are probably slowing you down vs his 8's and your engine may be fighting itself at high rpms with 18cc domes at sea level. Back your compression off, gear up some and run some 8pdl's and it'll be a whole different race. -slo

Yamalube 2R 40:1 :thumbsup:

I would say some 20x11x10 in the rears and 21x7x10 in the front. The 20 rears are a good all around use size and the 10 inch rims will give you a little less sidewall flex than the stock 9's.

Probably no more than 320 mains, I would say closer to 300's at sea level, I ran 280's with about that same setup (+4 plate and no ceramic coating) at 5000' elevation (not sure how many meters that is...lol) probably run a 30 pilot. Do a plug chop to verify your jetting.