Wildcardracing

i think your pro-circuits will do just fine, they're a pretty good midrange pipe.

You're outa luck trying to run the drag ported cylinders you have now with a 4mil. You will end up with way too much transfer duration. If your cylinders were cut by a big name builder or have some impressive time slips to go with them you may get some good $$ out of them, then start with some virgin cylinders for the 4mil.

I don't see how Dave's comment was missleading at all. He's just saying there is a lot of room for improvement in the stock cylinders, not much room for improvement in the aftermarket ones. As for boring the nikasil cylinders, they sometimes do need bored if they are damaged beyond the plating.

If it's not bent too bad, you may be able to pull it without cutting it. Forgot to tell you to loosen the chain, this will make it easier to pull out.

Timing and increased compression are the two best ways to smooth out the power.

Which side is it bent on? If on the sprocket side, you'll likely have to cut the axle to get it out. If on the brake side it's much easier. To remove it you'll have to remove your hubs and undo the lock nuts next to the sprocket, then just pull it out from the brake side. Make sure to check your swinger really close, I've rarely seen one hit hard enough to bend the axle and not damage the swingarm and or carrier.

Not sure if I'm going to make it or not as of yet, Matt invited me too. I may make it out for a morning ride on friday.

Yes, those are the stock roof heights. You will lower the port floors only 2mm from where they are now, that will put you at @56mm from the port floors to the deck. This way your piston crown will be flush with your floors at BDC. Your domes will have to be custom stroker domes, the machinist building them will want to know your exhaust duration ie: 196 deg. and that they are for a -2mm deck height. The size will depend on altitude, 19 or 20cc domes will work well with 110 at sea level. I would recommend no more than +4 on the timing with 19's no more than +6 with the 20's. Hope that answers your questions.

I don't recommend big bore sleeved stockers. The transfer area is already choked without the big bore sleeves...which only cuts into your transfers worse. Without welding the transfers, more power can be made with stock sleeves. Also, if these are used jugs it will depend on what sleeve was installed how far they can be bored out. Also, have they already been ported? If so, for what stroke?? You may not be able to re-cut them for the 4mil. Just my .02.

Are you comrpressing the suspension to adjust the chain??? I swear by steel sprockets for duning, for drag aluminum will suffice...but, how many times on the strip do you have your chain and sprocket burried in the sand?? I watched a budy eat 2 aluminum sprockets in one weekend at the dunes. I've been running a factory blaster sprocket (40t) with no skid plate for three seasons now with no problems...I know, should have changed it 2 seasons ago, lol.

I've got a good friend with a 525 ktm xc that has spent more time in the shop than ridden too. All of it has been engine problems. Knocked the valve seats in last fall and lost a retainer the first ride out of the shop so it ate a piston first thing this year. Spent a long time waitin for parts to come in both times. Don't know if it's the shop he's been takin it to or the bike.

Personally on my port jobs, I do a full reshape of the intakes...but, enlarge them only enough to clean up the casting flaws. I try to enhance flow characteristics as much as possible without slowing down intake velocity. This is one area where a lot of builders disagree. Ask any five builders what intake size/shape/texture works the best and you'll likely get five different answers. I have experimented a lot with auxillery ports and found that they actually slow my engines down some. There are builders who swear by them, but I haven't found them to give any advantage in my portwork. I know what works best for me, but what works best for someone else may be different.

I made my own, but you might check tdr (tony doukas racing) F.A.S.T. and mmatv. Some of these places may have a kit...not sure. Someone else may chime in here with a good place to buy an entire kit. I just used some rubber expansion plugs for the exhause side and welded caps with valves in them on some tubing for the intake side. Then I just use my compression guage with the schrader valve removed in the spark plug holes, works quite well.

The easiest but unfortunately most expensive way would be to have a shop do it. You will need two expansion plugs for the exhaust(pipe removed), a compression guage(with removable schrader valve) or pressure guage and two plugs with a schrader valve to clamp in your intake boots. You will pressurize the crankcase to 6psi and watch the clock. It should hold for 6min. If it doesn't you can use soapy water all around your gaskets and seals to find the leak. Hope that helps.

Sounds like you have a short in your multifunction switch harness or your key switch harness. Trace your wires and look for worn or bare spots, most suspect area is the keepers next to your steering stem mount. Have fun!

Well, looks like your wanting an aggressive dune port to be honest. CPI's live real nice around 196 deg of exhaust duration. Given a -2mm deckheight(no plate with stroker domes)that would put you at @26.78mm from the deck to the port roof. On the transfer ports you should cut them between 127 and 130 deg to have proper timing, depending on rider weight. The more transfer duration, the smoother the power delivery but a little less overall power at peak. So 127deg =43.05mm, 128 deg=42.85mm, 129deg=42.64mm and 130deg=42.44mm. All of those measurements are from the deck of the cylinder to port roof based on a -2mm deck. Add 2mm to the measurement if running a plate. Hope that helps. Good luck. As a note, I take absolutely no responsibility if it doesn't turn out right. But, I won't discourage anybody from porting thier own engine. Every builder had a first port job and most have learned the hard way through trial and error.

If it has an air leak it will act like it's lean because it is lean. I'd have a leak down test done to be certain it's good. It should hold 6psi in the crankcase for 6 minutes. Also, did you look at your pilot jets real well? you should be able to see a little bit of light through them, they can be a !@#$ to get clean after sitting for any length of time. My honest bet is an air leak though.

Looking for a good 4mil long rod crank, Let me know what you have.

When you cleaned your tank, did you inspect and clean the petcock real well??. My honest suspision is that you're crank seals have dried out on you while it was in storage and you now have an air leak. Sitting and not being used is in many cases the hardest thing on an engine.

Lean=too small of main jets, needle too low, too small pilot/not enough fuel per intake air charge=burn down Rich=too large of main jets, needle too high, too large pilot/too much fuel per intake air charge=poor performance, fouled plugs, hard starting Stoich=perfect jetting/optimal fuel-air charge=optimal performace, easy starting, long engine/plug life

Don't run your stock air filter with the lid off, the lid holds the stock filter in place. Get yourself a pro-flow kit with a k&n(if not real dusty where you ride) or a foam filter(if dusty), then you can run with the lid off. Bone stock at sea level to 1000' I would start at 280's and do a plug chop to verify your jetting with the t-5's. You don't absolutely need new needles. Your next mod should be a good air filter setup then a timing plate. You will have to rejet for the filter as well, but not for the timing plate or cool head. I would say to get the filter, plate and head before you spend any $$ on reeds, they do very little for power and only add some low end throttle response.

Millenium and U.S. Chrome are the only two I've dealt with, expect to pay around $200+ each cylinder. If there's no gouges in the plating, I wouldn't waste my $$ on it.

That sucks man. Where did you go, LS or Pink??

Right from the factory your transfer port area on your top case is smaller than the lower transfer ports on your cylinders (which are allready choked). Case porting is when you match the case to the cylinders and cut the base gasket to match as well. It gives the fuel air mixture are more direct route from the crank case into the cylinders. This will actually help power all the way through the rpm range. I would say gains are from 2-5 hp depending on rpm.

Running no plate, you will move the exhaust and transfer port floors down 2mm, how much you raise each of them will depend on what kind of port you are trying for, pipes and rider wieght. You can just use a plate and bolt it together, but it won't run as well and the floors of the ports won't be flush with the piston at bdc. I recommend not using the plate because it is just one more sealing surface to develope an air leak. I've personally never had any issues with my cool head, and cut domes are by far the best way to go on a stroker IMO. What kind of riding do you do with your banshee? What pipes are you running? These are two ?'s you will need to answer before you cut anything.