bansheeonly

Thanks for the info i didnt know that they will all roll backwards in gear my stupidty. As far as the rocking forward when i rev it up with the clutch in you say it could be the basket or inner drive hub so i will replace both i am sure the clutch is adjusted right. Thanks for the help

My shee will rock forward when the clutch is pulled all the way in. It will also slowly roll backwards in gear if you park on any kind of incline. I figured it was the clutch pulled it apart mic'ed the fibers and checked the plates checks out fine. So i put it back together adjusted it properly and it still does it, maybe not as bad but it still does. Could it be the basket or the pressure plate? As always all help appreciated.

My shee will rock forward when the clutch is pulled all the way in. It will also slowly roll backwards in gear if you park on any kind of incline. I figured it was the clutch pulled it apart mic'ed the fibers and checked the plates checks out fine. So i put it back together adjusted it properly and it still does it, maybe not as bad but it still does. Could it be the basket or the pressure plate? As always all help appreciated.

pm sent on works shocks

.40 over mx ported cylinders, pro circuit pipes, 30 oko carbs with pods, noss head 21cc domes, plus 4 timing, 160 compression run 50/50 race gas. Most of my riding is done in open trails but occasionaly like to spank my friends 450s in drag races. Thanks

I have to buy new reed cages because 2 screws are stripped in my stock ones. I have a boss intake which has square openings the vforce 3 have a round opening, the vforce delta 2 have a square opening, and of course there is the option of ported stock reed cages. Is it best to match the intake to the reed cage opening i would think so but i wanted to ask the pros. So which is the best choice of reed cages to go with this intake or does it even matter. As always thanks for the help and suggestions.

PM Sent

Its leaking out the vent on the bottom of the bowl i just got done trying to adjust the float again i measured the one thats not leaking and it measured 20mm so i set the other one the exact same and it still leaks a drop every 15 seconds. My main problem is that its still running rich on that side and perfect on the other. Going to check carb sync with sync tool tommorow.

Thanks for the help guys iam going to try and adjust the float like you said hopefully i can get it right. The airscrews are three turns out on 48 pilots or half a turn out on 45 pilots doesnt seem to run bad or better on either or. Thats on 30 oko carbs.

Can carb floats being adjusted improperly make one side run rich? The right side drips a drop about every 15 seconds and its also the one that is running rich. I tried to adjust it by bending the the tab on the float but it seems like its either to much or not enough its either leaking or nothing at all. Will it just leak out the overflow or can it allow more than enough fuel to go into the motor? Thanks for any help.

I wanted to let you guys know will a little help from jeff at fast racing i figured out the problem and all it was was a plugged silencer. I pulled the silencer off and the shee ran perfect. I know i should of thought of it but it just didnt cross my mind. Thanks for all of the replies you guys are great. And a big thanks to jeff your the man.

Anybody know?

I have read ever forum on this website pertaining to a motor only running on one cylinder. I have tried to solve the problem with ever possible thing i know and read. The only thing i dont understand is on one forum the guy said he had a bad BE bearing that caused his motor to do this. Can someone please explain to me how a bad BE bearing will cause a motor to run only on one cylinder? Thanks

Yes i put the ports on the piston facing the ports on the cylinders. The side that is not working also appears to be getting alot hotter and a little gas/oil is coming out were the pipe connects to the silencer. I removed the airbox and sync the carbs again to make sure they were right and they were but if you put your hand up to the boot on the back of the carb it does not appear to be sucking as much air as the side that is working properly. Thanks for the reply.

I just did a top end rebuild and on the first warm up cycle the left cylinder will not do nothing but puff out a little white smoke the right side runs perfect. So i did a leakdown test held 7psi for 30min. Did a coolant pressure test held perfect. Compression was at 160 with 21cc domes. Everthing checked out fine so i switched the reeds, spark plug wires, and carbs from the left to the right and tried again. Still i have the same result the right side perfect, the left side just a little white smoke. I dont know what else to do or try any help would be appreciated. Thanks