Wildcardracing

On a stock stroke/cyl bike I would stay with the 8 or 9 pdl haulers or 7 to 8 pdl extremes, 9 pdl extremes and 10 pdl haulers are a bit much and will slow a bike with your setup down on the hill unless the sand is real light or the rider is extremely light (120lbs or less, I weigh 145) My 10 pdls work great on flat sand and launch hard, but lug the engine a little on the hill.

I've been toyin with the idea of doin a cranker myself. I've allready got the donor, it's a 583 rotax with a turbo, I'd probably stay 2 into 1 on the pipe and keep the turbo. Makes 155 hp at the crank on avgas w/no portwork. could be fun

Tuesday may be pushing it. Any good machine shop should be able to exract it for you. Are they the longer studs (pro-design cool head) or factory studs? If they are the stock stud then you may have some luck at the stealership. Maybe someone local to you has some on here, post it up that you need a set ASAP. Try tapping on it a couple of times, it may break it free.

Damn it!!! I got ripped off, the recyclers only gave me about $0.10 apiece for mine....I'm pissed...lol :yelrotflmao: You see that stuff all the time. There's a guy here locally trying to sell a 95' stock crank "low hours, good to go" for $300 and in the picture he posted of it, it's missing the right connecting rod and the webs are ate to hell. lol

Worst case scenario: Piston $75 Bore/hone $40 Crank $165 Gaskets $35 Seals $25 Labor to do bottom end $150 That's just a rough estimate off the top of my head. If you can convince him it's !@#$ed and get it for $1000 then add the $500 to rebuild the engine, you've got yourself a $1900 quad for $1500 :thumbsup:

How much of the stud is sticking out of the cylinder? They get corroded in there pretty bad sometimes. If there is enough to get som vise grips on it then try those. You can tap the top of the stud lightly with a hammer to break the corrosion free, be sure not to damage you sealing surface.

Is this one you're trying to sell or looking at buying?? There's no asking price, and as a general rule you won't get your money back out of your mods. 05 Blasters usually go for between $1900 and $2500 around here depending on condition. Don't know what your market is there, but the majority of people just aren't interested in two-strokes any more.

No problem bud, glad to help....Welcome to the HQ

I'm not sure of the sand there, but here in UT the best setup I've found for a stock stroke shee is 22x11x8 8pdl ultralites +4 swinger and 14/39 to 14/40 gearing. You could go to a 9pdl if the sand is real light. I'm currently running 10pdls on mine and it slows me down a little, 10pdls are just a bit much on a stock stroke/cylinder shee. My mods are in my sig, I can get away with my +2 swinger ok but really need a +4. Hope that helps

It's just a breather hose so your fuel can expand. The hose just routs it so the fuel doesn't splash on the rider. You can just tuck it back into your plastics. :thumbsup:

Welcome to the HQ :thumbsup: As said above, both cylinders need to be the same. The reason this is so crucial is stress on the crankshaft and harmonics/vibration, if one side is applying more force than the other your chances of slipping your crank out of phaze is worse. Not to mention tuning issues and the fact that it won't run worth a damn. I agree, I wouldn't let the mechanic who gave you that advice touch anything.

Well, to start with a 100 octane mix is a little on the scarry side for 180psi compression, I would recommend straight 110 for that much compression. Second thing is, 20 minutes at WOT?? That is a long time for any engine to sustain peak rpm. It is hard to say wheather it was the crank or a piston, the only way to know for sure is to pull the head and have a look. There are several things that can cause seizure or burn down: air leak, impropper jetting, leaking head gasket, impropper fuel or mixture, too hot of plug, overheating, ect, ect. The only way to know what caused it is to inspect the piston once it is out. There are tell-tale signs you can look for on the piston that will give you an idea why it blew up. I would suspect heat (too many rpms for too long) or detonation (low octane for compression), but I wouldn't rule out the other possibilities. What kind of riding do you use the bike for? A cheetah cub wouldn't be well suited for any trail application, they are great for drags and wide open areas but have very little power in the bottom end. Also, you would likely have to upgrade your pipes and carbs to get the full potential out of the cub.

WTF???!!! :yelrotflmao: John, you crack me up!! Back on subject here lol. What types of riding do you primarily do with your banshee, as this will be the deciding factor on exactly which pipes and filter setup you go with. Also, what kind of a budget do you have to throw down on some more power? Pipes and porting will be your two biggest power gains. A well setup bolt-on banshee will handle a bolt-on raptor with no problems with the right mods.

It will be a whole different bike once you go to a ported 4mil. A standard gasket kit will do just fine, you will also need a seal kit and some 1194 threebond sealant because you will be splitting your cases to do the crank. Oh, and a flywheel puller so you can get to the stator plate, which comes off to split the cases.

What the hell snop, you been forgettin to take your geritol lately or what???

Make sure when you do your stator plate to set the clearance on the pickup coil. The clearance should be 0.020" between the pickup and the raised blocks on the flywheel. Too far out and it won't run very good if at all, too close and it'll hit the flywheel ruining your coil.

Joel, Do yourself a favor bud, take it to a good atv mechanic and have a leakdown test done to settle your fears or confirm the problem. If it holds 6psi for 6 minutes you're good to go, if not you'll be able to find where it's leaking from.

320-330, middle clip on needle, stock pilot, 1.5 turns out on airscrews...that should put you in the neighborhood, then do some plug-chops to verify.

You don't have to advance the timing to run higher compression, they are two separate mods that both compliment bottom end power and increase octane requirements. I personally would recommend the 4mil crank. Like Dave said, chances are you will have to have case work done to run the 5mil. I don't see a huge advantage of 1mm stroke. If you allready have portwork done there is also a good possibility that your cylinders can't be ported for the additional stroke, you will need to measure them to make sure.

What's your elevation and complete list of engine/intake mods?

Sounds to me like there is an issue with the carbs, putting your hand over the intake will have the same effect as the choke. I would check your compression with a guage to be certain if you think it is low. Wisecos are forged instead of cast like the OEM pistons, and they are a bit lighter...but, I wouldn't venture to say there is a huge noticable power increase with them. You can have your head milled, only go .020" unless the machinist knows how to rechamber it. If you go much further your squish band will be far too tight. Before you go spending a lot on mods you need to decide what style of riding you do most ie:trails, drags ect. This will help us to tell you what mods and port type will suit your style the best.

Man, that sucks. Matt was telling me about it yesterday at the dunes. Had an extra quad with us at the dunes and forgot my chain and lock to secure it to the trailer. Had me nervous all day, especially after he told me about yours being taken out of your yard. Glad to hear you got it back, hope dab can get it runnin right for ya.

Not entirely true, various pipes and porting configurations will allow your engine to rev out further...thus increasing your top speed. But, most of the mods that will allow your engine to rev out further will take away from your bottom end power.

At your elevation I would go 270 mains, 27.5 pilot, needle on middle clip and airscrews 1.5 out for your mods. That should put you real close, then do a plug chop to verify.

There are two of them @3/8", they are right by your sprocket.