Wildcardracing

the bracket it mounts to has 2 phillips head screws, just loosem them and move it closer, use a .020" feeler guage between the pickup and one of the 2 raised blocks on the flyweel. when adjusted correctly you should feel a very slight drag on the guage when you pull it out. double check the clearance on the opposite raised block after you tighten the screws back up

Sounds to me like you have an air leak in your crank seals or between your cases, you should have to run no more than 280 mains with that setup at your altitude.

PM sent on tranny

PM sent on the tranny

I have struts 4 mine as well, plan on running them at the track this year. I built an adj rear and solid fronts, should lighten/stiffen her up a bit. Seems to launch a lot better with them on. Workin on a bar as well, since I currently only have a +2 swinger lol. Gets a little knarly out of the hole.

Check the gap on your pickup coil, should be .020"

Ummm, every banshee I've ever owned has had the nuts on the sprocket side loco.

what burrito is saying is that if you start mixing at 32 or 40:1 your fuel will be thinner and less resistant to flow so you may end up going down a jet size. Verify this with a plug chop though. :thumbsup: 24:1 is way rich, I run yamalube 2R with no problems at 40:1

No problem :thumbsup:

People use the Type F because it's a very light oil and causes less resistance in the trans which equals more power to the ground, it also makes your clutch hook beter. The thicker oils have stronger film strength and are actually beter for you bearings and bushings. Yamaha recommends either 10/30 or 10/40 yamalube 4R, can't remember which.

HP numbers are going to vary from dyno to dyno and be lower with elevation, not sure what the elevation is in reno though.

Hey Red, I'm going to be out there for a day or two on Memorial day if I can get CPI's !@#$ up fixed b-fore then. It's a long story, but it made 6 passes on the hill this weekend with no tranny oil before it locked up I'm tearing into it right now to see what kind of carnage I find. First and last time somebody else touches my bike with a wrench.

First thing, check your compression with a guage...your cylinders should be within a few psi of each other. Second you can pull your exhaust pipes off and look through the exhaust ports as you rotate the engine over to see how badly you scuffed up the piston skirts. They will usually scuff far worse on the exhaust side as this is where most of your heat is directed (light scuffing is normal, huge gouges or chunks missing not good). If it compression tests ok, doesn't have any knocking, and the skirts look descent then you are probably ok. Then you should also pull you water pump cover and check that the impellor isn't melted, you need to figure out why it over heated. Coolant level, water pump impellor, jetting and head gasket leaks are common reasons for overheating issues.

The port above your intake windows doent flow much charge straight from your reeds anyways, that port is closed very few degrees after your petals open. That port is called your boost or dust port, it is there to help atomize the fuel/air from the transfers as the piston approaches BDC and the charge is forced up through them, when your piston travels upwards again the reeds open but very little charge is directed straight from the reeds to the boost port during the scavenging cycle before the boost port closes.

There were mods done during the rebuil??? porting?? If nothing was done besides a rebuild to freshen it up your jetting shouldn't change, don't run it rich to break it in, do a couple of warmup cylcles and retorque your topend to 20ft lbs once it is cooled, do a plug chop and enjoy your bike. If it burned down then you need to figure out why (ie. jetting, air leak, head gasket, detonation, ect. ect.) then maybe you need to look at rejetting it if that was the problem.

What you talkin bout willis????? Hey red when you gonna bring that 4mil over and play, I think you'll be quite supprised how my little stock stroke gasoline burner runs

I agree, the FMF's are hurtin ya some. If it truely is a K&T drag port then go with the CPI's they are what Kim recommends on all of his motors. PM frogger on here, he has the best deal I've ever seen on brand new CPI's.

Where at in Iraq?? I spent a year deployed there between Najaf and Karbala, never been someplace that smelled so bad all the time. Kuwait and Saudi would be some awesome dunes to ride! About the heads, the biggest bennefits are the interchangeable domes so you can adjust your compression and they have larger coolant capacity...Plus they look good! As far as concerns, Keep a good eye on your coolant level in the radiator between rides and keep in mind that the banshee doesn't have a fan so it will overheat easily in hot weather when riding slow tight trails, gotta stretch the shee's legs once in awile and cool her down.

Anyone planning to be at the dunes tomorrow...May 9th??? I'm planning on being out for a few hours in the A.M.

Most recent pic I saw of Kev's hillshooter still had those same oof's on it.

I ran 187 deg. with my fmf's, That duration compliments a mid pipe quite well :thumbsup:

In your intake manifolds there is a lip that seats against the carb, when you get a taper bore the I.D. of the carb is larger than the I.D. of the intake so he shaves the lip down to match the carb bore.

You should pull the hub out and tap the seal in straight with something. :thumbsup:

You said earlier that your rear sprocket moved up and down as you rotated it, that's not right...I think you may have found your problem, figure out what is bent or messed up that is causing it to not roll concentric with your axle.