Wildcardracing

Vito's offers both forged and cast pistons.

You can expect to go up @2 sizes on your mains and drop your needle one clip. That should put you close then do a plug chop to verify.

LOL, yeah they suck (dirt, sand, extra unwanted air) once they crack your intake boots!

LOL, that's funny as hell. :yelrotflmao:

You should be able to get $2500 out of it. In my area banshees that age bring anywhere from $2200 to $3000 in good shape

You can run pump fuel in any of them, it just depends on how much compression you set it up for and how much timing you throw at it.

Do yourself a favor and put together a list of comparable quads for sale with prices, along with pics of your bike and reciepts for all of the stuff you had done to it. This will give the insurance co a better idea what it is worth. And absolutely don't take thier first offer, they will lowball the hell out of you. Stick to your $5000 mark firm and they will eventually give you a reasonable offer. The adjusters job is to give you as little for your quad as they can get away with. I've dealt with insurance companies several times and alway walked away with what I wanted, it just takes a lot of time and bullshit sometimes.

Sounds like you have an air leak somewhere, if all of your gaskets and seals have been replaced?? Hows your carb boots (cracking), does it have a boost bottle (cracked?), Possibly a crack in the cylinder or case somewhere?? You should get a leak down test done. You still have the stock head right?? What's your elevation...100 psi is about stock for 5000' or so. If your at that elevation your jetting is WAY rich, but that won't cause an overheating issue like this. We need some more info. Elevation and complete list of mods and complete list of repairs allready done to solve this issue.

If overtightened it can damage your countershaft bearings and/or break causing damage to your case ect.

I would also like to say thanks to all of my fellow service men/women. A special thanks to those who are currently deployed, may you all make it home safe and welcomed with the same hero's honors that I enjoyed at my homecoming. It means a lot to me and I'm sure I speak for the thousands who have or are currently serving, to see that people still appreciate what our armed forces do. May we all take a moment to remember those fallen who gave thier lives for the freedoms we enjoy today. May thier saccrifice not be in vane.

I did my top case only, what a PITA!!! I found I had the best results using #400 wet/dry sand paper on the larger areas by hand to get all of the rough casting marks smoothed out. Then I used the dremel sanding buffs to do the tight areas. Once it was all smoothed in I used #500 and then #600 sandpaper to get the deeper scratches out. Then I used liquid polish (mothers) to get them shinny and finished up with never dull to make it look like chrome. I didn't bother with the lower case or counter sprocket area because they are both so hidden I didn't think it would matter much. Plan on spending about 10 hrs polishing on the top case alone.

I'm not a real fan of the 660's, unlike the 700's they need a lot of work to get the power out of them. However, 2k is not bad for one in good shape.

What is your elavation and what type of riding do you plan to do with it, as this will make a difference in selecting parts ect. Also what is your budget that you plan on spending on it?

It has to be turned between centers on a lathe or in a fixture and the runout checked with a dial indicator. So probably not, unless you have access to those special tools.

We would need to know your elevation and what type of riding you plan on doing to give you recommendations. HP output is really going to depend on the portwork done with those mods. 55-60 hp is very attainable. Also, do you allready have a specific banshee that you are buying or are you still looking for one? You may want to wait till you get your shee and see what has allready been done to it before getting a bunch of parts for a bike you don't have yet.

21's should do fine for pump gas at your elevation, they should put you somewhere around 150psi compression.

+1 for the noss head, it's one piece so there's less o-rings to mess with and as said you can use your stock studs. Plus noss machine is a sponsor of this site. I currently have the pro design unit on mine, they're not bad but I'd buy the noss next time. They both run the same style of domes, so those are easy to find anywhere. We would need to know your elevation to recommend a dome size to you. And, welcome to BHQ :thumbsup:

well, yamaha doesn't sell them as a set if that helps. The part # for the drive gear on the crank is 4LO-16111-00-00

What I'm trying to say is that 65 to 70 hp is when you're pushing the limit of fuel capacity in those tiny little float bowls. Sure you can make more power with them, but how long can you hold it wide open before you run them dry. I'd say the risk of running them dry on flat land isn't as much as some of the hill climbs we do up here.

Personally I don't care where it was posted, doesn't really matter that much does it? So, it would have been a completely different story without pics?? I've seen that thread a million times in the repairs forum and guys haven't been flamed for it.

umm, he allready has a hopped up hillshooter...I don't think an aggressive ported bike is what he's looking for. The long rod is a great idea for reliability,I would build it for as much low to mid power as possible on pump gas so it's cheap to ride. A nice aggressive trail port or even a mild dune port with a descent midrange pipe and some 28mm flatslides with pods. Shoot for 150psi compression and do +4 timing. A stock length or +2 swingarm should do fine ad a gforce axle and some nice +2 +1 a arms and works or elkas depending on budget. Do your DC conversion for the lighting. Throw on some nice v-blade paddles and let er rip. Should be a real nice all around dune bike. Then you can use your other one for racing the hill.

Impact driver and a hammer, rockymountainatv.com has them part#109-611. or some screw drivers have the hex on the handle end to put a wrench on and get a little more leverage. Use a #3 phillips or you'll strip the heads.

SLP has made some pretty good shit for sleds, I know a lot of the guys there. But, I would stay away from thier Banshee stuff, overpriced for what you get. Those are not a bad pipe per say, but you can do a lot better.

Last I checked it was in the banshee repairs and MODS section. If porting isn't a mod...then wtf is??!!! You can't tell much from a pic...true, but he wasn't asking anything just sharing his latest mod.

Yes, they are welded. But, i reccommend having them re-welded since they are only spot welded from the factory and should have the pins welded a full 360 deg for maximum strength.