flotek

some stuff is actaully pretty good ...some is marketing hype ,just avoid their hand dandy super scrap piston kits at all costs

pro circuits are probably one of the most overlooked banshee pipes on the market ,excellent pipe for a wide variety of applications

bump for a stand guy and good seller

a descriptive label like "dune" or "mx" is a relative term that has no said industry standard ,personaly i would not consider that to even be a trail port though ,there are certianshapes widths and angles that will definitly have certain favorable characteristics .a builder must maintain a relationship between the exhaust and transfers to be done correctly ,this is your blowdown and if its off it can really hinder perfomrance and make a very narrow powerband ,banshee engines were originally designed in 1969 ,there is much more that needs addressed and many hours of extensive porting needs to be spent to get them to produce big power gains reliably .

most any competant shop will be able to port for low-top rpms , theres a lot of myths about porting on the net ,the biggest is probably that it will kill relibaility ,next is the concern of a lightswitch powerband .a professional builder will be able to avoid those issues .

thats "bas ass" :biggrin:

bigger carbs will work but you will get less response and your lowend torque will often be poor ,also the jetting them down to compensate will not help this loss of intake velocity ,sometimes bigger isnt better

when manchined ,it must be indicated in and cut off a oem crank nub to insure its balanced and concentric to the inner taper ,stock is about 50 ounces most shops get about 8-9 ounces off of them i have ran some ive modifed down to only 32 ounces for drag applications , its a very noticable improvment in throttle response and reducing the delayed hesatation banshees are known for off idle

one mans junk is another mans treasure ,ive been in the same boat but I have also stumbled on on decent running mid 90's piped banshees for under a grand

they will work but not how youd think for that application , as others mentioned its not the ideal size id aim for dual 28-30mm ,if yo u runthe bigger carbs o na gas 350 youll likely have poor lowend throttle response signal and the torque wont really pickup that well till about half throttle ,lack of intake velocity due to large bore size and volume makes a big difference ,at 160 pounds and 4 degrees advancment it will probably be undesirable for you , i would find some smaller ones to keep it snappy and responsive

is it a lot easier to tune on one carb? is there less problems with carb sync ? sure ..my john deere riding mower is super easy to tune as well ,doesnt mean it is very exciting to race around the yard though . reducing available CFM is no way to make power IMHO ...increasing your compression ratio and dialing in your igntion timing is

dont waste your time with a 2-1 onyl to lose some topend rpm ,instead of changing carbs for only marginal curve changes ,one of the easist most noticable ways to gain more grunt is to increase the static compression and your ignition timing ,of coarse your fuel chocie will dictate how much you can alter these

alot of times boring and stroking would be ideal to keep the relationship withing reason but on a banshee your bore diameter is already 10mm larger than the given stroke .note that a 421 cub which is wel l know to be great bang for the buck engine combination retains this same relationship in MM to bore and stroke ..so if you were to choose one it would be stroking the crank for most noticable worthwhile gains .

ive traded rockets for shearer small bores o nseveral configurations and made more power with shearers even in lower rpms over the rockets surprisngly ,thats after extenisve jetting changes i found the jetting between the two was drasticly different. CPi is also an excellent choice for all around duner power and still retain good peak rpm numbers ,i prefer RDZ pipes for full drag though

click to see a hypocrit thanks for the kind words over the years speedy2222 ^ balla i realize yo u and your riding pals are trying to discredit to me to whoever will listen now that you quit e2s... but dragging your mudslinging to other sites like this is pointless man .you should have bored the jugs over got some real compression to it .. got some wisecos and worked with me on jetting advise seems if you had an issue instead of come on here bashing me 2 years later .once it goes out theres only so much a guy can do to help ,theres some elbow grease required on your part ...one thing i can say on here im really glad ot see not everyone is so blindly brainwashed by what people claim ...sadly some of these guys are only on here registered ot sell stuff .... next these guys will say i stole the lindberg baby.

lol well Im from northwestern pa and back i n the day i broke many of them and i finally got smart and decided to get an adjustable plate to advance my timing and life has been good ,this reminds me that a standard butter knife can work okay to make a flathead screw driver for hanging a picture up but its not by no means the best method

when this happens most people think your screwed but with the right machine that hardened tap can easily and quickly be desintagrated with out any heat warpage or harm to the fine soft aluminum threads , this machine is called ram EDM

they use the genuine keihin jets ,same as all the pwk carbs use ,the best needle for them is the N68A

if the porting (especially the blowdown) is wrong it can "short circuit " itself and sometimes burn the tips off and chip on carbon reeds

Klotz technaplate is great oil ...next id say is castor 927 .. the 927 has more castor base in than the 20% the supertechnaplate offers... it burns dirtier ...both great oils but for best relibaility and overall quality with a clean fast burn it would be the technaplate at 28-1 or 32-1 ...i run it in race gas and in methanol,in my experinace its leaps and bounds better than the rest and i have torn a metric ton of these motors apart

yes it was a gas 421cub with shearer sb inframes ,it makes sense

awesome time,damn i should go over to thompsons and see this ,not even very far for me to drive either ,i have a stock stroke cub too ..they dont have the lowend troque like some of the bigger monos but give them some roo m to stretch their feet nice thing is the ability to run high rpms and do so quickly really can make the baby cubs shine i n the right application

39's will give a solid 4 or 5 more hp everywhere (not just topend)o n a ported 4mill cub over the 35pwks ...wha t your thinking makes sense ,but cubs love huge carbs and if i hadnt seen the dyno graphs that show this i wouldnt belive it either ,i would say the bigger carbs are worth the expense on your setup

yes its totlaly possible for a drag port the right mods and shearers to hit 11,500 rpms ...problem is its not happening with toomey T5 pipes ,the sheaerers will often outrev them by well over 1,500 rpms or more , id say your gauge is inaccurate... even to itself

the oem stock key is fairly tough soild one piece nub the problem is the offset way the aftermarket keys are designed.. they snap/shear at the corner inner radius of the offset .even if its tight with the big nut on it it can still slightly shift out of location .there will never be a perfect side ot side fit for the key as the mateing slots have width clearacne for alignment yes some do hold up and wont move casuing a problem ,i have had terrible luck with them i nthe past and seen others have similar troubles call up vitos and tel lthem it sheared apart and they eagerly offer a new one sent out up to three times this alone tells me they know theres problems with them shearing