flotek

the mating slots have some clearance for the key to be inserted this would allow for play .the enertia rotational mass of the flywheel weight puts pressure against the edge of the key in its groove and i n theory yes it should be up flush tight on the crank taper but it can be jarred slightly out of location during startups or at high rpms and really it only takes a small movemnt maybe only .010 -.020 to shear a soft offset .200 thick key,the slots have sharp edges in this recessed area on the hweel and the crank and the taper surfaces are hardened .most people have never checked it out but the( lead dripping)keys are not eve n actually a true 4 degrees .....more like 2.5 -3 degrees! ,i have seen one ricky stator plate fail and crack and i have seen many many many keys fail ,i wouldnt use a key when for like 12 more bucks you can do it the right way and get the accurate adjustable advancment at the turn of a wrist and done reliably

well plainly put it is not going to increase your peak rpms by 1,000 to have windowed pistons over a typical prolite and the best explanation for why your vapor gauge is reading high numbers must be that it is simply innacurate and Not showing you the correct readings in the display

okay ,fair enough .. but lets see the dyno graph plot to prove this cause i have never seen toomey t5 pipes hit that high and pull at 11,300+ rpms ,the exotic port is one thing but the exhaust pipe has a given effective rpm range and the exhaust must match the port durations and layout . toomey pipes are not known to make much over 9,000 rpms without signing off so we would love to see this shown

the key is made to be soft so it shears instead of galling up your pricey crank ,the plate is the best method to advance the timing ,id mod the stock one if your tight o n cash .definitly be sure to use a yamaha puller and not a universal 3 jaw auto puller like a lot of boneheads try ,i have seen way to many good flywheels totally ruined by customers this way .

well i build banshees for living and i cant see that A your not making 80 true rwhp horsepower or hitting a true 11,300 rpms by use of a stock stroke and just toomey T5 exhaust and adding large windows to the pistons can start the charge a little sooner giving slightly better lowend response but your not getting any big gain or hp increase ,it will crack and is no benefit ,large intakes reduce velocity and dont always benefit the other portwork .theres a relationship that must be kept

well surley it boosts the sales for the scammer companies making them, so there is some effect

sad to say there are very few shops or dealers who can actually jet /tune and modify a banshee the correct way ..I have found they are far more interested in trying to sell yo u parts or machines you dont need

exactly ..a giant hogged out smooth intake doesnt really make any more power ,actually theres about 10% of the total power i n the intake area .the best and most power will be made by using the velocity over volume concept ...get it in quick and get it out even quciker thats where years of testing and trial and error will come into play .

we ran around 170 pounds and 7 degrees timing advancment with .040 squish

amazing wha t will they think of next ,leave it to the dynamos over in India to design such high performance revolutionary racing technology. I thin k maybe their turbins are too tight over there

sad to say but i was very unimpressed with them in the past ...pro circuit, t5 ,and even fmf fattys pull stronger in the midrange and have around the same peak power in my experiance on a typical midrnage port configuration with various jetting adjusmtnets to compensate ,i dont feel they are any better than their 2-1 woods pipe kit .

its only good for a few ponies ,but every bit helps

Klotz techanplate and castor 927 are about the best premix oils on the market

i have run cut gears(every other dog milled off ) shift pro kit and modifed shift star all on the smae bike and it really helped over stock for sure but it was nothing amazing ,theres no comparison to my dunable from dajogerjr ,you can hook your pinky on the shifter and bench shift instantly through al lthe gears with no effort or clucth and its the same feeling with your big toe i n Nikes running under full power and no clutching,i cant imagine that theres anything better

any reputable builder who is a professional can port before or after the plate is on them with no issues

Tony can do some nice port work but like any big name its hit or miss :cool:

the pro circuit is an excellent pipe that is very underated IMHO i feel the fmf fattys and pt pipes actually do make better lowend torque and response but thats debatable and more subject to port timing and other variables . the pc pipes perform excellent even on aggresivley ported motors and work better than probably 90% of the typical pipes you here people rave about so i think your doing the right thing by keeping them :cool:

haha thats what i was thinking short gearing wont add torque just make you shift sooner .easiest way for responsive lowend torque on a banshee without porting ,stroking .etc .....is add more compression, more timing ,and a lightend flywheel

thats a deal ...free bump

46JJH is the needle yo u want

to my knowledge these are still available from lakes motorsports ,neat idea but lots of work ,some big names have got some real impressive numbers out of them ,theres only so much capacity in stock jugs

well the dyno can correct the elevation change ,its a tool... only as good as the guy running it

well the dyno is definitly not right ...60 pounds of torque on just a ported 370 ,that doesnt even sound close.... especially with 74 hp ,on a banshee the torque is generaly half the horsepower a drag ported stroked 421 cheetah cub on methanol would typicaly hit around 50 or so pounds of torque

rjatv.com hes a sponsor on here ,hes also a marshal distrubutor and can get about anything for cheap

the needles are made to be long and thin.. they are usually way too rich ..waste of money