sheerider1026

look on ebay.. i bought one for 7.00.. its a billet bracket that relocates your key under the seat.. right behind the gas tank.. it uses the rear mounting bolts on the tank.. your wiring is just long enough also.. nice piece..

i helped andrew put that stator on.. and i am telling you that what happened is true.. i sent a stator in myself that was not under warranty to get checked and they kept the damn thing. they did email me at first when they received it, and now i am trying to get them to send it back to me.. now that is shitty.. i would even pay for the shipping.. so they basically stole my stator from me which is my property.. crooks, bad business

are u tightening the flywheel nut with an impact?? it is a must to tighten it with a impact,, the key doesnt hole the flywheel when spinning.. the taper of the crankshaft is what locks the flywheel in place, the keyway just keeps it lined up.. also the shaft and flywheel should be grease and oil free.. i would not suggest welding it.. if you are just tightening it without a impact you are waisting your time.. it will definately shear the key like that..

lol.. thats the most screwed up shit i have ever seen.. if someone bids on that they need there ass kicked...

yep.. if it has set for a while more than likely its the carbs.. if not i would check compression..

lets hope so.. a lot of people have had bad luck with them.. i cannot beleive the refused to warranty andrews stator, and they tell you no questions asked.. thats crap.. they are loosing customers everyday with business practices like this.

not everyone buys the high output stator(200w) a lot of people buy the stock replacement.. its really not that hard to swap out a stator.. anyone that can jet there carbs can do a stator swap... i will agree on the 200w unit though.. u are adding double the current to the electrical system.. but i have seen to much of there stuff that is junk..

wel i hope andrew will chime back in.. his stator lasted maybe a week, the screws that hold the stator to the timing plate backed out and the stator got smashed by the flywheel., this being said, the stator and timing plate came already bolted together from ricky stator so that is there fault for not checking there items before they ship.. he sent it back in with receipt and they refused to replace it.. he explained what happened and the said it looked deliberately done.. thats BS.. F*CK ricky stator as far as i am concerned..

word!!

bump!

she is from kaufman.. lttle town outside dallas

yes slobanshee your tips were very helpful.. it has less compression with these cylinders than it did before i tore it apart but it runs better. amazing.. can't wait to get it bored.. should scream..

yep i would bet also.. and the way its running it ounds like it also... if u have compression, fuel, and spark it should run. 2 strokes are as simple as that.. i bet it ate the key.. let me know ehn u check it out.. got me curious now. just let me know if thats whats wrong with it.. where u at in texas? my girl is from the big T.

hey man try this.. u said the flywheel hit the pickup real hard right??(i think it was you that hadd that problem) i would defiantely pull the flywheel off to see if u sheared the key(woodruff key they call it.. if so it will spark but is not sparking at the right time( like being way outta time) i had a kx500 dirtbike that did that once.. i would almost lay money that is whats wrong with it..

shoot me a total for a set of each shipped..

toomey t5's are a good pipe.. dont forget to rejet the carbs.. a good set of reeds make some difference.. get a timing plate, that helps a lot also.. if money is low do the pipes, timing, and rejet.. also a good air filter.. u will be surprised ...

i am running atf.. maybe thats the problem?? i am going to switch back to regular oil.

i have a stock stroke 68 mill cub.. has cpi inframes, 33mm pwks, vforce, u get the picture.. it has a new clutch with stiff springs and slips in 4th and up.. is a lockout best(dont really wanna go that route) or what about the fibers out of the frz1000 bikes??

yea.. i did go the extra mile and removed some metal from mine while i was at it.. gotta watch yourself and know when to stop cutting.. i can see how it would be easy to get carried away..

its funny you say that.. i have installed many stators,, oem and rickys.. and every one of the rickys i have ever had where junk.. they last no time if u ever get a good one to start with.. i guess some people have better luck.. the last time i said f*ck it.. bought a used oem stator, installed it and no problem.. i have installed many timing plates, done rebuilds on bottom ends, and so on.. its not a installation isuue with me.. i just think there products are second hand.. just my .02

that is very true.. although helping an engine breathe better is also a big help.. but for drastic changes like snop said, the port windows height, angle, and width are crucial.. i read up some on mine.. the only port windows i changed where the transfers width.. i didn't go taller with them, i just wanted to add a little grunt and all around usable power.. my gains are good with what i did, but don't get me wrong, if i sent them out to someone to have them professionally ported it would be much better,, but hey my extra power was free, and plus i enjoyed doing it anyway.. i have 3 banshee here and one is stock, one is a cheetah cub bike, and this one is now a diy port job.. make fun if u want, but i know i didn't screw my cylinders up.. i trail ride it anyway so i wasn't looking for an all out drag port or anything.. just to have an edge on my other shee riding buds..

whats the port work setup for?? i have an extremely clean cub motor banshee i would sell to get a bike like this. it beter suites my needs..

stator?

i personally run water mixed with sand in mine.. it shifts very well.. the water keeps the tranny temps down too.. lol

sorry i can't spell .lol i used a dremel