sheerider1026

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amsoil is the shit isn't it??

was just wondering who else runs 50:1 premix?? i use the amsoil dirtinator synthetic, have used it for years and its an excellent oil..

i only went half way in the transfers starting from the base of the cylinder.. what difference do u think this cleanup will make in power?? any power loss anywhere??

yea i have started porting.. i have smoothed up the tranfers, knife edged the birdges, and also opened the tranfers up a little to where u can tell but its not extensive, i also smoothed the intake and narrowed the bridge just a little(not the sleeve) and put a smotth contoured edge on the bridges also.. i definately do not want to lose lowend or mid by doing this so i hope its not a mistake, i am not going to change the port timings. i just want to add more power everywhere by letting the engine breath a little easier.. do u think i will lose any lowend power?? or just gain it everywhere like i am thinking, i have done a beautiful job so far, actually proud of myself so i will post some pics later..

hey drew, i have one that will be getting back from ricky soon i will sell you dirt cheap.. nates gonna spank that ass for ya though lmfao!!

so do u think opening the transfers up some will hurt the bottom end power?? i am talkin about just opening them up at the base(where they bolt to the crankcase) and going about half way up, i am planning on leaving the roof angles alone.. what gains will be had doing this and also opening up the intake side and polishing the exhaust.. i will not do any cutting on the sleeves( port timings will be stock) and if the opening of the transfers is done how much bottom end will be lost if any, also what gains are gonna be had?

hey wacko!, i bet u would agree that the best thing to do and the ebst moeny wpent will be on a +2.. i have one myself, and i have a +4 on my other shee.. and for trails, jumping and wheelies it is useless.. the +2 is what the banshee should have had to begin with..

+2.. it is perfect for trails and wheelies are still easy to do.. my +4 on my cub'd shee makes it hard to wheelie and the bike is a bitch in the trails because it is long and hard to throw around

u said that u raced before the fresh topend, timing and carbs?? well if the top end was almost shot theres yor problem.. also u may not have the carbs tuned in good enough, if u are running too rich u are gonna lose power.. get this, i have a buddy that race a yfz450, his banshee only has trinity pipes, +4 timing, and a fresh top end.. (his bike still has a stock head, reeds, and carbs) and he can beat yfz450's.. you might also wanna try a modded shift star or the shift pro kit,( i use them both together) if shifting is your problem.. if u are shifting too fast gear it up some..

my cub is a stock stroke/rod crank with the 68mm big bore.. and i love it.... it definately gets attention when i am out riding, people say "that thing sounds scary" or what did u do to it??

yeah the stock transfers are pretty narrow.. was wanting to open up the narrow spot that is close to the base, that is what i am trying to describe i guess.. but i am not wanting to hurt my low end power. do u think it will just have more power everywhere?? i would also polish the hell out of the exhaust ports..

i will vouch for dave also, he is a awesome guy to deal with.. i have one of his heads that i bought many years ago(back when they still used the long studs) and i must say the quality is unbelievable.. also wanted to add that i have always ran 19cc's in mine and ran 93 pump gas.. i am at about 500 ft asl. does that sound strange?? i also run my timing at about +5.. i do run a bigger main jet than my buddies. i have ran the 19's for years and have not had any trouble.. and it flat out rips

this will be on stock cylinders.. i was thinking i would only port halfway down into the transfers (from the base first) and not touche the roof of the port, i know that is where a lot of difference is made, i was just going to open up what is there for more volume, i noticed that there is aluminum casting that is touching the the sleeve on the inside of the transfers, can that be removed? i noticed it has a humped like shape, maybe it is part of what directs the mixture flowing through?? i have noticed that a lot of times (from pictures) the material is removed from the outside wall(opposite of the sleeve) in the transfers, like i sad just wanted to open them up from the base to about halfway through.. any suggestions?? and u guys that did this yourself what did u notice from it?? any difference?

yea they seem pretty bottlenecked down there.. did u notice a difference with your cleanup port?? how did it run?? how did u cut the intake part of the juggs?? school me on what i should do and what to expect

havent got that far yet, any suggestions?? can i open up the transfers, most that i see are tunneled out pretty good. would it hurt??

was thinking about opening up the intake, transfers, and polishing the exhaust.. u guys think this will help open it up some?? not going to cut into the sleeve, not going to change port timings either.. i like the way the power comes on with the stock port. just want little more power everywhere.. what u guys think?? not wanting to spend a bunch of cash on a port job. i just hate bolting those restrictive looking cylinders back on the bike.. what u guys think???

what he said.. you nailed it. i agree, the +2 is the ultimate choice for that type of riding.. its a happy median for the riding that we do, kinda like having your cake and eating it to,, right wacko?? nice shocks by the way, i have a set identical to them, do u like them?? works set mine up on the soft side, i am not happy with them., they gave me a hassle on sending them back to get redone with there 30 day ride guarantee.. i will never buy shocks from them again..

check out eyeball engineering. they make beefy swingers.. mine has haeld up for like 6 years strong.. i love it.. great product

i would have to take those for a ride.. shee is hot!! think it deserves a longrod and a good boring?

no problem and good luck, eyeball engineering makes a very nice swingarm.. i have had mine for5 or 6 years from them and it is tuff..

him: what size pants are those? her; why? him: wanted to see if i could get in them

him: did it hurt?? her: did what hurt?? him: when u fell from heaven

man i have been through this one.. i have both a +4 and a +2.. the +4 is shitty for trail riding, you spin a lot, wheelies are gone, and the bike is way too long to throw around in tight trails.. i have a +2 and love it. not too big and not too small to rip through trails and climb some pretty serious hills.. i ended up putting a cub motor on my bike, i ran across a +4 pretty cheap so i put it on there and put the +2 on the shelf, needless to say, due to the length and power of the bike, i bought another banshee just to trail ride with, i installed the +2 the other day, it is perfect, it gives you so much control over the bike (especially for wheelies) you can go fast and be in control of when u want to ride a wheelie.. i hope this helps.. trust me i would go with a +2.. sometimes more is not better.. the +4 and up is good for drag bikes and dunes.. for trails and rec riding it flat out sucks..

yes that is true, its totally programmable. you can prgram it to do whatever, so one day it will run like a flat out drag bike, and the next day you have a tourquey trail bike if u want, i would say that is the way to go..