WINDYCITYJOHN400

I'm guessing you have two issues going on. #1 - Your over tightening the clamps and crushing the bar at the base. #2 You have those bars raked real far forward. Your bars should be close to the same angle as the steering stem. Your putting a twisting force into them rather than a pushing and pulling force that is in the same plane as the crossbar. But I can understand not trusting any brand after a breakage. If your worried about breaking another set.....Fast Flex.

What is it and what is it breathing thru? (motor size, carbs and pipes, etc)

Sorry Zilla, but that doesn't even make sense?...... How much power does your machine make?

REALITY..........Sometimes it's even worse than you can imagine. I wonder what Mike (the RS rep) is thinking right about now. I bet he was under the impression that a few bad stators in the past had created some "misconceptions" and with some clever word smithing he could clear the air and turn the bad PR around. I laugh my ass off every time I picture him standing in front of his boss and giving him updates on "How it's going." HOW'S IT GOING????? IT'S LIKE SWIMMING LAPS IN A POOL FULL OF MANURE!!!! Anybody Google Ricky stator lately.....funny shit!

To answer your question.....silver Lake is a SANDBOX compared to other dunes. LOL. But it offers a super wide variety of types of sand riding. The hills aren't massive, but it's still a blast to ride and it's the only real shot you have at sand riding without needing to involve a semi- and a plane flight. LOL Look for the "Dune TV" videos on Youtube. You'll see all the different types of ride action. Especially in the 2012 teaser videos.

X2....I keep a rusty stocker around as a loaner for those who are learning the Ricky Bobby lesson first hand. They are blown away when I pull a nice new RS off and slap a 10-15 year old rusted out stocker from the scrap bin on and the ignition issues disappear.

On a fresh re-build......I can't tell you how many flywheels I've heard of that came loose..... Just pointing out something to check on. If you lost compression in 10 hours.......you forgot to mix oil in your gas. I'm betting it's not compression.

See, we continue to agree. I can't tell you how many people end up with ripped and torn boots or stripped out clamps from all the BS that goes into jetting changes with the stock carb/airbox. Or worse, the boots end up slipping off on a ride and the guy "Dusts" the motor. I'm not going to paint it like pods are invincible. You hit a deep puddle at high speed and you might get the Outerwear's wet enough that the motor will die. (It's happened to me 3-4 times) But by the time you get done with your "dude did you just see that story".....it will be ready to fire up again. But you won't drown the motor. I followed ROLLINRHINO all over The Badlands when he was on his 4X4 King Quad and I did just fine. (Now I don't try and treat my quad like it's a jet ski or 4X4 utility quad.....but I put it anywhere you could without risking needing a winch.) The way I see it, Outerwear's shed water off of them like water off of a ducks back. Filter boxes let you go into a little deeper water, and protect from splashes......but if the airbox gets a quick dose of water....it can only drain so fast out that little hole in the bottom. Untill it does....your filters and carb mouths are under water. Modded airboxes improve airflow, but at the lowering of the protection. This drop in protection (In my opinion) isn't worth having to mess with the hassle of the airbox when working on the carbs. Plus, you can't look at your bike from the side without noticing the condition of your pods. (I bang the dust off my Outerwear's on every fuel up.) But the filter in an airbox can get neglected all season. (YEARS for some owners. LOL) Just my thoughts on the topic......neither system in wrong. I'm just sharing a point of view.

No were not just talking peak HP. The curve that leads to the peak number is power too. You have never seen a curve go straight up at the very end. It's funny that we see plenty of posts where people remove the airbox lid and have to go up a pilot size or up one on the main.......That's on a fairly stock motor! If your motor is modded, airflow is an even more important factor. I think in Sprinklerman's example...the limiting factor was more due to the carb size, than the filter box. (But I'm speculating.) I don't run air boxes. Working on stock carbs, with an air box is almost as annoying as messing with adjusting a stock rear carrier. LOL Way worse when your doing multiple jetting changes during a dyno session. I run pods on a 370 long rod bike and that machine has been down the entire length of the river at "The Badlands" in Attica IN. Once going up stream and once going down. (Water deep enough that my nerfs and shifter were under water.) I just run them with K&N's and an Outerwear's. I went everywhere that a Raptor 700 with a full air box could go.

Was HIS post unreadable? He asked for small bores......

No. It proves you were making 75 hp WITH the box. No evidence as to how much power you were losing. NICKISGOD was running the aftermarket aluminum airbox on his 485 Cheetah motor. He made 81hp with it.......and 95 without it.

Ms. Piggy....DUH!

Over 100 replys (in the post alone) and not a damn one was positive. LMAO Even the one or two people who have had one that didn't fail were quick to point out that they knew they were just lucky. So......that's like a 98% failure rate. LOL

Yeah, buy some Small Bore Shearer In-Frames and just install them. They fit fine and make the most power for your motor. At worst you might need to space the head pipe hanger out a 1/4 to 1/2 and inch. I just used an extra stainless nut as a spacer. Now all you gotta do is find some SB In-Frame Shearers. Good Luck.

For climbing coal hills?

Stay in the gas. Never lift.

Quote of the day! Perfect example of Ricky Bobby Garbage. Oh great opportunity here to show us what your customer service plan is......What are you going to do Ricky Stator? You don't sell flywheels anymore.....and his whole package is hot garbage. How are you going to fix this problem? Send him NEW hot garbage?

I ran one all last season. It's been on a few for our dyno bikes too. I'm running it on my 10 mill cub this coming season. If you are looking for a new unit. This is the only one I would spend money on.

That's what you want. You can get that Q style for total sound control, or go with the Turbine core which is a power core with a spark arrestor. The Q will have you quiet enough for sure. I think the Turbine core will keep your motor quiet enough...but if you want to be on the safe side, get the Q style. Fatty's ,Golds, Gnarlys all use the same silencer. Only the SST pipes use a different one.

No........I didn't buy it from Sniper. Buy the V-4's for what your doing.

Thank You....Thank You.....I'll be here all week. Remember to tip your waitress.

He said it's an RS flywheel too. (Really Shitty) Note: even the rep said that stopped making them 2 years ago....wonder why?......hmmmm When we all this gear bought? Old stock sold recently?

If your reading any of this info about your RS gear.......then you have your answer.

Stock or Nology. I run a stocker on the wife's 63HP bike and a Nology on my 100+HP ride. Sold off all my dyna stuff.....

http://4wheeldrive.about.com/gi/dynamic/offsite.htm?zi=1/XJ/Ya&sdn=4wheeldrive&cdn=autos&tm=35&f=00&tt=14&bt=0&bts=0&zu=http%3A//ohv.parks.ca.gov/default.asp%3Fpage_id%3D23037