WINDYCITYJOHN400

FMF FATTY'S They can make up to 70HP and still have great bottom end and overall power. If you need spark arrestors for state trails you can order your pipes with Turbine core silencers.

Jerry.......who is bashing Chariot? I'm not. Am I missing something here? Trinity's offering puts the carb so close to the reeds that the "path" leading to the reeds had very hard angles. I haven't used a Chariot because I have had great success with the Graydon design. But Graydon isn't in production any more. All the Chariot products I've seen look very nice. Who's throwing Chariot under the bus? Is it happening in the shoutbox....cause I'm not sering it here?......

Elka's! Shearer pipes. 39PWK carbs V-4 reeds Mod the tranny with everything short of an override.

No.

Cody, you can't go wrong at Silverlake or even Baldwin trails with a +6. Our ride group hits both areas and nobody in the group runs less than a +5. You can go with +4 if your passion is riding wheelies. But if you want to drag that bike and make the most of that motor and tire combo....I'd go +6. Call Stellar or a site sponsor and get a chromoly round carrier style arm. NOT an ebay mild steel unit.

Make sure you rejet that bike with bigger jets. Your going to need 27.5 pilots and the mains will need to go up a bit. (those Vito's pistons add 7hp but they also need more fuel.) Get some FMF FATTY'S with the turbine core silencers so you'll have the spark arrestors in place for trails and dunes. Since your starting out....do the front wheel mod to widen the bike. (you remove you valvestem, insert it in backwards so tall part faces in, then drill new hole on other side of rim and install a new valvestem.) now you can install front rims on backwards and the offset change will widen the bike almost the same as A-arms would. Get a good wider axle and your set. Great starter bike for trails. Keep your eyes open for site members selling Works shocks. They are a great affordable upgrade.

LMAO. I was going to finish it...but I just knew somebody was going to catch it.

36-24-36

Time to re-jet. People who foul plugs have jetting issues.

Thanks for the resume.....But I stayed in a Holiday Inn Express last night, so I'm not impressed. Kinsler Mechanical injection??? Umm sorry Dad, but drag guys who want to go fast use sheet metal intakes, superchargers, turbos and this new thing that is out on the market now called "Digital Fuel Injection" The "Real world experience" that I was talking about was in running a single carb on a Banshee. Sorry...I wasn't looking to have you get all Butt Hurt and overcompensate by giving me your whole Bio. Sorry, but we're really talking about a Banshee that make somewhere around 60ish HP. At that point, thinking you need twin carbs to squeeze every last ounce of power out of it is ridiculous. At those power levels carbs won't do shit. But like you said...."You like to do things the hard way."

Not bad for a one off piece. The angles are a little severe. The graydon design has smoother intake angles. But since the guy already had intakes, this didn't turn out bad. Very nice work.

4 's are the top performer. Plenty of feedback if you do a search.

Your needles or jetting were off. Nothing should "Fall on it's face" until your pipes sign off.

I agree completely. This is one point I can't make clear enough. The billet ones do keep the carb nice and close to the reeds, but the airflow angles kill the flow. The ONLY style single intake I like is the Graydon. No they don't make them anymore....but they pop up on Ebay all the time.

Yeah, yeah.....now you trying to debate something based off theory not real world experience. Hey NASCAR motors are 8 engines fed with one carb. Gee are those guys dumb huh? If you want "crisp" throttle...you run a single or twin 28's. If your motor doesn't make enough power to justifiy bigger carbs....then why do it? I can make 70+ hp with stock 26's. I can also make 70+ hp with a single 35PWK on a Graydon intake. So...why tune 2 carbs if it isn't going to do anything for you? Ever done a jet change on a single? You just roll the carb to one side and have easy access to the main jet. Gotta change a pilot? Just pull the carb cap and fuel libe and the whole carb come out it you hand filter and all. 1/2 the jetting work, 1/2 the throttle effort, better protection from water and mud since it's totaly behind the motor....like a tail. Don't bash till you know.

^^^^^^^ X2

Or maybe your inept at tuning a single. Don't listen to that crap. I have a bike that was running a single and after switching to twin 28's showed virtualy no change. Plus all my shit is dyno tuned so I don't have to bore you with stupid Butt Dyno opinions. I'll just stick with FACT. Till you hit 70+hp...it's not even an issue.

PM sent. More than interested. Cash offered. Waiting for PayPal info.......

Bigger motors suck more air thru the carbs. This creates more suction pressure on the jets. (Known as signal strength) This added suction causes extra suction on the jets so they flow more fuel. (Picture sucking harder on a straw. Your going to get more drink up the straw than if you sucked lighter.) NOTE TO ALL YOU COMICS WAITING TO POUNCE: SUCK IT! So don't get caught up in thinking bigger motors needs bigger jets. The smaller the carbs, the more this effect can take place. Trust how the bike feels. If it feels crazy rich...then it is.

Eventually those lightened ones all explode and frag everything in your side cover. The stock ones stretch and grow as your riding. The lightened ones develop stress cracks where the material goes from stock thickness to the cut thinner areas and sooner or later fail. I could see using them in a form of riding where bike speed stays more steady, like circle track or MX (Where your not needing the extra mass to get you going) But in those same forms of racing....your accelerating the eventual failure of the flywheel with the sustained high RPM's. Just my 2 cents. You can disagree

Stators are a common topic in the Banshee community. We all have had our own or heard of another's troubles with aftermarket stators. A few site members have made a name for themselves helping members by rewinding stators on the side for people. But Evan from RaceTech joined our site and offered up some of his products to fellow members here for them to test and experience for ourselves. I'm happy to report that I have had an excellent time with mine. I just contacted him about putting one on my wife's bike. (DC model for her's) I have been vocal about the quality of his product since it's arrival last year. It's spent a full season in my bike as well as being used on several bikes that were used for dyno testing throughout this past winter. Never a hiccup. He's been great to deal with and by offering up product for testing, has shown complete faith in the quality of his products. His services have been ideal as well. (You can call and he'll help you with any questions you might have. I had a few since I'm converting my wife's bike to the DC unit and switching to some bright lights for her bike.) I just wanted to post a little review here for anyone looking for some feedback on dealing with Evan. GREAT PRODUCT! Pick the model of your choice and buy with confidence! RaceTech Electric Stators FTW!

Trying NOT to say Trinity. But yes the one I have is a Trinity model. (Only damn thing left on my bike from that frickin' outfit) But for the record, I did take it to a Catholic church and dip it in the holy water to cleanse it of all the bad Ju-Ju and treat it for the Trinity V.D. before I used it. (No JOKE!) But there are a few companies that make them now. I'd advise you run one of the other brands. LOL. But for the record....my RaceTech Electric brand stator is running awesome despite the fact that it's mounted to a Trinity product. Now THAT'S Saying something!

Just go +6

A DM with a -2???? Why?

I've tested Evan's stator. (From the original batch he offered out for testing when he first joined HQ) His product is a top quality offering and fills a need we Banshee owners have always struggled with. The OEM stator is ridiculously high priced, so nobody can really afford to buy one when they need a stator. The used stuff is a roll of the dice on if it will work and you can almost never be sure how old it is. Evan's pricing is fantastic and as you can tell...he knows what he's talking about. His product is not going to let us down like "Ricky Stator" has all these years. Buy with confidence. Glad to see a guy step up and fill a void in the sport, while also staying accessible for help and advice. If you run a stock flywheel that makes no noise when you shake it (no loose magnets) Then run the RaceTech stator of your choice along with an adjustable timing plate (I prefer the models that move the pick-up coil instead of the entire plate) then couple that with a good OEM coil or a NOLOGY coil/wires and you will have one solid ignition set-up.