WINDYCITYJOHN400

Stock rear shock can be made into a nice useful unit. Factory fronts are good for a static display and holding the bike off the ground. If your planning to do any riding other than in a grass field, then the stockers should be one of the first things to be upgraded.

How long has this motor been in use? Is this a fresh build or a motor that was been together for a while? What mods? Any recent changes?

I'm assuming he's got the axle out. I'd hate to think he's staring at the bike and just wondering how to remove the hub.

He's not talking about finding a flat spot and dragging for 4 seconds. He's talking about duning. You know that thing everyone else goes to the dunes to do. The parts with the whoops, bumps, jumps and sometimes includes airtime. Blake, call Matt ^^^Above^^^ I'd talk about ELKA's, AXIS or at the least WORKS.

Your going to lose big. Bring some Salsa and a toothbrush cause your going to be eating shit all day.

Wait....back up the bus. Steven...are you saying heat cycles aren't necessary? (I don't want to incorrectly quote you now)

Your flywheel came loose. Happens A LOT! Inspect for damage. Take flywheel off and shake it hard. If it makes noise like a rattling than your flywheel is toast. If it beat up your stator, contact Evan at RaceTech Electric and get a new one headed your way. Then get some valve lapping compound from your local auto parts place and put it on the tapered part of your crank as well as the flywheel. By hand work that thing like a doorknob to mate the two surfaces so they take the same shape. (You can't possible spend too much time on this part of the process.) When both surfaces have a nice equally frosted look, you will know that they now match. Now using brake cleaner, clean the crank and flywheel of all lapping compound. Next get some blue or red Loctite and smear it on the crank end and the flywheel. Now (Using a proper flywheel tool) torque that flywheel bolt 10 pounds past factor spec. Let it sit over night so the Loctite can set up. End of problem.

Have you ever thought of taking English as a second language?

They have those....they call them TRX450's.

First you post wanting to find a way to run higher RPM's than 10,000. Now you want a motor without race porting? Um....your not going to crest into the high RPM's with a stock port timing. Maybe you should read more here on HQ before you jump in with both feet

Sometimes that peddle can be hard to get primed. Right hand on peddle, left hand on bleeder wrench......Push peddle down making pressure, open bleeder, keep peddle down, close bleeder, let peddle up, repeat. I run a small hose from the bleeder to a small jar of brake fund, so you can see the fluid enter the jar. I'm essentially bleeding all the way to the jar since I keep the hose in a pool of brake fluid at the bottom of the jar. This keeps air bubbles from getting sucked back into the line. You can bleed with the cap off so you can keep an eye on your fluid level. You suck one air bubble in and your back to square one. Bleed till you get no bubbles into the fluid of the jar. Keep going till your fluid all looks new. (My +10 line took a while. LOL) If you are at it for a real long time....maybe you have an master cylinder issue.

A "Shop" should know enough about engines to at the very least advise him to run some WAY bigger jets. That way it goes out the door jetted fat and protects the product from an under educated owner. (That's your insurance as a business) The fact that one side burned down that badly indicates that there might have been an air leak on that side of the motor. If all you did was slap a new top end on his lower half without doing any inspections, then that's not engine building. It's just assembly......Well regardless of what you were asked to do, it's at the very least Not Professional. When you say "It ran great" do you mean it idled great? Do you have a test track or area you are able to dial in machines? It doesn't sound like you did anything other than assemble a top end. Tuning was left completely to the customer. Now I'll admit that it is the responsibility of the owner of a machine to keep it in tune correctly, but if someone is paying you to put a top end on, clearly they don't have any mechanical ability so they really should have had their hand held a little more. If you put this top end on....what was the final piston to cylinder wall clearance? Did you just figure it's a kit, so everything must be fine? What was the compression? Squish? Did you check the condition of the crank? Were cases split? Did you clean the carbs so you knew the jets were not clogged? More to the point.....since you charged like a pro...did you do pro work? I mean you don't even know what the timing was set at! Your not really sounding like a builder with knowledge about motors. Your sounding like a guy who cleans mower carbs, changes spark plugs and swaps parts. Everyone is going to be paying for their education on this one. Your going to be learning not to take on projects that are above your pay grade. Your customer is going to be learning that if he doesn't know shit about performance motors, then he better find a shop with a owner who can teach him. Guess what we would be telling your customer if he came on this site, posted those pics and told us about the build you did for him. We would ask just what his "Builder" did.........then we would be telling him to find a real builder. Lesson - Don't take your Banshee to Cooter's Mowers and Muscle

Hit it with your purse?

Bought a +2+1 Roll Design stem from Troy. I called dibs on it late on the 25th and asked for the PayPal info. I got the info and paid him on the 26th. It arrived on the 28th! THAT is how you do a sale people! As Troy says, nobody want's to wait around for some jackass to find the postoffice. I couldn't agree more. Now I have the stem and awesome weather this weekend, so i'll be enjoying my day in the garage upgrading a bike. Thanks Troy! Sell more stuff so we can do business more often. Great price, Great packing, Insanely fast shipping = Great Seller

Cool It's getting close. I just got a +2+1 steering stem that I'm looking forward to trying, so now I have some wrenching to do before the trip. There ALWAYS seams to be wrenching to do before a trip.............

Look at a modern 4 stroke piston. It's a glorified dime with rings. A banshee piston has height and mass. Running a Banshee motor at sustained high rpms over 10,500 causes piston tops to begin to lift away from the body of the piston, rings lift clearances change.......it's bad. Long story short.....don't try to reinvent the wheel. Your going to end up with more negatives than any gains would be worth.

I agree. You DON'T need carbs for that set-up. Other than making jetting easier, there will be no gains in buying carbs.

Wow what a great deal. For $20 dollars more he can get brand new 4's.

For a 472? That motor size will like a SB. I had a 472 and a 492 and dyno tested both. The BB pipes are made for the 535+ motors. Call Mat and get the 411 from the man himself.

LOL. Your going to need some stronger combacks than that if your going to hang here.

PM sent

Would you spend $7000 for this bike? Or even $5000 for a roller? http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=152721

LMFAO Don't let CAMATV hear you say that.

Yeah, I'm aware. I've been into drag racing since birth. Keith Black was a family friend. My Basement is decorated with Warren Johnson's rear drag rims with Kurt Johnson's tires mounted to them and I use them as end tables. My 85 Cutlass has Digital Fuel injection, Vortex J-Trim Supercharger, OLDS DRCE block, Twin nitros tanks.....yeah I've been to a dance of two. But I don't use any of that experience to justify an opinion. I have actually done dyno testing with 1 carb vs. 2 and KNOW what I'm discussing. I was just pointing out that 100% of the Ego- enforcing he was spewing had nothing to do with 2-strokes (He's a resume guy. He'll tell you everything he's ever done in life before you even know his last name. New guy to the site, so I guess he's got to flex his manhood.) None if it is relevant, let alone prove a point as to how or why a single carb on a Banshee works. Now he's backpedaling. NOTE: Zillaguy - Try just reading for a while. Since your into antique dirtbikes and Quadzillas, and didn't join this site until just recently, I'll assume your new to Banshees. Maybe they have beaten you often. Now if you would like to post up some video of a mechanically injected Banshee....feel free. Let's not confuse Zillafreak with Zillaguy. Zillafreak has been here for a while and knows enough to be worth listening to. Carry on......

I run my KOSO unit right off my lighting circuit. You need to keep the lights on or run a small adhesive grip warmer pannel on the bike to scrub off excess voltage spikes. But it runs fine. Or have Evan from RaceTech Electric set you up with his DC stator and just run a small RC car battery under your seat. KOSO has a nice model that also will do water temps along with twin EGT's