WINDYCITYJOHN400

Place your 2-stroke mixing oil on a folded paper towel. Then buff the insides of your cylinders until you can do that and not see dark spots on the paper towel. Then you KNOW all the hone residue is off the cylinder wall surface. Plus your cylinder walls will have a nice thin coat of oil on them. Oil your ring grooves and rings and work your way thru all the oil galleries of the rotating assembly.

Right. Buy a rim half......Then learn to make anti-sieze your friend.

http://www.chem.purdue.edu/chemsafety/Training/PPETrain/dblevels.htm Here is a basic db chart. (Your not at 105) LMAO

105? No.... Your on a basic bolt on Banshee. (less than 50HP) My wife's bike is a 63HP fully ported 370 long rod bike with FMF Fatty's and it doesn't crest 97db. (Tested by Michigan DNR TWICE!) Every 10 DB increase = a doubling of the sound volume. You should go to Radio Shack or a similar store and buy a DB tester. They are cheap. Then go have your local cops test the machine per state specs. Get the chief to sign off on it and have him write your tested db on the back of his business card. Then your set. If your pipes are packed...your not breaking the law. Don't cave in. Be pro-active.

Only if the compression is high too. He's set up for pump gas.

The billet impeller does not pose a problem with flowing water too fast to cool. That is a myth as far as banshees go. If you want the #1 cooling system you do all the cooling mods #1 billet impeller #2 Mull metal impeller gear #3 cool head of some type #4 larger aluminum radiator #5 Engine Ice #6 a water temp gauge you can see! With those tools, correct jetting, a clean radiator and airflow thru it. You should stay cool. Other than that.....if your running balls out. Don't hot lap the bike and then just stop....do a cool down lap. Give the radiator a minute to cool all that hot water you just made.

That's why I posted early so everyone has time to plan, spin wrenches, call friends and make time. Are you bringing a few people?

Oh course the Michigan guys get the good stuff.......your close enough to go Fire Bomb his ass if he screws you. I won't buy from him, cause I have no problems with a road trip if someone really needs to be educated. LOL

I use velcro to mout to the back of the gas tank. It fits in front of the seat and to the stock tank fine. Should fit even better on those aluminum drag tanks. CDI leads run right down to the stator leads. Even less wire than any other set-up. Plus easy to swap CDI's if your having a problem.

Some of the drag guys wanted a simple system without any extras. No un-used leads. Nice of Evan to make just what they asked for with all new product. (We all know what a shift star mod is....now we can have a drag stator mod. LOL)

I got the DC kit for my wife's bike to make the most of the extended ride hours at the Silver Lake dunes this season. Now I just gotta get some sweet High powered lights to go with this new rockin' D/C Stator. I'm sure the drag guys are going to LOVE that stripped down Drag unit.

It always comes down to you turning it into a big game of King of the Mountain with you standing on your trophies and proclaiming yourself the greatest doesn't it? Tyler is the greatest! Bow down and be thankful that he told us what his combo is. We should all be thankful that he shared his greatness with us. If you have not beaten Tyler at his chosen sport, then you clearly cannot comment on topics he involves himself in. If you own a Cub motor....ANY SIZE Cub motor....Clearly your a dumb shit if your not running out right now and buying BB pipes of some kind to strap to your machine. (Buy the way....he HATES Mat Shearer and his quality. So run that brand, but be sure not to be happy about it!) DO NOT trouble yourself with the effort of researching how or why a pipe would be a good fit for your motor! Don't even try to put words to the topic. It's a wasted motion. Tyler has done all the research needed on the topic and has made his opinion known. I thought I was just another member of the site trying to share information. I thought at worst someone might engage in a debate in which information would be exchanged. (Like dyno sheets, timeslips, butt dyno impressions) J-Madd was headed that route..... Nope.....Straight to insults and discrediting.

No. If your stator is good a new one won't improve your power. If you want a hotter spark, get a Nology brand coil with the hot wires.

Ricardo, you finally posted something funny. Had to forward that one to my Brother-In-Law to chuckle over. (Reminds up of some of the Father-In-Laws work.)

Then you missed some Classic time laps video of that goon doing that build. All you have to do is quickly scan the post for the OP's Avitar. (Easy to see it's bold bright red) Any time you see it....Fresh info.

I never said every 4 or 10 mill motor would need the SB pipes. (But I at least attempted to explain the variables and why understanding them is important.) But why does everyone seem to think "Their Motor" is the exception to the rule? (Cause they are stuck in the bigger is better mentality.) You swapped from Original Rockets to BB Shearers and didn't even talk to your builder about it. Why? What would lead you to think a pipe designed for a 535 cc motor would work best for a 465? What "Variables" were in play with your build? You have always been vocal about your fondness of the Original Rockets.......How do they compare to SB and BB Shearers? Where do they fall in terms of size? What port timings are they designed for? What are the heat tendencies? What made you switch to BB Shearers? The point I worked so hard to explain is that unless you understand WHY a motor liked one pipe over the other.......you don't really have a complete grasp on the comparison.

Start with a big ass weighted rubber mallet.

With no information as to WHY..........

Real information comes not in burps and farts of small puzzle pieces, but in soliloquies of content and context.

Oddly enough it can even be bad cases. I had a motor once that had so much slop in the bearing support sections of the case, that the crank would wobble causing a High RPM air leak. Could be a lot of things, bent crank could be one...

The answers you seek with all be revealed to you in due time young Jedi............

Ok, now that I have the keyboard as well I'll add my 2 cents. The 421 (4 mill) and 465 (10 mill) cubs are not the best match for a BB pipe. (As a matter of fact, Mat's newer SB OOF pipe was completely redesigned following the massive interest of the 4 and 10 mill motors so that it would be the hands down best pipe for Alky in those size motors.) Many have run BB's, but it is a compromise pipe choice. Many do it because they think that bigger is better. Mat designed the BB pipe for 535 and higher. People who run the BB pipes on smaller motors and claim better numbers than SB pipes, are usually running high compression and really advanced timing. That tricks the pipe with the amount of heat that is put into it. The pipe starts to "Act" like it's smaller. So that's why sometimes a BB pipe can work. But Ideally you could make a simple adjustment to the dome and with less compression and timing, make more power with the SB pipe than you would with the BB pipe. I'm amazed at the number of people who will buy or build a motor and then start wondering what the best pipe choice is. Nobody is running crazy off the wall timings that have never been tried. This topic has plenty of people with skin in the game. Your port timings and compression levels will be a strong dictator of what pipes will even be close to a match. A simple call to your builder or a pipe builder will give you 90% of the info your going to need. The relationship between your domes and pipes are also very important. Making a simple dome change can do a lot to get a motor and pipe working well together. Timing is key too. So many people think that running crazy amounts of advanced timing is like turning up the wick and making more power. In reality it's more of an indication of a problem with the activities in the combustion chamber. (Why would you have to light the air/fuel mixture way before the piston hits TDC if the burn was happening effectively?) Long story short.....many have developed practices they think work, but aren't aware of why. Why is high compression and advanced timing favored by some?.....Because they also felt their motors were So Bad Ass that a SB pipe didn't sound impressive enough, so they went BB. Side effect was they had to run a ton of timing to make the pipe work like a SB pipe would have. End result - They tuned to the wrong pipe. Now if those people slap a set of SB pipes on....the SB's will be WAY down on power due to all the things they set the motor up with to optimize the BB's as best they could. I'm not saying that there are hard and fast rules about pipe choice just based on motor size. But if you think your motor needs a BB pipe when the SB pipe was designed for your size motor......then I'd only say you should be able to describe WHY. Same goes for people that say "Mine liked the BB's better than the SB's"........WHY? It's OK if they don't know and don't care. But it's in turn, an indication of the lack of understanding as to what is really going on and without the bigger understanding....they also miss out on the bigger picture and the better choice they might have been able to make. PERFECT EXAMPLE - My 472 Cheetah first hit the dyno with CPI BB In-Frames (On the advice of Mike at CPI as well as all the dune riders who claimed the CPI's have better bottom end.) Swapped to Shearer BB In-Frames and gained 14 HP!!!! Swapped to Shearer SB In-Frames and kept the same top end power and the bottom end torque curve matched the CPI's perfectly. Final pipe choice netted all the top end as well as low end with no trade-off's. (Both Shearers pulled about 800 more RPM's over the CPI's as well.) But most important in that lesson was coming to the understanding as to WHY I got those results. Always ask WHY! The answer IS NOT "cause it made 5 more HP on the dyno." The answer IS NOT "Cause it went 2 tenths quicker at the track."

Try removing anything that says Trinity on it....................

Knives are great for slicing cheese. Right about now what this thread needs most is CHEESE.

Women should all come with a price tag. If they did, it would be very sobering on your first date. Guys like Hugh Hefner have figured out how to work it all out like a lease! LOL