WINDYCITYJOHN400

#1 - I can tell you what pilot you need in my sleep. #2 - you have your needle and airscrew as lean as possible. So you are basically running on nothing but main. Your main might end up TOO rich once we add more fuel with pilot and needle. Or you might be pretty spot on with the main. #3 - start with #30 pilot, needle in -3, airscrew 1 1/2 turns out.

That screw is sitting in the drain area on the top of your engine cases.

You are LEAN! You need to get some #30 pilots in that thing before you burn it up. Buy the way….that aluminum air box will bite you in the ass sooner or later. (FREE advice here….feel free to ignore it) I'd just switch to K&N pods with Outerwear's. But you'll figure it out in you're own time. Top clip is the LEANEST setting. (Lowering the clip RAISES the needle) 3 turns out on the airscrew is the LEANEST setting. (You always want to be between 1/2 turn out and 2 1/2 turns out.)

Wait…..I'm having a Crocodile Dundee scene flashback….... They should round up all the wolves and coyotes and sent them all the jail too. (Obviously the snowmobilers were drunken fools who thought they were member of a lion pride.) We could try blaming Marilyn Manson………but instead let's just blame the nature channel. Let's keep it in perspective though……"Chasing" is not mowing them down and doing burnouts on the live carcass. (I TOLD YOU burnouts would bring you more heat than chasing deer!)

^^^^ THIS! They can both clog up if fuel turned to varnish. Like he said…….Might flow enough for low speed use, but get those blows draining quick and the petcock can't refill in time. Might be some serious piston damage by now. pull fuel petcock , clean and test. Then pull your pipes and look in at the piston skirts and tops for any damage.

You can SHOOT it………...just don't CHASE it. DEER JERKY = GOOD BEING A JERK TO DEER = BAD You can shoot at it with a bow and arrow or even a gun………but for the love of GOD….DON'T STARTLE IT with your ATV. Hey…..If I have a hunting license…... can I "Track it" with a utility quad till I'm close enough to move in for the kill, then drive it back to the truck on the front rack of the quad? Can I be EXTRA liberal and avoid the use of guns and just kill it with the front rack of the quad? LOL

The idiots who wanna speed test on a paved roads or do burnout contests on your street are going to get way more visibility in the public eye, as will the morons who show up at the ER with an insurance head trauma claim from riding without a helmet.

^^^^^Always worked for Fonzie.

So.......do these deer call the police and report the ATV riders? Or is the liberal media now paying for extremists to wait in the trees for the random Deer/atv encounter to happen so they can post it on TMZ? Here is a clue people......the fucking liberals shut shit down over the THEORY that bad things MIGHT happen. Last year polar bears were in danger due the melting ice......this year tgey are in danger over TOO MUCH ice! The theory doesn't have to be proven or sound. It only has to sound proven. Your local ride spot has a better chance of being shut down over erosion concerns or bird migration then it does of deer trauma. WE ARE NOT THE PROBLEM BLEEDING HEART LIBERAL IMAGINATION IS Now pay Sally Struthers .20 cents a day to go feed the children And then go chase some damn deer. Just where a helmet when you do. Bare heads give us all a bad rap. LOL Concussions are the latest scare concern of the media. You can mow the deer down in a fit of rage.....just don't get knocked out in the process. GOD HELP US ALL IF ONE OF THE DEER IS GAY....

We have a smaller Snap-on wheel balancer we do the ATV and motorcycle wheels with.

THIS ^^^^^^ Is the BEST way to go. Good the hear this advice is sinking in.

1/2 credit to each Good job guys. I love a happy ending.

When your motor is intaking Fuel/Air into the cylinder, the exhaust port is open. Fresh air and fuel flow out into the pipe behind the last exhaust pulse. As the piston moves up the cylinder, as it closes off the transfers, the exhaust port is still open. This compresses the cylinder and pipe. (At this point you can push fresh air and fuel out your pipe flange) The shape of the pipe causes the pressure wave to have a RAM effect and push the fresh intake charge that flowed into the pipe BACK into the cylinder. (This is that pipe hit feel) This boosts the cylinder pressure higher than it would be without a tuned pipe. If the pipe flange leaks at the cylinder, it can cause fluctuations in your final Air/Fuel mixture. It can cause one plug to read different than another, make finding the right jetting difficult, lower available power, not to mention make the front of your motor a mess. LOL I'm not saying a pipe leak will cause a problem as severe as what you have going on…..but if you had a pipe leak PLUS a small seal leak and or maybe in intake boot leaking….they can add up. Last season my buddy made a jetting change in the dunes to a good solid motor that had been together for 2 years. Soon after the motor suffered an RPM runaway. End of a drag race the motor just wanted to stay pinned to the moon! (Race gas motor. Not alky) In his efforts to do the jetting change, somehow a small intake gasket leak developed. That cause one cylinder to go lean. That cylinder then detonated hard enough that over the course of a few back to back dune drag runs, the cylinder lifted just enough to cause a base gasket leak. THAT was a BIG leak and caused his motor RPM runaway. So….point is….you can run for a while with ONE problem and not notice it till it causes a SECOND bigger problem. The trick to good diagnostics is not to find a problem…but to find ALL the problems. Ever heard of a top end letting loose and then 2 hours after the rebuild it goes again? That's a common knock on Banshee motors. But it's the result of people not solving ALL the problems. I use RTV sealant in addition to the O-rings to seal all my pipes to the motor. There have been a couple of threads about that in the past.

Nothing wrong with 9's. If your motor is making any power it will need them. (You gotta know how to read your ground strap to know)

Leak test. Also make sure your pipes are sealing to the cylinders well. Check those O-rings.

ROFLMFAO

Chased jetting in the dunes. Would run fat for a while, then go crisp lean. Changed a ton of jets till I figured it must be something big. Put it on the dyno and the A/F readings would go wacky as the RPM climbed. So did a leak check. Turned out the cases were trashed. Bearing surfaces were letting crank move. The crank seals weregetting wobbled by the crank. Caused the seals to fail. The massive airleak would make it damn near die. In the sand it was hard to judge if it was rich or lean. But the dyno clued me into a bigger hidden issue. Leak test pinpointed it. Leaks can be odd. Sometimes heat causes them to get worse. Sometimes heat seals them up. Leak checks are just a cheap and easy first step in the diagnostic process. May not be a leak....but at least it would rule it out.

You have definitely done the leg work on trying to find this issue…. If would lean towards checking for an air leak. You already ruled out electrical and fuel. I had a machine once that lost a seal, but it only happened when it was under a hard load. (Like yours does above 1/2 throttle)

LOL….Just found this on Craigslist >>> http://swmi.craigslist.org/mcy/4442455944.html Had to log on here to ask why. Saw this post. She was just riding this last weekend at The Badlands! LOL Clean bike folks. Great seller of course.

DUNCAN RACING BUMPER OR NO BUMPER AT ALL!

Trinity only sells compression in batches of 50. Their powerbands only come in powder blue or pink.

Trinity parts carry 2-stroke VD. Let it touch your machine and you'll NEVER find a cure. Trinity parts are like little kids with lice. LOL

Pulling a head is not tearing a whole engine apart. It's SLIGHTLY more work than a jetting change. Learn to wrench early....it's better than wrenching later.

Raw chicken

I don't know what you all are talking about...... TLDR LOL