WINDYCITYJOHN400

You get the idea.

Not of full fender bikes. But I have 2 bikes with race cuts and custom paint jobs that are fine. Every bumper cover on the road today is plastic and they are ALL painted.

You'll be winning all the races then. LOL

Clean the carbs. Remove jets and clean with brake cleaner. Check float levels Inspect choke tube. If that get's done and you still have issues....delete TORS and do a leak check.

Seriously? FFS Hey everyone! Listen up. THIS is his thread. WE are all here trying to educate this moron. FIRST we were tryibg to help him with his motor. NOW we're trying to help him with his social skills. Let's try leaving him alone. TRULY ALONE. Let's see what great insight and advice he's able to come up with on his own. He deserves 48 hours of crickets. He's so capable.... Let's just drop him till he posts up his results.

I'm ALL IN (but I'll be on the YFZ450R) Since I broke my swingarm on the BADLANDS HQ RIDE and the new one is still being made. Wes will be coming along with me with his Raptor 700.

You keep saying your recent purchases are the reason you don't go "all out right away" But the REAL REASON is that you have ZERO clue what All Out is, or how to get there. Here is a little clue.....It involves a Shit Ton more effort than "air-fuel-fire".......

72 bore is a 521. Just saying. Maybe you step you instead of down?

.$$$ brag $$$ blah $$$......and powdercoat.

#1 - I'm not SKEETER #2 - You don't have 2 PM's let alone 25.... #3 - Everything I said stands. Stop digging. The hole you're in is deep enough.

DUDE.......You are too stupid to know just how far up your ass your head is. Air - fuel - fire? How hard can it be? You know how to port? Port what? A head? I could provide you with winning port work and if you put the wrong dome or pipes with it....it will run like shit. TOP site members have TRIED to give you info. You are in WAY over your head. Six days into ownership and your shits out for powdercoat? We should be impressed? Sounds like you're all show and no go. How dumb will you feel when you read a post about brakets you can cut off your frame BEFORE getting powder done? Here is a clue. Before you tell somebody to fuck off.... (especially Sprink or 06) try glancing at thier post count or join date. You are pissing off some valuable resources. In turn you piss off other resources. You just made my "Pay no mind" list. Ace Mercedes mechanic? FFS....another part swapper who think ASE spells ACE.

My tech advice is catching on.

Or buy some vito's super stock pistons. You'll get good compression a 7 HP upgrade and can practice jetting before you drop coin on your Serval and risk learning to get good at it on a pricey motor.

Well you are still on the right track with the #30 pilots. If it's TOO muddy and won't clean up with airscrews...then it might like 27.5 but it should like the #30's best.

Um….NO. ^^^^ If a cylinder is running rich, your tailpipes can be wet even after riding. Even if your motor is firing on both cylinders. You can often see bikes with oil all around the front of the motor from exhaust leaks at the pipe flange. This is just a sign that the pipe O-rings are not sealing. It's also a sign that your machine stands a better chance of fouling a plug than it does of burning down. Sounds to me like his motor just got flooded from his carbs feeding too much fuel. Or that one cylinder has more assembly lube to burn off than the other. Sometimes motors will foul a plug in the initial heat cycles. I HIGHLY doubt that any of the info provided so far would lead to a CRANK seal diagnostic. If you had a crank seal leak, it would more than likely go lean and have a crisp throttle or panic rev. Not the opposite. BUT…..he SHOULD do a leakdown test.

You can make a TON of power and still have reliability. The only thing that really makes these motors unreliable is OWNERS who do a poor job at JETTING. Simply doing a bore and a 4 mill crank isn't even going to get you in the 60HP range, so your not compromising reliability at all. BUILD ON!

Without sleeves the general rule of thumb is 66.5 I however have a 66.75 in my long rod bike. That makes mine a 379. No way you can go 67 without cracking cylinders.

If I chase YOU long enough you'll have one too.

74HP of O-ring blowing hot mess. LOL

I doubt you have a 380 bore. More likely it was bored "30 over" which is actually .030 over stock and only = 356cc It is worth basically ZERO as far as performance. Same story for the "Boost Bottle" But WELCOME You found the right site to guide you toward some real power. Start reading everything you can………….

Same as always……..hit it with your purse.

Jesus! Now you're not only going to need a good tow strap.......you're probably going to want a satellite phone, a leg splint, cooler of ice, bottle of Advil and a big bag of oil dry. Say good-bye to your luck. I see case sealer in your future. LMAO

Buy some rattle can chrome paint. Make a half hearted attempt to mask off the part. Spray kickstarter with chrome paint and let dry. Take pictures of machine and list for sale locally. Buy a 300EX Join a Honda forum till your air pressures get too low and you need to sell the 300EX.........

Ok, you are on the right track now. Your new filter set-up will be fine. (Don't go treating your machine like a JetSki) LOL Once you have your new filters, you can dial in your main jetting and needle position.

Using that airbox. Forget that Toomey mess. Put K&N filters with Outerwear's right on your carbs. As for your worries about mud and water......you worry too much. What's worse...getting your filters splashed? (Ever heard the phrase Water off a ducks back? ) Or picture what water would do if you dumped a 1/2 gallon of water into the top of that airbox. (Here is a hint....the box FEEDS it ALL right into your carbs.) The LAST guy who didn't take my advice on that exact airbox went out and hydrolocked his motor with an airbox full of water. (I think he ended up doing a full rebuild.) Plus I have repeatedly dyno proven they rob HP.