WINDYCITYJOHN400

SERVED! Can't wait for the new calico cylinders for the Blaster...

Gee...didn't realize that the banshee was just one small inch away from perfection. So I guess the deal is...you take a bike that was making @ 34 HP and bring it into the 60+HP club, and you all think the swingarm needs to then be -1 shorter. So you can "pick the front wheels up at will." Really? Cause I thought that was what the 60 HP was for. I use that little lever connected to the carbs...that throttle thingy. I find when I hit that like I mean to...the bike jumps up like I stuck a finger in it's exit hole. Maybe some of you should talk to your motor guys about a HP issue. I guess I'll try thinking like you guys for a while....let's see..... I guess a wider bike can't turn as tight as a narrow one. A shorter bike sure must feel alot better than a longer one cause you guys just won't stop raving about a -1.....So I guess I'll go back to a stock A-arm and axle to narrow up the bike. (I'm sure it'll fit through tighter trails that way....I've always wanted to ride the Mountain bike trails with a banshee) Then I'll get a -1 arm so I can turn a U turn on the deck of a snomobile trailer. (That'll make loading easy) And while I'm at it I'll see if I can get some taller shocks for more trail ground clearance. Sound like I've joined the club? Now I'll have a narrow, tall, short bike with over 60+HP, and since it will turn the best ever....I guess I'll be faster than before.......except any time I'm not turning. Maybe instead of doing a -1 arm on my machine, I'll just drop a 4 mill Banshee motor in my kids Raptor 80 and eat you for breakfast. After all...you can't get much narrower or shorter than that. Man think of the traction I'll have with all of that motor weight along with my weight on the rear tires. I'll look like I'm running a go-kart motor on a rollerskate....but I guess that's the hot look now huh? OK, you win. -1 rules!

You can get them for Freakin' $30 bucks! You can't afford $30 bucks? Who buys your fuel and oil? Buy the kit. You'll be glad you did. EVERYBODY DOES IT.

Some will say they ride a 421 cub on woods/trails, but in reality the best motor for the kind or riding your talking about would be a nice 4 mill ported stock cylinder stroker motor. The cub will leave you burping the gas all day and never feeling like you got to really open it up. It's best as a dune/drag motor. Not really designed for the dirt type stuff, unless you are near alot of fire roads.

SKILL? I'm not sure how making your bike shorter so it will turn tighter is skill. I think making a bike longer and making it still turn tight is the skill part. (learn to use the front brake more and get back into the gas before you let off the front brakes and you'll see that bike pivot on a penny and you'll be hitting the pipe sooner) But the -1 crowd are hard core stuck in that 80's mentality that tucking the tires closer under the weight of the machine somehow "adds" traction. Funny thing is....I'll be bikes ahead of you in the first turn because I don't have to lift off the gas or scrub off power by slipping the clutch to keep the front down. But what the heck, I knew someone would bash the +4,+6 statement...so I just bashed the -1 first. He'll know what works best for "his style" of riding. The -1 is (at best) for the dedicated MX ride. Sorry, but if your going to climb any hills, race a track with long straights or drag it for fun against anyone, than stretch it a little. If your going to race on a small backyard BMX track with kids on blasters and raptor 250's and run in 2-3-4th gear all day...go with the -1 arm.

Deal. Pipes are off the market. Bump for great seller.

I'll take the pipes. PM sent...First in line.

A +4 arm will help you in the handling department. It won't make your bike so long that it can't turn, plus it will keep the tires on the ground so you CAN turn. I've got 2 banshee's that we're running on MX tracks with +6 arms! Eveyone says we look like we're racing on limo's, but they jump great and nobody can believe how hard we can come out of the turns. (That whole -1 arm crowd must race against blasters on a miniature golf course) Once your making the kind of power that new combo of yours will be making, a stock swingarm will only limit the amount of throttle you can use. MY VOTE: STRETCH IT +4 to +6!

Go with this one. KOSO DIGITAL Runs on a watch battery. http://www.bizrate.com/motorcycle-parts/oid1764375132.html

X3 !!! They paying you for your advertizing? You won't even get a free can. Bet it won't even get on their website. But the colors will look great. Maybe you could go with the Gravedigger theme......(Like that hasn't been done to death too... ) I know, I know.....Go with a banshee sporting the "Extends" paint sceme. With a +14 arm.

Well with a screen name like "Trinity banshee" I'd recommend you NOT spend any cash with Trinity for starters! Please read the "Trinity Blows" post in the product reviews section before responding.

Yes you can.......You can also put a black protective "Bra" on the front plastic to protect it....You can install new "Raptor" shaped plastic on the front end.....and you can ride in a skin tight pink leotard with bright red lipstick on. ALL of those idea's would be totaly GAY!!!!! Winch on a Banshee??? WTF? Everyone knows you don't "Winch a Banshee"....you only tow them back to your truck after they blow up! (Hate if you want...you know it's just too true. ) Do like the others said...Drop a gear and "Pin It" till you smell anti-freeze. Buy some new tires for Pete's sake....

Hate to step on your pipe comment, but I have the CPI pipes on my 472. I also put the bike on the dyno and guess what? The CPI's only made 81HP! And wouldn't rev out for crap over 9,800. Out of frustration We slapped a set of the Shearers on that motor and saw a 13HP increase without even re-jetting for the Shearer pipes! pulled clear through 10,500 rpm's without dropping off hard like the CPI's did. Also the lower rpm curve matched the CPI curve. So You won't loose that "Bottom end" that people claim you get with the CPI's over the SHEARERS. Shearer small bore inframes make 10 more HP from 8,500 to 10,000 rpm. Call Matt at Shearer and he'll verify. You can ask "Mailman" on here too. He's done over 160 dyno pulls on his 492 and is a freak about testing stuff. He's even posted dyno sheets with comparisons of the RDZ,CPI,SHEARER pipes.

Full drag porting and your wondering why it can "barelly be ridden in the woods" ??? Well, there IS a reason WHY many people say a cub isn't a great choice for a woods/trail machine. A cub makes all it's extra power in that upper RPM range. Your "Full Drag Porting" will only add to high reving nature of that motor. Now spend your time in a high rev mode in 2-3 maybe 4th gear at lower speeds and your not going to get enough air into the radiator to cool that motor. Also full drag porting will require a nice high flow set of pipes. Don't know what your running, but it might be backing heat into the cylinder over time while you ride. REASONS YOUR CUB CAN OVERHEAT WHILE TRAIL/WOODS RIDING #1....Your jetting is Lean. (Always the first thing to think...because 80% of the time THAT's the problem) #2....You need an aluminum radiator. (Not the most likely issue, but the real problem is most likely jetting and since most people won't bother to go a few jets richer to see if it gets better....why not throw money at the problem?) #3....You have an issue with the water pump impeller or it's drive gear. (Get a billet one. I've got one on my 472 cheetah and it's fine, so don't listen to the billet impeller haters. Might as well order one along with your new aluminum radiator.) LOL #4....You put a drag motor in a trail bike and are wondering why it's over heating. Could be because it's drag ported and making so much power that the tires just spin and the motor just gets hot. (Wonder why John Force and Jeff Gordon don't just put race motors in their street cars? ) #5....If you bought the motor from Trinity....It's because the domes are the wrong shape and your detonating. Do like the last guy said...Back that timing out of it. Then go a size smaller on you pilot, but go a size or two bigger on your main. (should clean up your mid and stop the higher RPM Lean/Detonation that's most likely causing the overheating issue.) Get a temp gauge too while your at it.

I agree completetly. I still run my ModQuad cool head. (I'm not going to sell it and get a different head just to not have a ModQuad part) And as you read in my post, the only issue I had with it was the dumb washer design. (Copper washers fixed that) I did see the post with the damaged area along the O-ring seat. But if you have it on and it's not giving you issues....ride on brother! BUT...... if your dropping coin on shiney new parts and still have time to choose.....

I bought the high dollar clear window billet stator side cover. You take a picture of one of those mounted on your bike with a gear slammer shifter and post it here and I'll shut up. (YES THAT WAS A CHALLENGE!) Till then, quit pimping ModQuad in every post like it's the best thing since sliced bread. They ripped off JJ+A on the axle design and almost every situation where an aluminum axle has broke and people bash JJ+A, it turns out it was a ModQuad axle. I only got the side cover because the "Brand" of the cover wasn't listed in the sale. Had I'd known it was "ModQuad" I would have passed! Of course you run almost 90% ModQuad on your ride....you sell it. Trinity salesmen run Trinity junk too. That don't make it good OR fast!

X2. Mine IS the new style one piece head! I don't like being a company's R+D team. Cut the parts...try them on your own ride or offer them to "Test Subjects". I'm not into re-designing stuff after I drop coin. I had to oval out one of the bolt holes in my stator cover just to get all the bolts in. In the world of c+c machines...how do you botch a simple bolt hole layout? Had to clearence the inside to fit my after market timing plate too.

Don't know if this will help you but, I had the same problem with Torco 110 and VP 110. I finaly ended up switching plastic gas cans. I was using the "Parts Unlimited" twin handle plastic tanks (blue in color). I'd get fuel that was dark purple and within 2-3 weeks it was a light pink/brown and wasn't crystal clear any more, it was milky. I tried everything. Cleaned the cans out with a brush and brake cleaner, flushed them, covered them to prevent the sun from breaking down the fuel, they were only stored in the garage out of the sun. Still had problems. My best friend only rides when I do, at the same places, at the same times, runs the same fuel, runs the same oil, and stores his the same way. He never has an issue. I finaly asked myself...."What is the one difference between him and me?" The answer was.....He's not running the same brand fuel jug! He was using a VP jug. (blue in color like mine) So now I own 3 new VP clear/white jugs and I'm not having any issues. I did a test where I left glasses of fuel sit out open for a week and the fuel acted the same as it did in my old cans. So the best I can guess is...Those jugs were somehow letting the fuel breath and all the mineral spirits were evaporating out and letting moistier in. (That's all just a guess...All I know for sure is MY PROBLEM ONLY HAPPENED IN THE PARTS UNLIMITED JUGS) Hope that helps you out.

I'd steer clear of the "Mod Quad" head. Mine looks great and you would think is nice and strong. But the rubber covered washers that come with the kit expand out, become snagged/threaded on the studs and lock the head on forever! You can't lift the head off if you need to do some work. I had to pry the head up,( without ruining the O-ring grooves ) then pick the washers to the top of those sunken openings with a dental tool to be able to get my head off. Then run to hardwear supply to get copper washers to replace the Mod Quad junk. I've got 2 Mod Quad items.... Cool head = washers act like retaining washers and won't come off without a fight. Billet stator cover = Won't work with my Cascade gear slammer shifter. Who builds a stator cover that won't work with everybody's shifters? Never whould have figured that would be an issue. Trust me, an awesome shifter is alot more important than a shiney side cover. Mod Quad = a guy with a c+c machine who doesn't think 2 steps ahead when carving aluminum and listing it. The only thing good I can say about MODQUAD is.......they aren't TRINITY.

Nick, Now you just have to get that Trinity sticker off your machine and update your picture so we will know your bike is fast now. LMAO.

This kits going on my ride. http://www.kapscomoto.com/Spider-Pod-7-in-1-Color-LED-Motorcycle-Bike-Accent-Light-Kit-p530.html

I had them on my Trinity 400. They sucked. You may have run them on a 521, but I can promise you they were more than "a little choked up". I'm sure they will be fine on a stock motor, and the stainless finish is a plus. But my Toomey T-5's made more power on the 400 than the Trinity pipes. If you can get them to use on your stock motor for $250.00 or less, than I'd say go for it. Otherwise I'd look at an FMF fatty set-up for overall power that you can grow into as you build your bike. As a rule.....I steer people away from Trinity. But for a stock motor bike.....any pipe will make an improvement. Just don't pay money for them new!

Welcome to the site. I'll help you out with this one. Start by going to the "Product Reviews" section and reading the "Trinity Blows" post. (Sadly, I've owned 2 Trinity motors so I'm doing you a favor here) Then look into finding a nice 4 mill stroker stock cylinder motor, maybe with a big bore for the less expensive blaster piston. The cub will not fit what your looking for well. It will use alot of fuel and isn't the best choice for trail riding. Your T-6 pipes are fine for a bone stock Banshee motor. (That's what they were designed to be best on.) But on modded motors or anything bigger than stock.....they suck. Sorry, anything you do to add performance will require different pipes. I'd recommend keeping an eye out in the classifieds. You will get more for your money buying a running motor from a member, than starting from scratch. Good Luck.

Mailman has got this. He's in good hands.

I've got the scott 87's and love them. I've run them for years! I'm 40 and have some big "old school" lenses. They fit in the 87's fine. Get'em and a set of the quick straps and your glasses will never be an issue.