WINDYCITYJOHN400

I don't know......I don't get the clear hose thing. If your bike looks any good at all, the hoses should be the last thing you need to draw attention to. I've never noticed the color of Pamela Anderson's shoe laces, because the stuff that I'm supposed to look at on her is doing a fine job of holding my attention. I can live with it if your color scheme is coolant green or Engine Ice blue and you have the clear hoses...But I do agree......those frosted clear hoses that look like my kids bendy straws from Chucky Cheese look dumb.

Well that would be the second thing wrong not the first. Unless there is a first problem....the cap wouldn't need to release any pressure. But yes. you would think you would be getting water out the overflow at least. If that isn't happening.....then you may have a cap issue on top of the original problem. If the cap was bad, you could throw "non functioning water pump" into the diagnostic list along with the o-ring/head gasket idea.

Any time I get any kind of backfire....I go straight to the flywheel. If you just had it all apart and fired it once......it could have come loose. If it doesn't star easy, it could be because it's sparking at the wrong time. Once you rule that out.....do like they said and run a pressure test for an air leak.

TRUE. And sometimes a flywheel that WON'T seize can be a big PITA too.

That's all kids play compared to trying to fix a Trinity build. I'll take pulling bearings or freeing up stuck bolts over trying to make a $2500 aluminum doorstop into something that runs. But of the poll choices.....I'll pick the Swingarm bolt. (They don't stick if you grease the snot out of them before you put them in.....or coat them in Anti-sieze.) But when you buy a 20+ year old bike that has been neglected....somebody has to do the dirty work to bring it back to life.

I bought mine at NAPA. It's light green with a bright red core. High temp radiator hose. Same stuff you get when you but the high end pipe couplers from Cascade. Depending on your pipe you will need either 7/8" - 1" - or 1 1/4 I think. I just brought my old on in and matched it up....

On the flip side....your view is why I like dyno's. Everybody likes what they have and thinks it runs great. We have a guy who makes 65 HP with FMF's and single carb on a dune ported 370 motor. He kicks the SNOT out of another friend who has Toomey T-5's with 35 PWK's on a 421 cub motor. So with the seat of the pants dyno experts out there........We would have to conclude that - #1 - FMF 's out run T-5's #2 - A single carb makes more power than 2 #3 - a good 370 motor is better to own than a cub #4 - And dyno's must lie, because a 65 HP bike is beating a 421 cub. Members have claimed their 421 cubs have made 99HP with T-5's....So either 421's only make 60 HP, or a 370 can make 100. A dyno is a tool for tuning and research. It's not about mine vs. yours....it's about Before and After. We FIND on average 5-7 HP on the 2-strokes we dyno. 2-3 HP on 4-strokes. And ALL of the owners think they know how to jet and read plugs! But they ALL pick up tons of mid power, better idle and more peak. A dyno makes your bike fuel injected....YOU are the ECM, and the dyno is all your sensors. The Tune is still up to the computer...and the computer is YOU.

Go to auto parts store and buy high temp silicone hose. It's sold by the foot. One foot will do it with plenty to spare.

Ok, this debate is back to it's old roaring ways. I'm going to chime in here with some input as someone who has run a dyno and doesn't have a dog in this fight. It's easy to get all confused about loaded and unloaded runs. DON'T! Every dyno number you have heard in this sport is UNLOADED. Yes a load cell is an additional tool that can be helpful in the dyno tune of a bike. They are very helpful in holding a motor at a set RPM to study the Air Fuel Curve and power levels at that RPM as you adjust fuel injection settings. But how do you determine if the motor is loaded properly? What if the bike normally carries a 250 pound rider up a steep hill in deep sand? Will that pipe get hotter in real life than another guys? What if that 250 pound guy climbs that hill slowly and doesn't get a lot of air over the pipe? What if the dyno operator has a massive fan blowing harder on the pipes than the bike would see in motion? But I do have some serious questions regarding the info that was gathered on these back to back pipe runs...... It was stated, that NO Air Fuel Readings were taken. Yet this dyno is "Better" than most because it has a load cell and can test "Real world" conditions. Well, how do you know you were jetted conservatively if you don't have the A/F data? All these pipes were tested with 28mm carbs. Guess what? Your NOT going to see a Better flowing, higher HP pipe do well if the motor can't breath hard enough to take advantage of the pipe! If a customer comes and runs his bike on the dyno and his filters are filthy....guess what? It needs smaller jets than when they are clean. Less air = less needed fuel. I had a motor that with some BB CPI's dyno'd at 81 HP jetted to an A/F ratio of 13:1. I put SB Shearers on it and it jumped to 95 HP. But it needed a different jet to get back to the 13:1. Lesson = you have to re-jet to a common A/F if you really want to compare anything. (I'm not saying anyone "Leaned down a motor to make PC's look better" I'm saying how do you know WHAT YOU DID, if you don't have the A/F data?) Also, the gear ratio that was listed 14/46 is the opposite of what you do for an unloaded run. You want to gear the bike to be more like a 15/41 to lengthen the run, get more heat in the pipe and get a longer sample time. For me.....the issue here is that I'm not a firm believer that the 28mm carbs aren't part of the problem. Again...keep in mind that the motor we are talking about was built for EXTRA low end. Even more than the standard Serval. So the goal was massive bottom end power. Now I want to be clear here so people's feelings don't get hurt. Snop... built a motor that runs awesome. He likes it. The customers/friends he rides with like them. It fit's THIER needs well with the carbs and pipes he chose. I'm sure 28's work on his motor with those pipes. (We have Built stock cylinder bikes making 70 HP with stock carbs and FMF Fatty's) So it's not a stretch to think that a set of 28's can support 80HP with PC's. But I feel that slightly larger carbs might aid overall airflow into the motor, thus letting the bigger pipe do it's job better. I would have liked to see the pipes tested with 33-34's. I've run two into one carbs on a few bikes over the years and Snop always said that I should toss the single carb and get twin 28's. He tells people with 350's and a few bolt ons to get 28's. 421 Servals need 28's I've got 28's on a 370 long rod bike right now. I'm not a hater of 28's. But for kicks.....search Snop's post history. Apparently there is only one carb that has ever been the RIGHT carb for a Banshee.....and one pipe. Mikuni 28's and PC pipes for the win! Lastly, the silencer he says makes the most power is CRAZY long! It sticks out WAY past a factory rear grab bar. Now I don't claim to be a top builder, but I read what they post on more than one site. I'm not seeing a big following of PC support in the builder community. I would think that with all the R&D and desire to sell this new design...that if the PC was the BEST pipe...Calvin would be sure to have some people look into that for him. I'll be the first to admit that this cylinder needs time to try all these ideas. But in reality...we only have Snop's and Andy's dyno posts to base a lot of future theory on....... I still say that Snop's motor works well for his needs. nothing wrong with having a motor you like. Andy is selling the Serval like hot cakes too. But I still see some holes in to data that only time and testing will fill in. till then.....this debate will continue to play out. But lets not get all heated and hating. the goal here would be to share info so that the products available to all of us will continue to improve.

I'm thinking some kind of sensitivity alarm strapped on each bike that will pierce the thieves eardrums if he set it off. There are two models that work well for this. One is made in Germany - It's called the Shepherd model. The other is made here in the U.S. in Springfield Mass. - It's called the Smith & Wesson.45 But it would be a little hard for someone to steal your rims when your bike is jammed into a truck bed with a second bike. (Well....hard to do quietly) But it would be fairly quiet to cut the lock, pull the cables free and just roll the bike away. Maybe the route for you at this point in time would be to "Tarp" the bikes when you go to bed, and hang a handful of christmas bells from a section of the tarp. (Or put all your empty beer cans on top of the trap. LOL) That way if anyone messes with the tarp, you can spring into action. I tarp the bikes on an open trailer just to prevent the punks from lusting after my stuff in the first place. Don't get me wrong, it's cool to have people check out your ride and tell you how cool it is. But after they get a few beers in them and start HATING on you for having such a nice ride....it's not long before they get the "Robin Hood" disorder and start planning to take from the rich and give to the poor. (They of course being the poor.)

OK, first of all...if you have a bike that looks nice, your going to have to face the fact that your going to need an enclosed trailer to have any illusion of safe keeping. Second...A cable and lock or chain and lock will only stop the honest thieves. (Amateurs and rookies.) If you have never used a bolt cutter on a padlock, then you don't know how easy and quiet it is. I've cable locked every part I could on my bikes together on an open trailer in a parking lot at a hotel that had cameras aimed at the lot to protect stuff. The camera did a great job of recording the random guy who showed up late at night to quickly cut the throttle cables off my carbs with some basic side cutters and run off with them. If you can't afford a nice trailer because you spent all you have on the ATV.....Rent an enclosed for the weekend......or be ready to "Share the wealth".

If they are the model that has the metal center section....then yes, they can bend. (It would have taken one hell of a jump to bend the center section.) If the rims have taken a big hit, try disassembling them completely. Then put each of the carbon sections in the freezer. This causes the molecules to somehow realign back as they were formed. (This worked wonders on the old BMX "Z-rims".) Then reassemble the sections, torquing everything evenly and try spinning them again. Or option B - Call hyper.

For what ever it's worth......"Snop" posted most of the Serval with PC dyno numbers. I think in needs to be mentioned, that he built that motor to be used to do "Tree Shots". The idea was that they have to get on and off the throttle when the motor is at Mid RPM and the bike needs to pull from a HEAVILY LOADED condition. (Tree Shots are very steep hills of sand with a slalom course of trees in it.) So it wasn't really of high importance to have a motor that pulled on the top end. The main goal of Snop's motors is to have good power immediately after you have lifted off the gas and gotten back into it. Also, most people have not seen a Banshee with the silencers he says you need to use. They are the forestry approved model. They are a good 3-6 inches longer that a stander silencer. One of the guys in our ride group has a set and even my wife commented on how gay they looked. They stick out PAST the factory grab bar! Yes this would mean that a big wheelie can result in silencer end cap damage. I'm all for finding new ways to make power. With the serval, you get a ton of low end pull. Snop had a special need for way more low end power than most would need and with the way he set up the bike he was able to make the motor meet his needs. The beauty of the serval, is it takes the standard Cub power band and moves it down the RPM range to a lower level, so the motor doesn't act like a drag motor while eliminating the classic Cub light switch pipe hit. The carb pipe question is going to be a debate till we see some more dyno runs with more combos. I guess if you want more low end power than a 4-stroke...you could lean towards the PC's. (I'd just buy a 4-stroke...you can get those to 60HP easy.) But if you want great low end power and Banshee HP on the top...I'd still lean towards the Shearers with Carbs in the 30-34mm size. Two different styles of power. Neither is wrong.

I have been running a KOSO unit for 3+years. It's great. It's ALOT smaller than the drag based units like the digatron. It's about the same size as a trail tech vapor. The only issue that you have to be aware of is voltage spikes from the Stator. (The trail tech units are known for seeing these issues too.) You can run a battery or do like I do and just run the headlights to soak up the extra voltage. (On my last bike I just mounted a single grip warmer to run all the time and mounted the warmer to the frame under the seat.) The KOSO has recall, stores peak, has a red flashing warning feature when you get about a set point temp of your choosing, has fast reading probe and you can even get a model that will do double duty and act as a water temp gauge too. Plus the price is just right. EGT's can be useful. But for alky...leaning down the mixture doesn't effect the power as much as it does with gas. You can be pig fat on alky and the HP doesn't fall off like it would with gas.

You can think about them.... You can like them....... But DON'T talk about them. $9.00 dollars for race gas? Somebody is sticking it to you my friend.

Works dual rates!

If you yawn the carbs.....it's going to drink fuel. It's a Banshee, they do that when you mod them. If you like 34-36 HP, peak power at 6800 and gas mileage......ride a stock Banshee. If you want good power and gas mileage - Get a 4-stroke. They make about the same HP but have more low end torque. If you want to make power that others lust..... power that requires longer swing arms because you just can't keep the front end down..... power that pulls to 10,000 RPM...... then you have found the correct site! But most people on this site have a few things that they just aren't big on talking about because it's just not their thing. - Hondas 4-strokes gas mileage mens fashion

If you have to list your filters in a sales post........ Your bike ain't shit. What cool items aren't we getting?.........Like spark plugs?........Does it have those too?.....Grips?.......Does it have fresh air in the tires?

WHAT YOU SAY ????!! Watch your mouth Nick! People don't take kindly to filthy talk like that. You know that's not true............If you could do your Banshee life all over again.....you wouldn't have bought a motor from Trinity.

$625.09 ??? If I offered you $624.99....would I be a low baller?

WOW! Is this on a Holiday weekend? We have a ride group that is 15-20 people strong and we go once a month all summer....we only have 3 sound checks total for the whole group over 15+years! My bike is a full bling machine that is stretched 15" over stock. It's got the looks of a Cascade bike and a high HP 492 with Shearer In- Frames and I drive right through the check point. (Just wait ....I probably totally jinxed myself.)

He can ride at that age....but it has to be a machine that is sized for his age. (you'll have to check on that one....80-90cc's?) My daughter was riding a Raptor 80 there at age 12. She is 14 now and I'm hoping she can move up to a 250. Regardless.....To ride at Silver Lake....He is going to have to take an ATV rider safety course and get certified. Then he can ride along near you. The class is easy and the kids enjoy having an official check them out and tell them that they really do know how to ride correctly. ( They really like having an "ATV License". Makes them feel like they are close to driving. ) I signed my daughter up for the class and they let me take it with her for free. (We both got certified.) The course was very basic....if he's ridden at all...he'll pass. But mostly he'll have the added confidence that even someone other than dad thinks he's good. If you need any info on the ATV test program let me know. Let me know if there is a month your thinking of and I'll forward you our dune dates.

It means that your an addict. Your hooked on HP and your about to spend some cash!

For what you want to do....+4. If you want to ride wheelies. (Balance and ride them) The +4 is perfect. But if you were looking to set it up a little more for drag. Then you would want to go +6. (My wife's 63 HP bike runs a +6...but she doesn't want a bike that punts the front end so high that you have to worry about going over backwards.) Tim at Stellar is the best! (He did my +10 custom arched) But you should be able to find a nice used +4 and for most riders if you crank up the spring pressure the stock shock will be fine.

I've run CPI BB In-frames and Shearer SB In-frames (Both with clamp on Sparky's) at Silver lake on my Gas 492 Cheetah and not had an issue getting in and out. Now if you pull up with out OOF pipes or running Alky......you might have an issue. But they honestly try to NOT test bikes that that are kind of loud. (They aren't TRYING to catch offenders.....they are just trying to meet a minimum required number of checks per season.) My wife's 370 long rod motor is fully dune ported by D+M and I'm running FMF Fatty's with the Turbine core silencers. They have tested that bike twice and both times with fresh new silencers it was still 1 Db from getting turned away. (They let me by and pulled my wife's bike over to test it.) Trust me....my bike is ALOT louder! LOL. But in 15+ years of going to silver lake, we have only had 3 bikes sound checked ....Ever. They are MILITANT about spark arrestors, but a lot more lax about sound checks. But the bikes with OOF's all come in the place in the beds of pick-ups. When you thinking of going to SL? We're up there once a month all summer....