WINDYCITYJOHN400

Larry, you always crack me up. Well, your going to get flamed for your original attitude for a bit, but your taking it well, so.......Welcome.

HOLY CRAP! I don't think that motor seized.....I think it IMPLODED! I wonder if your going to have ANYTHING of value in that motor. What did he do, run some nitro RC car mix for fuel? Any chance that motor had Trinity domes in it?

Ok, from when I just posted that last response till now, I already found (In a google search) a guy who said he bought one and it failed within 5 hours. Plus found out that Procom makes them for Alba. So..........sounds like you spent $100 and better be ready to spend even more pretty soon.

Wow.........(I think I heard a shot) So, if you already bought it and your happy with it.......were you posting just to let us know? I've heard many say stick with the stock CDI. I've heard many say they like the DYNA, but it can go out in the blink of an eye for no reason. (But it IS programmable.) I've even heard good things about guys using the MSD unit. But I didn't know ALBA sold a CDI. Who's unit are they putting their stickers on now? Can't believe "Pricks on here" would be too busy to help you out. Plus, this site has a search feature. (It's not always the best, but you could try it.) And I'm not 100% sure......but I think if your posting here.....you would have some kind of access to the "Internet". I've heard it has this cool thing called "Google"....you might try it. It even brings up this post when you do an ALBA CDI search.

Well since your question is actually about BOTH types of pipes being "Out of Frames"....... I'd say that the "Out of Frame" pipes have silencers. (mufflers) and the "Out of Frame DRAG" pipes have open stinger tips. (NO silencers/mufflers)

What network is this on?

Good call. I'd say go straight to buying the new head and avoid rolling the dice, but sometimes the budget says "Band-aids and pray" LOL If you get a new head, you can use the industries standard dome design and O-rings. (Makes it a lot easier to get parts when you have an issue.) Yeah........

Trinity has been known to have some major issues in the past with their machining. (Even thought they have CNC's) Everyone knows about their domes. But some people have gotten head shells that on one side had the dome supports cut .080 deeper than the other side. I personally had a head shell that had the domes recessed into the head instead of sticking slightly out. So get out the measuring tools and give everything a good look over before you drop coin on any replacement parts. Just a suggestion...........

K&N with Outerwears has stood up to my dune riding, as well as dirt. I pulled the air box off years ago and I'm never going back. If you want to track how well you filter system works, put a finger smear of white lithium grease on the inside of your filter pod, or mouth of your carbs. When you go to do maintenance on your filters, inspect the grease. If it's full of crap you know you have an issue. If it's still clean you know it's doing the job.

X2, best advice so far! I'm slacking, that should have been part of my answer. TRINITY = Raw Chicken

Check the dyno section, there is a post called random dyno discussion. Follow the plan listed in the first dyno posts and you'll get the most HP for the least amount of money right off the bat. Once to get your bike to that level, you'll be ready to get ported. But if you just follow that plan, your bike will beat most of the stuff you go up against, be very rideable and won't cost an arm and a leg. Welcome to the site.

That's funny......5 days of riding an the rick's unit was needing replacement. But I agree with you completely, and when you have 5 days riding left...you do what you have to do to keep riding.

The guys I know who run OOF's without silencers........run ear plugs when duning. If you want that loud effect, pull the perforated tube out of your silencer and go buy some 1" copper pipe from the home depot and replace it with that. I'm not promising a performance increase, but it will be loud as shit!

Yep, but I'd only bother with the Dyna if your going to do your own custom curve. The dyna is known for failing out of the blue. Not as bad as the stupid Ricky Stator products can......but the dyna does have a little less than stellar reputation. Stock stator Stock flywheel anybody's timing plate Nology or stock coil (YES the Nology is worth the hype and $$$) Stock CDI Whatever you run make sure your bike has a good ground connection.

Coil - NOLOGY CDI - STOCK

100LL is = to 110 race gas. Also, the planes don't need to make big power it altitude, they need max power at takeoff. Top builders like Tim Bond at Titan Racing have confirmed to me over the years that 100LL is a great 2-stroke fuel. The "Low "lead " is by aviation standards, not by auto. If you can still get AV gas.......do it while you can. Cause "The Man" is cracking down on the sale of it and treating it like a threat to national security. I live 5 min. from a large airport and I CAN'T buy it. (I would need to file a tail number and pilot license for them to even think about talking to me about fuel.)

A thinner gasket on the base would LOWER the port timings even more than stock. If the motor doesn't have a spacer plate under the cylinder, then it's all BS and more than likely totally stock. I've known people to go look at bikes that were claimed to be totally built, and with nothing more than a 13 tooth front sprocket, it will feel like it rips on pavement. It wouldn't be hard to check the facts before you buy.

Outerwears shed water like off a ducks back. How would you get mud all over your filters? The motor is in front of the carbs and way forward of the rear tires. Try it....you'll like it. You don't even have to take the filters off of the carbs when you jet. You only pull filters and outerwear's to clean and re-oil filters..

What's your squish?

Well Cam, I don't want to market to people who find what I have while looking for shock covers. I want to present what I come out with to the educated riders in the sport and let it trickle down to the common rider by way of mouth. Otherwise I'm no better than that dude selling those cheap ass shocks on Ebay. I want the members of this site to wrap their heads around what I release and give it a thumbs up or down. It's not as simple as "Just put it out there and see how it does"......before I put a ton on money into tooling costs (Over $12,000) I need to have some idea of how many people are going to possibly buy my products. SNIPER PIPES are out there for over a year, yet I think I could count on my two hands the number of members who have a set........and he still "claims" to be 10HP better than anyone. You keep saying you want to try a set....well if they are worth 10 HP, why don't you OWN a set yet? See...........it ain't as easy as you thought.

Cub only. So much stuff has been machined wrong on the entire Cheetah line of parts, that I wouldn't try to get into providing parts for those in any way. (I don't need the angry phone calls) I wanna make people happy, not be the guy that gives them the bad news.

More sound? Umm....get an Ipod. 2 stroke pipes are for performance. How they sound is either quiet or loud. Not better or cool. (You buy good sounding exhaust for your Mustang.) Now given that.....if you want "more sound"........run un-muffled out of frame drag pipes. For your combo your pretty good with what you have, but I'd go FMF fatty's. If you want louder, shearer small bores. (But only if you get some porting done.)

A Yukon XL.....with seating for 5 and enough cargo room to carry home an idea. Now THAT is what I call a "SUB-Urban"!

Your all missing the point. He's asking about putting Octane booster in the tank.......everybody knows it only works right if you put it in your boost bottle. I notice a big difference when my boost bottle runs out of boost juice. Powerband falls off right away.

Unless you plan on treating you Banshee like a jet ski....I'd just run the outerwear's filter covers. All my bikes have open filters and I run all over "The Badlands" and go blasting thru big puddles at Silver lake sand dunes without issue. Of all the riding I did last year, the bike only got the filters wet enough to kill the motor one time. I sat just long enough to ask the guy I was riding with the old "Did you see what I just did" question, and by the time we were done laughing, it started on the second kick and we were off. 3 gear changes later it was business as usual. We have one guy with that aluminum air box on his bike. It's a nice piece, but it doesn't mount to the bike very well near the carbs, so it puts a lot of force on the carb boots. Plus we dyno tune our bikes and nothing is more frustrating than having to remove carbs from a bike for jet changes when they a sandwiched between the intakes and the air box. I think that is the #1 reason to buy Mikuni flat slide 28's or 35 PWK's......they are a dream to change jets vs. stock carbs and air boxes.