BSHEE400

looks good man, did you add reinforcement to the upper hoop? are you planning on running full front fenders?

haha don't worry they just need to be broken in, but they will never have a huge amount of flex in them. my shifter sits quite a bit above horizontal but that's just the way i like. much easier for upshifts especially if you have your body positioned to the rear

do you run 22" rear tires? because yamaha04 has already said he runs 20's on the rear

21 - 7 - 10 here also

i've been running the duro power trails up front with a couple of years now and i love them. i'm with you i really like the squared off look i think they are a great all round tire and they're pretty cheap too clicky linky

man that's unfortunate, i hope he can make the deadline and good luck to you both

lol precision welds there

good stuff, that looks like fun. let us know how you do or have someone make a video

i've been running the steel ims one for two years now and it has never come loose, i do check it frequently just to be safe

i like the color scheme, i think it's unusual

the only time i ever get hit with stuff flying off the front wheels is if i go through water or sloppy mud, as for the twist throttle i do a variety of types of riding with it and have never had any problems but you will have people who hate them and think they are dangerous . try it and see if you like it, if not it's not a big task to switch back to the thumb throttle

i'd consider the fmf gnarlys also, they are a decent low end pipe and i'm sure you pick up a set real cheap

i totally agree with you that smaller carbs will make better bottom end power, but when i made that statement about "maybe some bigger carbs" all i had to go on was that he wanted more HP, he had said nothing about trail riding at this point. when i hear HP i think top end power

there is only one section of packing, from the spark arrestor back to the end cap is empty. so to repack you only need to open the allen head screws, pull the stinger and baffle section out, replace the packing and stick it back together i know this for sure because i completely disassembled mine and cut off about four inches so they are no longer spark arrestors just silencers hope this helps

wow looks like you got a great deal the frame alone is worth more than what you paid

i would get a timing plate and set it to +4, add some compression by milling the head or getting a head with interchangeable domes and maybe some bigger carbs or if you want to put a hurting on him just send your cylinders out to be ported

that really blows, nobody deserves to be treated like that. he obviously didn't give a shit once he got the coin. it's seeing shit like this happen that makes me only buy brand new parts from sellers with a good reputation. i say name and shame that fucker

yeah you can ditch them, the ac propegs only attach to the footpeg holes and the front upper motor mounts

the chariot plate is a nice piece for sure

i'd stay away from those "rev boxes", i had the amr one fitted which was meant to increase the rev limit and advance the timing (before i found this site) it seemed okay but not much of a difference over stock. because i wasn't sure how much it was advancing the timing i decided to buy a chariot adjustable timing plate and put the stock cdi back on, set the plate to +4 and the difference was night and day. the plate was one of the best bang for buck mods i've done, if i had known what a difference it would make it would have been one of my first mods. i've only heard good things about the dynatek cdi but have no experience with them

when i was cleaning up my frame i removed the stock exhaust spring tabs on the bottom frame rails (under the headers) the headlight mounts, stock heel gaurd mounts, the small box type tabs that the front fender supports attach to and the tors unit mounting tab. the ac nerfs attach to the upper motor mounts so don't worry about them

it's gonna depend on the sprockets you are running also, try going up or down a tooth on the rear to make up the difference. is it a stock type swingarm / chain adjustment

i can't comment on the swinger because i'm running a -2 but up front i've +2 arms 1" spacers and wider offset rims. i added the spacers so the front was the same width as the back. it sits about 51 -52 inches wide and have no issues with the tight trails

21x7x10 up front 20x11x9 rears i was running 18" kenda klaws but found it too difficult to get it to hook up once i started adding power

try samco or pwr