bansheesandrider

Teal and white was a 1992. They had white headlight housings, and I think the seat was teal also.But remember plastic can be changed and the only sure way to know what it is is to check the VIN on the frame AND motor and look them up on the chart on here.

A properly oiled and installed K&N filter with an Outerwear doesn't pass any more dirt than a foam filter and it passes far less sand granules. I have watched a piece of sand travel right through the pores of a UNI foam filter. The inside of my K&Ns and the inlet of my carbs do not have any dust on them.The inside of my air intake hoses on my F250 are spotless also, and it has had a K&N on it for the last 6 years. You are right that a foam filter can be cleaned rather quickly, but to properly clean a K&N takes a little bit more and then you have to wait for the cotton gauze to dry before you can oil it properly.

Sounds lean. You need to do a leakdown test to check for air leaks. If it pressure tests OK, then you need to look at your carbs, specifically thepassages for the idle circuit to see if they are plugged and not allowing fuel through. Also make sure you have the correct float bowl on the correct carb, the left is different from the right, and that you have the choke tube in place between the carbs. Once all of this is correct, you need to adjust your idle MIXTURE screws. Usually a TORS problem won't make it run crappy, it won't run at all. If it runs crappy, and it is a 97 or newer, it is a park brake rev limiter problem, which is a totally different circuit and not connected to the TORS in any way.

When I take the truck and trailer out on the sand I air down to 20-25, if the camper is on the truck, then I air down to 20. It is a 95 F250HD with a 9.5 ft. camper and a 6.5X12 flatbed trailer. My Gross Combined Weight is around 9300lbs going down the road with 2 Banshees, my crossbed toolbox and a generator on the trailer. I would not recomend airing down to 5 psi unless you have beadlock wheels, actually I would not go below 15 psi without beadlocks, because when you turn a corner you will roll the tire bead right off the wheel.

All you need for a ring is a small piece of exhaust pipe that will fit in the adapter.

I have a Trail Tech Vector, it is a Vapor without the tach. I had problems with the Vapor resetting on my bike because of the interference, even with BR8ES plugs, 1 or 2 9V batteries for power, etc. I even took the bike to Trail Tech and they could not fix it with every trick they knew, including 3 different units and 2 complete sets of sensors and wires. I decided the tach was too hard to read while riding at speed, so they GAVE mr a Vector and let me keep the Vapor also. I have the power wire spliced into the wire that goes to the voltage regulator and also supplies the headlight switch. I have not noticed any problems with the display being dim and everything works perfectly.

As far as I know, strokers use the same size bearings as stock. There are 2 different length rod for a Banshee,110mm and 115mm. Both rods are used with standard stroke cranks and can be used with stroker cranks although usually only the115mm ones are used for strokers. Depending on how it is setup, you use either 513 series or 795 series pistons which both take the same pin/bearing. As long as you measured accurately, then you have a set of non standard rods and are going to have to change them to get it together.

If I am not mistaken, on the stock swingarm there is a metal ring that the stock circular slider spins on and this metal ring must be removed from the swingarm to use a aftermarket slider.

Vht makes a paint called Roll Cage and Chassis Epoxy Paint in a rattle can. It is a flat black color and when properly applied and cured it is almost as good as powdercoating. I use it on stuff that can't be powdercoated or will need to be touched up and it works great. It should be available at any auto parts store that carrys VHT header paint, or maybe you can get it from Summit Racing.

I believe that Wiseco make 2 different OD size bearings that both fit a 16mm pin. According to the Wiseco catolog, Banshees and Blasters use the same pin and bearing. I believe you have the wrong bearings for the Banshee/Blaster application. Either that or somebody has put some rods on the crank that are incorrect which is HIGHLY unlikely.

Sounds to me like it is either a plugged idle circuit, a plugged pilot jet or possibly you got the float bowls on the wrong carbs- the left is different from the right. IF YOU HAVE A TORS PROBLEM THE BIKE WON"T RUN AT ALL.

Blasters and Banshees both use a 16mm wrist pin and I believe the same wrist pin bearing.

At one time, Ricky Stator was the shit. But then they sent their manufacturing overseas to China and it just became shitty. And it applies to all their current products- stators, flywheels, timing plates. Some guys have had OK luck with the Moose stator, it looks identical to the one offered bo Electrosport. Both of them run 2 seperate lighting circuits plus the ignition circuit, this requires that you run to seperate voltage regulators. One or two guys swear by the Rick's Electrics stators, but I had a CDI box from them that failed after less than 10 hours riding time. They did warranty it and I now carry it as a spare only. My personal opinion is the best thing to do is float the ground on a stock stator to get DC power, add a battery and run some LED or HID lights. HID lights draw a fair amount of power while they are firing off the ballast, but once they are lit up the power requirement is not that much and a stock stator will recharge the battery and run the lights.

Are you sure this is the size you need? Have you measured your jugs or are you assuming that they will clean up at that? I am less than 10 miles from you and know several places in the area that do good work, you can PM if you want.

Check the pickup coil gap to the bumps on the flywheel, it should be .017 inches. You could also try a different set of spark plug boots. check for good grounds EVERYWHERE.

It will work, you will have to install the heli-coil with red Loctite and let it sit overnight. Then go in and trim the ends so they are flush and grind/file/sand the inner end smooth to the carb bore. I used to repair a pressure switch hole on forklift aluminum transmission valve bodies this way and we had no problem with leaks. When you drill the carb for the heli-coil, use a drill bit that is one size smaller than what the instruction call for so you don't get the hole to big for the Heli-coil, this assumes your drill index goes by 1/64 increments.

Did you check the up and down play of the shaft with the basket removed?

How old is the bike/motor? Do you know the history of it? How has it been taken care of? If all you are doing is the topend, you could have left the motor in the frame as long as there is no damaged parts that have gotten in the bottom end. If you don;t know the history of the bike, I would do a complete teardown and inspect everything, it pays off in the long run as the bike will be more reliable in the long run. Remember not to half ass anything as it will bite you later. You can spend hundreds of dollars trying to save a couple of bucks. Pay close attention to the crankshaft clearances and runout, if you don't know what you are looking at send it to a rebuilder. Also look at the clutch basket, kick idler gear, the shift shaft. If you don't already have these items, I would think about putting them in now: modded shift star, modded shift shaft, billet water pump impeller, billet clutch basket, pancake bearing.

I did not notice any difference in power when I switched from pods to the Toomey setup, but I also had fairly small pods.

X2

If you use a regular bolt, you have to grind the threads off the end of it and put a rounded nose on it. When my carbs were done the holes for the bolts got drilled to big and I had to make my own screws out of 1/4 inch bolts instead of the 6mm ones they sre supposed to be, I used a lathe to take the threads off the end of the bolts and to round the nose. Except for the hex head on the bolt they looh like Mikuni parts.

OK, a seal issue won't cause this, it will just have coolant in the tranny oil and vice versa. An air bubble should have burped itself out and it would stop doing it. Both an air bubble and a clog should just cause it to overheat, which you said nothing about. Did you get the overflow hose on the radiator in the right place, you can get it mixed up with the air vent hose coming from the cylinder head to the radiator? If that is not the problem, then I would be checking your head gasket/O rings.

Take your stator cover off and blow everything out with air. If your stator does not meet specs when you test it, you have found the problem. If it is just slightly out of spec it will probably still work, but if it is nowhere close it is bad. When most stators go bad they become an open circuit which should read as "OL" on the meter, if yours is reading "0", that sounds like a shorted stator and possibly something, a loose bolt perhaps, has ran through it and there should be some visible damage.

When you replaced the stator, did you use a Yamaha part or was it a Made in China knockoff? My wife's bike did this, we went for a night ride,came back to camp and shut the bike off with the handlebar switch. The next day it would not start to put it on the trailer, checked everything when we got home and the stator was bad.

I have been using one on my bike since 1992, I got mine when you could get them from Toomey with a K&N on them. Both of the Banshees my wife has had have had them from day one. I am not positive, I don't have my parts list here, but I think the K&N filter number for it is RU0880. I like them because it is only one filter to clean instead of 2 per Banshee. When you have more than 1, you can spend alot of time cleaning filters.