bansheesandrider

It will start leaking tranny oil or it will fall off if the ears are cracked.

I would go with a stock stator as my first choice. A stator from Moose/Electrsport would probably be my second choice. Some guys will mention Rick's Electrics, but I had to buy one of their CDI boxes when I went to St. Anthonys, it was the only thing available, and it failed after less than 10 hours of ride time. They did warranty it after a major hassle, but I am now gun shy of their products as a whole.

It depends on the brand of casesaver, some of them DO mount there.

Do you have a roundhouse or stock style swinger? If it is a stock style you can grind out the slots on the lower fork so the carrier will move a little more and gain some adjustment that way.

The shorter shifters are for the people that have moved their pegs back and want to maintain the same relationship as before. If you want to move your pegs back and down, you can cut the peg off the mounting plate and reweld it to the plate between the mounting bolts. When you cut the right side off, leave the plate on the back part of the peg to make up for the step in the right mounting plate between the bolts. I think Cascade offers some "drag race pegs" that are moved back, bot alot of the race pegs are not recomended for jumping.

No, LRD never made D arms, that was either JP Racind or Lonestar Racing which bought out JP Racing when they were going bankrupt for the second time.

I run the Klotz R50 at 40:1. It is a full synthetic and it smells good to me, but more importantly, I have never lost an engine running it and I get very good topend life out of it.

Since it is not in spec, it tells me that either the builder did not know what he was doing or it is actually a used crank. Either way I would not use it as is. I would at a minimum take it apart and inspect it and the have ut trued and welded if everything is OK. If it is not OK, get it rebuilt or buy a new one from a reputable dealer.

Putting the "soft ring" behind the regular ring sounds like a good way to snag a ring in a port, but it is your money and you can put your bike together however you want. Just remember it cost more to fix it a second time than it does to do it right the first time even if you have to buy more parts now to get it right. At least if you bought different pistons now, you would not have to bore the cylinders again like you will if a ring snags. Do the pistons you have now have pins in the ring grooves to locate the ends of the rings so the ends don't get caught in the ports?

Take the stock lever and cable off. Mount the Magura master cyl. on the bars and route the hose the same way the cable was routed to the engine. Mount the slave on the engine where the cable clamp was, you may need longer bolts, and it seems something had to be bent,the little metal tab that held the cable in place on the clutch arm I think. Make sure it is bled out and the plastic hose is away from the pipes. Magura make a upgrade hose from braided stainless hose and I recomend it as my buddy that had the plastic hose melted his on the first ride. Did you try looking on Magura's website for the instructions? Good luck.

It is very difficult to get a voltage reading there because the CDI box is constantly turning on and off to make the spark. You need to ohm the stator, pickup coil, and main coil to see if they are in specs. Also check the pickup coil gap. When checking the secondary resistance on the main coil, you need to connect one meter lead to each plug wire, not 1 to a plug wire and 1 to the ground terminal like the book says.

Just unplug the TORS box. It is under the left side of the fuel tank right next to the coil.

I have used nothing but Wisecos in EVERY ATV, dirt bike, jet ski, and even a couple of V8 engines I have worked on. Never had a problem with them, but somebody on here is stirring things up by saying something to the effect of Wiseco is pulling a Ricky Stator on us and going to overseas manufacturing.

I have used nothing but Wisecos in every ATV or motorcyle I have ever owned. ProX is a cast piston made be Wiseco now, they are listed on the Wiseco web site. Yes you can set up a cast piston with tighter clearances than a forged piston because they do not expand as much, but if you use a machinist that knows what he is doing, he will set up the bores for the proper clearances at operating temperature and when the bike is at temp. everything will be fine. A forged piston is what you want in a performance motor- it is what is used in most professional classes of drag racing, it is recomended with NOS, etc. The only problems I have heard of with Wisecos is the guys thatare hand lightening them and go to far.

You can buy individual pieces for the FLEXX bars if they get damaged. I run the standard Renthal bars in the Banshee bend. I don't like the big bars because I would rather replace a set of handlebars than a steering stem or something else that would get damaged in a crash if the bars did not give.

Refresh my memory please, the stock cap does fit it right?

I tried to put a Vapor on my 89 Banshee and had problems with it. Whenever the coolant was still cool, if I reved the bike up the Vapor would do a complete reset. Most guys on here will sat you need a BR8ES plug to prevent this from happening, but I was already running one and it still did it. I tried every connection method listed in the instruction manual to make it work- all the different methods of picking up the tach signal, getting power from the wire that supplies the headlight switch, 1 or 2 9V batteries wired in both parallel or series, etc. Since Trail Tech is about 40 minutes away, I took the bike to them and let them try to make it work. They tried every trick they had in their sleeve and finally GAVE me a new coolant sensor to bring home and put in. I did that and rode the bike several time- every time it would still do the same thing. But, while riding it to see what would happen, I discovered that it was very hard to watch the tach and ride the bike also. I came to the conclusion that the tach wasn't really needed, if I did not know when to shift the thing after having it for 18+ years, I should give up and sell the bike. So, back to Trail Tech again, this time they replaced the unit itself and we still had the same problem. They suggested that if I didn't need the tach, I should go with the Vector unit instead- it it the same thing as a Vapor without the tach, and it fits in the same protector/mount. I agreed to it so they GAVE me a Vector unit(let me keep my Vapor unit) and a complete set of sensors and wiring AND 1 of their wire terminal kits with the crimper. I installed the Vector and have not had a problem since. Since I mainly wanted it for the speedo, odometer, hourmeter and temperature functions this has worked perfectly for me. If you don't need a tach, which is very difficult to read when you are flying through the dunes, I would get the Vector. I currently have the Vector powered by the wire that supplies power to the headlight switch and it works great, the display is bright, the indicator lights work fine, etc. This is just what my expeirence has been with it and there are alot of guys on here that have had no problems with the Vapor as long as they use a resistor plug.

Every Banshee piston I have seen only takes 2 rings. Is the soft ring an O ring? If it is then it might go on the crankshaft bearings. Some crankshafts use an O ring, instead of the factory style pins, to keep the bearing form spinning in the case.

I have never been able to find a half link for an O ring chain.

I used to run the Wild Country TXRs, but they quit making them in my size. I just put a set of the Toyo Open Country M/Ts on and haven't had them to the sand yet. I used to air down to 20 psi and that worked fine with my setup- 1995 F250HD 4X4 with a 10 ft. slide in camper and a 6.5X12 foot trailer loaded up, total weight was arond 9300 lbs. Make sur you air down EVERYTHING. Also, the dune grapplers are supposed to work really well in the sand. And when it comes to wheel size, most people in the know say your wheel diameter should not be more than 1/2 of what your tire diameter- that means a 15 inch wheel up to 31 inch tire, 16 inch for 32 or 33, 17 for 35 and so forth. If you want 20 inch wheels on your offroader, you should be running 40 inch tires. This is so you have enough sidewall flex to get good traction.

9X9 When you are talking about wheels, the first number is the wheel diameter and must match the last number in the tire size. The second number in the wheel size is the width and must be close, usually from 2 inches smaller to the same, as the size as the middle number of the tire size. On the Banshees that came from the factory with this size tire, the wheelwas a 9X9.

It all depends on what you want. Do you want a bone stock bike that has not been molested and fucked up that you can setup the way YOU want it? Or can you find a bike that has some or all the mods that you want and you may have to fix a few things on it? Just because a bike has pipes on it, doesn't mean it has the pipes you want or need for your riding style or location, which means you might still have to buy pipes. Also, the price of bikes depends on location, here in the Pacific Northwest Banshee prices seem to be higher than other parts of the country, so your deal seems pretty good to me.

Oh yeah, my personal Banshee has lost a total of 10psi(185 down to 175) compression in the 7 years that I have been riding on the current topend. If dirt was getting through the K&N then I would not be getting that kind of compression still.

I don't have anything that runs in a clean enviroment, the quads are sand exclusively and the F250 is my commuter truck, my RV puller that goes in the sand, my farm pickup that goes out in the muddy fields in the fall, winter, and spring and the dusty fields at harvest. As I said, ther is no dirt or dust in the carbs, throttle bodies or intake tubes of any vehicle I own. Most people do not know how to properly oil a K&N filter after it has been cleaned and that is what leads to the problem.

My wife's first Banshee had Fattys and Cascade silencers with a Toomey 2 into 1 K&N style filter. I had 290 mains, 27.5 pilot needle clip in the middle position and the air screw, which is on the side of the carb, was at about 1,75 turns. This made it start easy, it was the wife's bike and she did not complain, and run great with good power all the way across the range.