RadarRacing

Take this advice tho. I use the billet intake with the crossover too. Take it apart and yamabond the 2 pieces together as wel as yamabond the boots to the billet part. All those things leak and they just get worse over time. I had a huge airleak recently from mine. If I had a gas bike instead of an alky bike running really rich I'm sure I woulda burned somethin up.

I actually couldnt stand the vent lines running over the top of the carbs like that so I cut the vent lines and ran em down just like a normal ventline and they worked just fine like that.

Where you racing? In Mo? Those look pretty nice.

I know its your first post but if you do some reading on here you'll get a lot more info. Basically you can not jet your bike properly unless you ride it and check your plugs.

A lot of that has to do with the stock shock and a +6. That back 6 or more yrs ago is how we all rode and dragged. One of the billet lowering links and lowering the back about 2" helps tremendously. A bike that's high in the rear will spin and then when weight is transferred and the soft shock squats it will wheelie. I wouldn't go longer I'd just work on settin it up so it will hook and come out of the hole hard without wheeliing. I think you have the right tire and length now but setup is everything. Jeffs stock cyls are awesome runners.

Kinda need more info about your bike and what you are wanting to improve the most. If its performance then maybe a pipe upgrade depending on what you have. As for appearance there's, wheels, polishing, seat cover, billet steering clamp, brake res cover, water pump cover, polished clutch cover, ASV levers, magura clutch. Many many things.

On the other end of the pipe there is a difference. The smallbores taper down to the stinger before they really curve in towards the middle of the bike, the bigbores curve in towards each other and actually are fat still just under and inside the top frame tube. Mine actually crowd my lectrons but my 4mil likes bigbores.

Tim you didnt miss much this wekend it was pretty cold. We went both weekends and last weekend was really nice as well as warm other than one little rain/hail storm that went thru for a couple hours.

They are both about the same honestly. I feel if the 4 mil will pull my fat ass around at 6000 rpms but I'd have to rev the stock stroke more then the piston wear will be no more or less with the 4 mil. If you are going into the motor to do a crank absolutely do a 4 mil. Your new welded crank and bearings will be better than the stock crank you take out of it anyway. As far as wear on components a 4 mil isn't a crazy build its just going to be maybe 10% more HP.

This whole pro circuit debate is nuts to me. This is my opinion. Piss on dynos and their numbers and load or no load. The pro circuit pipes are going to perform poorly compared to other pipes in the real world with the serval. The hotter the exhaust gasses the higher rpm the motor will peak, the cooler the pipe the lower rpm range the motor will peak. I see no problems with those different dyno runs showing 500 rpm different peaks, one may have a .012 base gasket and one may have a .018 or .022 gasket and of course the higher cyl will peak higher and the one with HOTTER exhaust, more load or a fully warmed up HOT pipe will peak higher. I think the peak RPM tells the whole story. The cooler pipe LOOKS like a winner on the dyno but things change when the pipe gets up to operating/riding temperature. If you see a dyno run with the exact same pipe and the exact cylinder or base gasket the higher rpm one had hotter exhaust gasses. The pro circuits will look great in a pull or two on a dyno (and show a lower peak rpm if they are cold) but ride for a few minutes with a 200lb+ rider especially on sand and the power will fall off. The leaner or hotter they get the worse they will run. A small volume pipe may also like 5 or 6 degrees of timing to keep heat out of the pipe whereas the CPIs,Shearers can keep the timing in the 3 or 4 degree range and run their best because the pipe actually likes the hotter gasses to keep the velocity of the exhaust up. The reason the larger drag type pipes work on the serval is due to volume of the pipe and stinger diameter. NOT BECAUSE ITS A HIGH RPM PIPE. You are NOT putting a high rpm pipe on a low rpm motor and " Defeating the purpose of the serval" , you are putting a high volume pipe on a motor that can revv fairly high. Could someone build a pipe that works better than all the rest on the serval? More than likely yes.

I think I'm in the high 120 range, dont remember for sure what spot number. Glad yer gonna be close Tim, we'll have a good time. The cops dont mess with ya much up on the hill.

PWKs many times use the same mainjet range on many different motors 350s,397s,421s etc. I think you will find the serval is a motor that will want a little smaller mainjet size than normal as it has a low exhaust port and higher transfers. It wouldnt surprise me if you ended up in the 140-145 mainjet range with 33mm PWKs and CEL needles. Judge if your bike is bogging with that jetting as it is warming up you are probably quite rich at a 155 main. A serval is going to be a fairly hard motor to get to bog.

I don't even know if Koolaid is still alive. I think you guys gave him VD or at least an ear infection in Oct and it killed him. It was wierd campin like 3 miles from you guys and not getting any hail at all and barely got wet. I'll be down again this coming up weekend.

I'll be there with the wife and kids. Doesn't look like ice and 6" of snow like last year. Lol

Honestly a cleanup port runs like an out of the box cub. It's kinda like the "Aggressive dune port" thing. Its more aggressive. Lol

That's really gonna piss off mexicans being compared to michigan like that? There's less violence in mexico.

I've ridden both of their dune ported motors and I think they are both good runners.If you wanted a drag port stock cyl I'd say FAST, I've seen and ridden some really fast stuff Jeff has done.I'm assuming you want to ride it this season and I've seen Jeff take many months to do porting if he's backed up. But sometimes u gotta wait if you want the good stuff. I've heard HJR has quite a bit faster turnaround. Depending on if your cyls need bored ask them about the serval cyl and the cost difference.

Tusk from Rocky mountain atv $46 or a EBC will hold 85hp no problem. The Fast kit is very good and it is better but it would be overkill.

Haha. I work for a shipping company andsee hundreds of tires like that. That's pretty standard for many. Its a pain I know but that's how they come from korea, china or wherever the tires are made and many companys ship them like that. Were your tires any cheaper than Rocky Mountain Atv or Motosports outlet?

These guys are telling you right. Its from detonation. You either are lean in one spot of your jetting or very likely have a poor dome design or squish, airleak or another issue with your new setup. Also we dont call a .040 over setup a "BIG BORE" and if your builder or dealer calls it that run as fast as you can to another builder that knows what he's talking about. Your plugs should never have black oil on them so something is wrong with your jetting and setup.

The serval can be ported into a cubs port timings for $300 and it costs about $100 less so you'd be safe if you wanted to drag only later. IMO if I were duning even 5% of the time I'd absolutely get a serval. A lot of people dont realize that the extra torque of the serval will make up for a few less HP at the strip. Nate McCoy did tons of pipe, dome , carb and porting tests on the dyno with the serval and they make good HP even with smaller carbs and he usually doesnt like inframe CPIs as much as shearers but he got the most torque with CPIs. He did say that T5s were "absolute garbage" on the serval, it did not like T5s at all which is surprising. Torque and HP was down quite a bit and surprisingly what we call DRAG pipes made the most useable power. As far as the 33mm carbs I'd keep em but ditch the T5s. Stock carbs on the 421cc serval and made 84hp If I remember right. Thats a pretty stout motor for stock carbs. LOL

Awesome, LED lightbars are expensive those aren't bad prices. I'm mounting my lightbar on my RZR4 this week. If I think I need bigger and brighter I'll look you up.

Shearer Small Bores x 2

Pm sent, I sent ya my buds phone number, he will trade ya. His stuff is MINT, chrome durablue axle, all hubs etc only has about 20 passes on it. Billet JJA carrier , hubs and everything for a full setup and is 100% good guy he just doesn't get on here much so I sent ya his cell#. I'll vouch for him no prob. Radar

Carb parts warehous sells okos. They'd probably have what you need.