bbcmudtruck

Perfect gift for that banshee riding ninja! http://cgi.ebay.com/...sQ5fAccessories

Make sure you install your crank seals the correct way, don't put them in backwards. Then when your done, perform a leak down test to make sure everything sealed up the way it should. You would be dam surprised on how many motors fail the leak down test.

The Works shocks are good entry level, and for some do the trick just fine. However after owning both, Works and Elkas, the works do not compare. If your after the best shock for you money then your better off with Elkas by far.

Where are you located?

So whats the updates with these? Are they getting them fixed and figured out?

Kinda, they were from Erin.

Keep the picutures coming! BHQ loves visual stimulation....

Ya Nick, wtf!

If my crank shows up, I'm in.

Not at this point in time. I just bought them new in the box, so I would have to have new in the box price. I'd rather try to trade someone, and if that don't work I'm going to run them until I find some 39s.

If your not going to drag race, a -1 is a ball of fun to ride!

I have brand new in the box 2 35mm pwks. I need 2 39mm pwks.

I'll try to find the year out from the engine vin and post up some pics later today. Whatcha got for trade!

I got two yesterday at the end of the day.

If it matters, I'm not getting them either.

Yes, a lean condition could cause a hole in the piston. What does the plug look like?

Well, I would sell the banshee that doesn't run and put that money towards some nice shocks for the ltr. OR you could sell the one that does run and spend $2500 on building a sweet ass 4mil dune motor. Your going to need about $1500 more for some shocks and $425 for arms though.

I picked up a kx 125 motor from some nieghborhood kids awhile back, with the intentions of making a sweet ass go cart. The motor is supposed to have a new crank in it as well as a new topend. The piston is new, but I have no confirmation on the crank. It had spark when they tore it apart to rebuild it, then when they got it all back together, it no longer has spark. Its all there minus the flywheel cover and a few bolts here and there. I honestly don't know whats wrong with it, I haven't messed with it at all. I have the pipe and radiator to go with it. I'll trade for parts, nothing in particular however I do not need a bunch of stock stuff, unless its really nice.

Hahah, well Locogoto is probably referring to my train wreck of a bike... I've tried about 5 different shock/arm combos over the last three years and none of them have turned out as good as I'd hoped... I sent my rear shock out to get rebuilt about a year ago. I had the guy put Race Tech gold valving in it as well as a Race Tech spring. Its better, but not any where near the $400 bucks I spent on it. I'm currently running the yfz shocks on a +2+1 Wicked front end and like the way it works. I will however be investing into a set of Elkas all the way around my bike as soon as my motor is done. Tyler is right when he says that Elkas are the way to go.

Good seller!

What are you running for an intake? Looks like it is spaced way out from the cylinders. You may have to get some up intakes. They will move everything alot closer to the cylinders. You might need to get some angled pods as well.

Haha, this is one of my favorite posts in the this thread.

I'm here to tell you first hand, the yfz conversion is not a good investment. I have had stock, +2+1, Full YFZ Conversion and now I'm back to +2+1. The yfz arms and spindles suck.... I kept the yfz brakes and added the shocks to my +2+1 suspension and it works great. But as far as adding YFZ arms, I wouldn't invest money into it.

You may notice a little topend, but very little. I say run it.

A light coat of gas friendly rtv will work as well. See how important a leak down test is!