elwilliams13

I have 2 30 OKO, 1 pingel valve, 2 reed spacers,A bunch of jets,Throttle cable. I was looking for 375 for this setup.

For sale are 15Qt of MobilMX2T oil. I will take 75 shipped.

that needle might be rich try running it in the 3rd clip. I ran it there with a similar set up. I just changed from stock main jets to 270's left the rest of the settings in the stock location and it ran crisp over the whole power band.

You'll notice a big diffrence with those pipes. They are a good trail pipe. I would leave the airbox in maybe remove the lid if you slow down around puddles. if you leave the lid on and remove the snorkel you might need to go up 6-8 sizes on your mains if you remove the lid start with a 300 and work up or down from there doing plug checks.

Champion has a light and magnification tool that lets you look down the electrode to see your fuel ring.

Regular NGK BR8ES will do fine. How much compression do you got? Usually if it takes alot of kicks and all else works it may be low compression. If you pinched an o-ring on the install could have compression leaking out of the cylinder.

The carb has to control fuel delivery at all RPM's. If you notice the pilot has a tiny hole, the needle tapers down and the more you open the throttle the more you pull out of the main and it gets thinner letting more fuel get arond it and into the engine. Then when you are at full throttle the needle is almost completely out and you are pulling fuel through the main jet that has the large hole allowing more fuel to flow from the bowls into the motor the diffrent circuits overlap somewhat and even at half throttle the pilot still allows some fuel in it is not the main supplier though. I would jet all circuits as best I could then if you want to ride at 1/4 throttle that's fine because if you need to open her up you won't blow her up.

It works as well as any other temp gauge. The strips fall off once they start getting grit between them and what they are stuck to. There is a good temp gauge install on dunereview.com

The cylinders have to be ported to run the domes if you want max power. I knew a guy that did not port it and ran domes it worked but not to full potential. By adding the plate you are making up for the added stroke by raising your ports up to match.

There was a thread some time ago saying that type f atf is like a 85w type oil. The 75-90w hypoid or 75-140w differential oils are too thick and not made for your tranny don't use them. A good 10w-30 will work. I use shell rotella 5w-40 synthetic and it works well.

Got some boss intake for stock carbs and I have some stock carbs if interested pm me.

My needles are 1 slot richer or move the clip 1 notch down bringing the pointy end up. The guy @ CPW told me that is the needle to run on the banshee after I called.

With the mods in your signature it says you have a dune port, The CPI will complement that type of port job the fatty is not a bad pipe either alot of guys on here run the CPI for dunes if that is what you ride mostly. I had fatty's on my trail bike then went to PT mids.

Do the OKO use the same needles as the 28mm keihin? Mine brought some diffrent needles, N80f is what they are. I run 158 with 52 pilots in mine. We got similar mods but my temps are hotter.

Yeah the CPI and the big carbs with a 4mil would work well if you ride mostly dunes.

No raptor plastics please! :shoothead:

I got the 30's and they work great for me. Most people will tell you to use 35's with a dune port. 32 will be in the middle. 28 is not much over stock and are used when you want to keep some bottom end, Those pro circuit put out some good bottom end also. Some CPI or shearer pipes will also really wake up that dune ported motor.

All the diffrent type of port jobs will tune the engine to operate best in a given range,ie. Dune, aggressive trail, drag, each one is used to complement a riding style. The dune port are more top end focused and the play or woods port wake up the low to midrange all this stuff along with your pipes, reeds, carbs will deliver power more efficiently for whatever type of riding you wish to do. There are alot of knowledgeable people on this forum they should chime in sooner or later. You can always contact one of the builders on here and talk to them, remember not all ports are going to be identical. One guys dune port maybe another guys drag port. Just keep that stuff in mind.

There was a discussion on it a while back, works good I use it. Never had an overheat with it. Someone was saying that straight water removes heat alot better though.

Well I have my head off at this moment. What can I do with that?

Supposing the ratios I was given are correct what type of fuels would work with these set ups? I will do more testing and measuring but just want to know what ratios to shoot for for pump fuel or race fuel. I got a couple of domes in the garage if I need them.

I got the ratios from my builder. It is a 4mil 64.5mm bore, 21cc stroker domes, -2mm deck, .0035" piston clearance and 186deg duration. He gave me ratios for both 21 and 24cc domes as posted previously. I run +4 timing, air temp is 80 to 95 degrees high humidity at sea level.

I got a coolhead with 24cc on a 4 mil my ratio is at about 6.8:1 with 155 comp. and 8.0:1 with 21cc and 185 comp. I ran the 185 comp on avgas for a short time and did good just wondering how it will do when it gets real hot?

06 banshee for trails another 06 banshee with just pipes for my wife, 05 350 raptor,06 yfz450 for my wife, 06 kawasaki brute force, 83 honda big red, 85 klt 160 3 wheeler, 05 raptor in pieces. I think I have a problem

There you are straight from the catalog! :smile: I used it with 190 comp and it worked awesome.