BdBanshee

I always just remove the cotter key, loosen the nut until it is even with the end of the ball joint threads, and whack it with a hammer a couple of times.

You can almost get the head shaved and timing adanced for that, definetely the most bang for the buck.

I drive a 01 Dodge 2500 4x4 with the Cummins I bought this truck to tow my Toyhauler, works great.

I make mine out of chrome exhaust tips you buy at an auto parts store.

That sucks! I can't help but think something was still not adjusted correctly. I have had my Banshee apart many times in the over 15 years I have been riding it, and have never had any problems with the clutch rod & ball. I still have the original parts in mine. When I put my clutch back together I loosen the cable at the perch. Then I adjust the pressure plate Screw to 1/4 to 1/2 turn out from light contact. This has worked great for me.

That is the key to getting the best height with your stock equipment, landing on a downslope. It also makes for a much more forgiving landing if you aren't in the correct position!

I have a MSR Raptor clutch assy. on mine, works fine. I got the standard because with heavy duty clutch springs it gives me more leverage. The standard is quite a bit shorter than the stock lever too. Mine has held up well, I have had it on for a couple of years and finally had to make a new bushing for it where the bolt holds it on. It was getting a bit loose.

Yes you should advance the timing, and yes it will help throttle response.

Sorry to hear you are getting rid of it. I bet after riding the utility quad for awhile you will miss the thrill of Banshee.

Most people use a 32:1 gas/oil ratio. That's 4 oz. of oil to a gallon of fuel, or 20 oz. to 5 gallons of fuel. Yes, using just water in the radiator can hurt, if it freezes. Use a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and distilled water.

No, it won't hurt a thing. Spray a little rust preventative on after your done also.

The spacer is probably messed up on the end. You could take the old spacer and your axle carrier to a machinist and have him make you a new one out of a piece of pipe. I have made them before and it only takes a few minutes.

Most people order a new cable from the thumb throttle all the way down to the carbs, this is the easiest way. It is a pretty easy job to change the carbs, but you will either need larger intake manifolds, or put the stockers in hot water to allow them to stretch over the larger carbs. It would be better to get new manifolds because stretching them will make them wear out faster, I have a few sets on the shelf to prove it. Several friends of mine have had good luck with the UPP manifolds.

It attaches on the end of the shift drum. You will have to remove the clutch basket to get to it. Modifying it will allow you to shift gears a little easier. If you have it done make sure you also get the backcut neutral mod, makes finding neutral easier.

NGK B8ES

That piece is covering up a hole going into the tranny. The RZ (Motorcycle our motor is based on) had a neutral indicator that went in there.

1. The Coolhead is a good product and will move your powerband down lower, basically the power comes on sooner. A properly milled head does exactly the same thing, only a lot cheaper. You can change out the domes on a Coolhead down the road if you want to, but most people never do. Either way it is about a +2.5 HP mod. Coolhead $250, milled head $35. 2. To adjust the timing you can either modify your stock timing plate, or buy an adjustable plate. I would stay away from degree keys if I were you, many people have had problems with them. Not everybody, but enough to warrant concern. This mod is good for +2.1 HP at +4 degees advance. 3. I don't have an opinion on the tires.............

I usually put #30 pilot jets in Banshees with pipes, and #35 pilots if they are ported also, or sometimes just with clamp ons and pipes. This is with the stock carbs. It's not an exact science but it should get you close.

Before you take the lid off and ride it, make sure you either have a Noss/Prodesign type of filter plate that bolts to the airbox, or your stock plate bolted to the airbox. Otherwise you will be doing a top end job very soon.

I have a set of the FMF Ram Valves, and you just install them like the stock cages. I don't even know if they made any difference, I put them in when I installed my pipes back in 1988!

We should rename this post, "As the HQ turns".....................

Ouch!

The reason the 1987 & 1988 came with the 13 tooth front is they had 22" rear balloon tires. I bought my 1988 Banshee new so I can verify that those tires sucked, and it did come with a 13.

I don't think trick posts that take you somewhere besides where you thought you were going should be tolerated. I personally think it just takes up space and slows down my browsing this site.

Stock gearing from 1989 until present is 14/41 1987 & 1988 were 13/42