BdBanshee

If it strips the sprocket hub, I believe you won't be going anywhere! The hub shoulb be softer than the axle, so it will strip first.

That's a good deal guys, last much longer than cheap bushings too.

It's new a-arm time!

If the ball joint is built into the arm like the Banshee, then don't do it. There is a plastic socket around the ball joint that will get ruined by the heat.

Adjustment is the same as when it's stock.

If you are talking about the ones that hold the spring on the rear shock, you need to use a spring compressor.

Two teeth on the front is a big jump, but if you don't like it you can try a 14.

Took the words out of my mouth...............

Here's one that works good, and it's free. http://www.dvdshrink.org/ You can get rid of menus, credits and extra audio tracks and subtitles if you don't want to compress the main title as much.

I used to have dual rate w/rezzies, now have triple rate w/rezzies & +2 +1 arms. It's much better now but hard to tell what it would be like without the new arms. Seems like you can't feel the little stuff anymore.

Good info, nice job too.

Man that is unreal!

So the Hinson pressure plate was too thick? I have the Hinson basket but the inner hub and pressure plate are still stock, no problems here yet.................

That's what I would recommend for most people also. I am running plus +5 too.

The Ricky Stator flywheels are made to different specs, I do not have the specs to machine Ricky Stator flywheels, but I think Boon does.

I think most people run 32:1, some run 40:1. Yamalube works fine, or there are many other great oils you could use.

I think for silencers with new packing, the CPI inframes are the loudest I have heard.

I knew somebody had the right info.

Heres a pic of a friend of mine on China Wall at Glamis.

It's been awhile since I removed mine, but I think there is a threaded piece (nut threaded on the outside) that holds the bearing into the frame. You can use a hammer and punch to loosen it or, there were some pics in a post awhile back of a tool that you can make. I think the nut that holds the bearing in has a hex shaped hole in the middle.

I have an 01 Dodge 4x4 with the auto, pulling my 33' Toyhauler to Glamis and back the tranny started slipping. Got a DTT tranny and all is well now As for mileage it gets 16 around town, and from 18 to slightly over 20 on the highway. Has plenty of power to pull grades with the toyhauler, and I only have a 65HP Edge box. The motor is awesome, the chassis will fall apart long before the motor wears out.

I bored out a set of lower a-arm ball joints once, and modified a set of thread in Warrior ball joints to press in them. I still have the a-arms and they worked great for years, no problems. That's what happens when you have your stock arms powdercoated

I haven't looked at the stock shock bushing. I have made new bushings for my Works shocks before, pretty simple. Any machinist should be able to fix you up pretty easy.

They need to both be exactly the same size. Only a machinist can do that for you.

1987-1990 had the front top J-arms, and also a different spindle/front caliper 1989-1990 had the large rear hubs Most everything else from all models will interchange, with the exeption of some electrical plugs