bonbon

Yeah the dunes are good all summer long. Doesn't ever really get too hot and has some mild nights. They are about 30 miles north of Rock Springs. There is 23 miles of usually rough dirt road though that stops a lot of people from going out there so it usually isn't crowded at all. About 15,000 acres of rideable dunes however they aren't as large as say Little Sahara in Utah or St. Anthony. Still a hell of a lot of fun though. There are are few 100-200 ft tall ones but mostly smaller.

I think it is a piece of radiator hose. It came with the pipes when I bought them. No clamps and it hasn't leaked yet. Ran them like that on my cub for a year.

I'll take one of each XL

Here are a few pics of the finished product. Just have to pick up some zip ties and finish tying some shit up. Other than that she is ready to ride! Yeah I know the plastics are all scratched up and stressed. It's a combo of the toolbox in my truck and a few to many endos at the dunes. I've never been much for looks. Maybe next winter will be the time to tear down and make it all shiny. I also need to find some shocks valved for the wider arms. Either going to drop the coin on some new elkas this summer or hopefully find a set for sale. I can't get these re-valved, I have to ride!!!

No it is a OEM unit. And I figured the damned thing out!!!!!!!!!!!! My multimeter was bitching out and not working right, borrowed another, stator tests out. So I know it's my harness. For some reason I thought the run switch circuit was complete to run, but it is supposed to be open. I had it grounded out since I eliminated the switch. Cut the wire, put the harness back on and success!!!! Purrs like a kitten. A big ole cheetah kitten!

Right now I'm having issues getting this shit tested. My multimeter is not wanting to cooperate. It won't give me any sort of reading like the leads aren't even touching anything.

I have power in the yellow/red wire coming off of the stator but I have nothing coming out of the wires that go to the CDI. Does this mean I have a bad stator? It worked perfectly when I tore the bike down, and I don't see why these 4 wires would not have power but the yellow wire for the lights does. Any help is good Jon

Well I got my motor all back in the frame and ready to fire it up and I have no spark. I think I may have fucked up my harness when I cut it down. I'll keep trying to figure this one out but I could use a new one really quick. It has to be new enough to fit the plugs on a 2003 banshee.

No over ride, maybe a duneable next year. Hell yeah I can't wait. Hopefully the rain holds off here and I can get out to the dunes later today or tomorrow.

Not when I put it together in my basement.........I think you just have a foot fetish. I didn't even notice it was in there. Yeah I just tossed the crank in and took a pic. I still had to put the seals on. It has a maxload also on the output side of the crank and they come with a full circlip so I didn't need to use that one. I hope it's a wheelie king, I love riding beside someone about 40mph then looking at them and then I just wheelie away from em!

Well I got my crank today and after a couple hours of working on it I am ready for a clutch cover and then to put this baby in the frame! I should have it fired sometime tomorrow afternoon. And here are a couple pics of the roller it's all going in to. I've added some +2+1 Lonestar arms up front, a +4 out back that I've had laying around for about a year, and some new tires. The rears are 22x11x10 10 paddles and the front are Skat Trak Mohawks. Hopefully I didn't over paddle it, I would like some 9 paddles (I like to spin when I'm climbing) but these were just too good of a deal to pass up. I think I shouldn't have much of a problem blowing them off of the line. And thanks to Jeff for the cheetah kit and case work.

Blah blah blah who gives a fuck. I'm tired of hearing people bitch about this shit all the time. If you want it changed then become a politician and get in a position where you have the power to actually change something. Until then you can't really do much about it.

That would make them 34mm PJ's

Sorry I meant the engine side of the carb, the smaller side.

Why is just the right cylinder ported?

I'm thinking he said he paid $1040 for the fatty's. If so he got majorly ripped off. On that note, most people will not be looking to trade for them. Good luck

Measure between the inside edges of the bore on the intake side of the carb. That will give you the size.

Tards these days.

Looks right on to me.

Ding ding winner! I agree there. And that burger in your sig looks fucking good....minus the mayo. (No I don't have the munchies)

This sucks for all you guys. I would just get my money back and go another route if I were you. I got lucky and mine showed up a week after I paid. I thought it was a great deal and seller until I heard about all this shit. Good luck.

I don't think that lock nut will work. Durablue's push against a circlip you place on the axle. If it's for a stock axle it just threads on. Won't work.

They look like 34mm Mikuni TM Flatslides. Exactly what I have. Mine are bored to 35.5mm though. Measure your intake side of the carb and you'll know the size. Good find for 50 bones.

Hey Tate let me know if you still need some stock carbs. I can get you a pretty good deal on some :thumbsup:

Agreed. Clearer pictures help out a lot. If your using a digital camera it should have a macro setting. Turn it on and take them again, should clear up the close ups. I think that is a fair price for the cylinders. You'll get them sold. Bump for ya.