sleeper06

After you ride the bike and get it up to temp does it idle real low at a complete stop . Every motor is diffrent I don't concern myself with what everyone else runs . Once an engine is ported reed selection, needle diameter,pilot selection play a huge role. I just jetted a ported bike and ended up with a 35 pilot on a mild port . Have u tried putting stick needles back in it . Something that sticks out to me is no needle adjustment helps so that leads me to beleive wrong needle for your motor . I'll look at your plug chop pic now

Does the noise change when you pull the clutch, did you overheat or anything run it outta fuel . Usually collapsed piston skirts will cause a noise on decel

If the wires are nicked up coat them with liquid electrical tape . You can even coat cracks in the oem epoxy to protect from moisture on the windings

I've also seen problems with aftermarket stainless bolt kits . The nylocks tend to cock the nut and maul the threads and not allow the the motor to be tightened properly . Stock hardware is allways the best in these areas

I've see lockout bolts come loose before , usually I only see the aftermath of problems. After checking the cranks they were outta true a considerable amount. Anyone who has a crank stand set up can also check tranny shafts and pushrod inside shaft . I have seen harmonic issues in pushrods before. Maybe that translated into the lockup assembly's . Just speculation but something to think about I also have a setup to check cranks while still inframe

Where are u located

Do u know how to read the timing marks on the ground steap, are you using a cel needle, if so might wanna try a series needle taper it's longer than a c. With 35 s I liked the dek needle on the last two cubs I built send me your cell number I wanna send u a pic of some literature I have . And no I wouldn't run more timing unless the plugs tell me too

Zilla is 100% correct, problems with most banshee owners is they look at prices on eBay and figure hey not so bad . When it comes to tearing it down an inspection of parts is when you realize all the little supporting stuff that makes a reliable build. There is a lot of little things that add up on top of the big ticket items I could def build a competitive stock cylinder 4 mil for 3 g that would have power characteristics of a serval. Most porting can be saved and reworked you really have to take the plunge and send it for inspection and opinions

10 mil 5500 range easy

Do you have any good engine parts to start with , you can build a nice 4 mill stock cylinder for 2500-3000 depending on the state of your existing parts

I don't think it's your timing, if your trying to get rid of a hesitation with timing I think your in dangerous waters on pump fuel . Do you know your done characteristics, compression? What pipes and carbs are you using? I've built many Cubs and even a few on pump and never had an issue even tho i would never recommend pump fuel on a cub. I've never ran more than +2 on the plate I think you'll gain more from needle selection

Big weave the best knowledge is gained tools in hand , intended use of cylinders is allways a starting point that will depict sizes and volumes of ports . Everyone has there own style and hand work, better tools better job. You can overthink things on paper very easily I've seen very well thought out cylinders still run like shit , a few adjustments and they scream without adjusting a single port timing. Some people like to do the math , I like spinning on a degree wheel for final timings. I will rough cut everything within a mm of where I think it should be , bore/hone, degree wheel and finish you can't give metal back

What's your uccr& static compression , is it ported

Depending on dome configuration and set up I wouldn't even run +4 , I've seen them detonate at @+4 , backed it down to +1 and it was fine. IMO work it out with needle selection and jetting or use better fuel pump fuel sucks

165 main 50 pilot cel needle 4 th clip

27.5 pilots 290-300 mains toomey needle 4th clip

Did u assemble motor or cam did it

Check for air leaks , it's been very hard pressed for me to find good mating surfaces that don't need sealer , 8-10 yrs ago no problem lately everything I open up is haggered

The gasket also sits the cover out .020 or so I've seen people use no gasket and the water pump was grinding on the cover

Gap plugs to .020 with proper feeler guage, also pick up gap at .018-.020 with feeler guage. Take multi meter turn dial to horseshoe symbol go plug boot to plug boot you should get nothing higher than 7.5kohm. If you get an OL reading unscrew plug boots off wire and go wire to wire looking for same reading. Check continuity between motor and frame, make sure where coil mounts to frame is clean as well as the poles of the coil where bolts go through from what you explaining it sounds like a coil or stator issue

Those look like a/s pwk ,

Good pickup deadbeat if not properly capped, airleak and a big one

Do s leakdown and save your build. Get back with results,

Lol if it's built rite and good base tune it will be fine

IMO don't open it unless you have to , pressure test, compression test, if all is well with those run that shit. When it starts loosing compression about 5lbs pop it and re ring it